Pneumatic staple divots

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Forum topic by willhime posted 01-08-2016 07:18 PM 481 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View willhime's profile


81 posts in 961 days

01-08-2016 07:18 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question tip trick finishing

Is there a technique I’m missing when using an air-stapler on finished pieces ? Is that just a ‘no-no’ in general ? I figured I’d just fill in the divots with either paint, or wood filler, then sand and go from there. Which sounded good in theory, but of course didn’t work out like that. I use a Senco SLS-150-Mg.

-- Burn your fire for no witness

5 replies so far

View ChrisK's profile


1794 posts in 2503 days

#1 posted 01-08-2016 07:52 PM

Make sure the the stapler is setting the staple below the surface. My porter-cable has an adjustment for the depth. Also make sure the air pressure is high enough to set the staple, 80 psi should do it.

-- Chris K

View willhime's profile


81 posts in 961 days

#2 posted 01-14-2016 07:46 PM

below the surface is actually my problem… the staples go in, then countersink about a 1/16” from the surface leaving those pot holes..

Unless I understood the reply wrong..which is very possible, lol

-- Burn your fire for no witness

View SirIrb's profile


1239 posts in 652 days

#3 posted 01-14-2016 08:09 PM

shoot them sub flush and with the grain. that way the filler looks like it is grain. works better with red oak than pine. We always ran our senco guns at 100psi.

-- Don't blame me, I voted for no one.

View builtinbkyn's profile


650 posts in 362 days

#4 posted 01-14-2016 08:24 PM

Bondo. If it’s going to be painted, Bondo makes a product for wood that will not shrink.

-- Bill, Yo! Brooklyn :)

View runswithscissors's profile


2127 posts in 1447 days

#5 posted 01-14-2016 10:02 PM

Maybe use brads rather than staples?

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

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