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Reversible Glue Joint Router Bit

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Forum topic by Kevin posted 01-25-2010 10:10 PM 1827 views 0 times favorited 3 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Kevin

462 posts in 2665 days


01-25-2010 10:10 PM

Topic tags/keywords: router bit wood

Just got a new router bit for Christmas and now starting to use it some. Anybody have anything such as pros/cons when using this bit? My main conern is I may not be able to make a template since some of the woods won’t be exactly 3/4 or 7/8” thick and from the looks of it this thing has to be precise.

Thanks,

Kevin

-- Williamsburg, KY


3 replies so far

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8523 posts in 3108 days


#1 posted 01-25-2010 10:20 PM

from what I understand this should work for whatever thickness lumber you are working on, as long as each board is routed opposite to the first one. all you need to get is a mirror image on the profile of each board. not really a perfect match to the router bit itself.

but I could be mistaken, as I have never actually used on of those. :)

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View JJohnston's profile

JJohnston

1614 posts in 2751 days


#2 posted 01-25-2010 10:38 PM

Your wood just has to be no thicker than the height of the cutting part of the bit. For any thickness, the bit has to be centered, height-wise, on that thickness.

Make sure you cut some test pieces of the same thickness as your workpieces so you can get the height just right. You’ll get “stair step” if it’s off. The adjustment is half the amount of step.

Since you’re removing material from the entire edge, you’ll need an offset outfeed fence. For the same reason, if the height needs adjustment, you can’t just cut the joint again on the same edge – you have to rip off the bad joint (just back to a straight edge) and cut it fresh.

The joint will be more obvious to the eye on the ends of the panel than a straight butt joint, especially if the glue and the wood are different colors.

As you lay out your panel pieces, label them “U” and “D” for up and down on each side of each joint, so you’ll know which one to turn face down.

-- "A man may conduct himself well in both adversity and good fortune, but if you want to test his character, give him power." - Abraham Lincoln

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Kevin

462 posts in 2665 days


#3 posted 01-25-2010 11:08 PM

Thanks guys. From the 3/4” material that i’ve used so far it’s taken me 3x to get a flush joint on the faces of the board. The 2nd try was really close at probably 1/32 difference.

I guess if i’ll be using this to join the boards (which I don’t know how it will look on the cross grain or not) is to joint/plan my boards all at once to desired thickness and then take a extra piece to test it out on before routing the edges to join.

Thanks guys,

Kevin

-- Williamsburg, KY

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