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Forum topic by bigike posted 01-24-2010 06:42 AM 900 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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bigike

4049 posts in 2749 days


01-24-2010 06:42 AM

Topic tags/keywords: vaneer glue ply

I need to know what type of glue is the best for vaneer? I have a couple pieces of plywood and i want to put some vaneer on it but I saw a vid. somewheres about water content in the glue being a problem? I was just wondering if I would have that problem if i use either titebont or plastic resin glues, i’am goin to put the vaneer on both sides.

-- Ike, Big Daddies Woodshop, http://www.icombadaniels@yahoo.com


5 replies so far

View rhett's profile

rhett

734 posts in 3128 days


#1 posted 01-24-2010 03:00 PM

They make special veneer glue that has a thickening agent in it to keep it from bleeding through and a bit of color so any parts that may seep will blend. This is an excellent resource for all things veneer.
http://www.joewoodworker.com/
Regular titebond will work just fine though. How large of a surface are you laying up? Proper glue up will be what makes or breaks a good veneer job.

-- Doubt kills more dreams than failure.

View Dan Lyke's profile

Dan Lyke

1510 posts in 3585 days


#2 posted 01-24-2010 05:26 PM

I’ve used Titebond II with the iron-on method as described here (respect the Titebond II and III working windows).

Had a bit of an issue in that the veneer (white oak, in my case) did change size when I ironed it on, which meant my veneer to veneer joints had a slight gap, and, as weirdly, the veneer tried to pull itself apart a bit, so the grain became more open, so I had to fill the gaps with cyanoacrylate and sanding dust. But that piece has made it from the dry season well into the rainy season and the veneer is still very firmly attached.

I tried a number of things for even glue coverage, including the old hacksaw blade I saw recommended on one forum, a disposable foam brush worked best.

Oh, and whatever you do: Do not use contact cement. Period. It’s too flexible and lets the veneer crawl and creep with changing humidity.

-- Dan Lyke, Petaluma California, http://www.flutterby.net/User:DanLyke

View rwyoung's profile

rwyoung

388 posts in 2932 days


#3 posted 01-24-2010 07:07 PM

If you are concerned with the glue causing the veneer to curl (and will, try wetting one side of a sheet of paper and watch it curl up) then use hide glue and a veneer hammer. You coat BOTH sides of the veneer in glue (a bit less for the show surface though) and press it in place with the veneer hammer. Think of a veneer hammer as a squeegie, not a mallet. The excess glue is removed and once dry and lightly scraped or sanded to remove the last of the excess, hide glue does not generally interfere with oil based finishes. Obviously test your finish and veneer combination on a scrap piece first. Same finishing advice you always get…

By coating both sides, you equalize the moisture content of the veneer and hot hide glue sets pretty quick so you can get the piece pressed down and the excess removed and never need a clamp. Works pretty slick on flat surfaces. Curved surfaces can be a bit more troublesome and I’ve not had terrible good luck with them.

Otherwise use one of the resin glues. PVA glue will work but can exhibit a lot of creep allowing the veneer to move over time. Hide glue and the 2-part formaldehyde resin glues don’t creep.

Also, veneer both sides of any flat panel. Even plywood. Ideally you would use the same species on both sides to keep the substrate balanced. But for a non-show surface that can be a little expensive. An alternative is to use the fancy burl or showy veneer on the “good” side and a less expensive rotary cut of the same species on the non-show surface.

Best of luck and have fun with your project.

-- Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things.

View Ger21's profile

Ger21

1047 posts in 2591 days


#4 posted 01-24-2010 07:19 PM

I use Titebond Cold Press Veneer Glue. But unless the part is small, you better have some type of press, or you’ll have trouble. You need a lot of even pressure to apply the veneer.

-- Gerry, http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/index.html http://www.jointcam.com

View Dan Lyke's profile

Dan Lyke

1510 posts in 3585 days


#5 posted 01-24-2010 07:29 PM

The ironing method does get you away from needing the press…

Although I suppose if I do it again I should see what sort of dry heat sensitive adhesives there are (like you’d use in a dry mount press or similar). That way I do away with the whole “wetting the veneer” problem.

-- Dan Lyke, Petaluma California, http://www.flutterby.net/User:DanLyke

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