Miter Saw Kickback

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Forum topic by ChunkyC posted 01-23-2010 11:39 PM 9747 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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856 posts in 3252 days

01-23-2010 11:39 PM

Topic tags/keywords: miter saw

Well I had the bajesus scared out of me today in the shop. I was making drawer pulls from a long piece of stock that I shaped to suit and was cutting them to length at a 20 degree miter. I was down to about 5-6 inch piece left and was cutting the last one when the saw picked it up tossed it about the shop.

Here was the steps that I was taking to cutting the pulls the length:
1) Swing the saw to left 20 degrees
2) Cut the bitter end
3) Swing the saw to right 20 degrees
4) Slide the piece up against the stop block
5) Cut
6) Wait for the blade to stop and pull the piece out.
Wash, rinse and repeat.

Was cutting the 20 degree miter on one end – step 2, holding the stock against the fence with one hand. I was using the saw in a “chopping” motion verses using the sliding feature of the saw when it happened.

Now I’ve had the miter saw toss pieces about the shop when they get trapped between the blade and a stop block when you raise the saw without waiting for it stop. Actually I think I do this way to often, lol but having the saw yank a piece out of my hand and toss it about 3 walls and the ceiling was a first that I can remember. Something that I won’t be forgetting anytime soon either!

Any thoughts on what I was doing wrong? The good thing is that the CSMS kicks back away from you.

As always, thanks for your help.

-- Chunk's Workshop pictures:

12 replies so far

View Chris 's profile


1879 posts in 3989 days

#1 posted 01-24-2010 12:17 AM

That was why I got rid of my Radial arm saw… The kick back danger / risk was way to high for my liking.

-- "Everything that is great and inspiring is created by the individual who labors in freedom" -- Albert Einstein

View blackcherry's profile


3338 posts in 3821 days

#2 posted 01-24-2010 04:54 AM

It amazing how fast these thing can happen and how fast the heart rate can go UPPPPPPPPPPPPP! We all are playing with loaded weapon. I’m glad you came away unharmed and thanks for sharing your experience with all here at the site.

View reggiek's profile


2240 posts in 3268 days

#3 posted 01-24-2010 05:18 AM

It doesn’t look to me that you were doing anything dangerous…You might want to check your blade…..when they get dull, they have a tendency to kick back more often…it also has to do with the type of wood and the blade (TPI) you are using….I switched to a Forrest Chopmaster on mine (expensive as all get out) but worth it as I don’t remember having any kick backs since I switched the blade.

-- Woodworking.....My small slice of heaven!

View a1Jim's profile


117091 posts in 3575 days

#4 posted 01-24-2010 05:24 AM

95% percent of miter saw kick back is because your wood is not up against the back fence. and the rest is probably due to wood pinching the blade due to inner tension.

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

View john's profile


2370 posts in 4379 days

#5 posted 01-24-2010 05:36 AM

What Jim said !! :)

-- John in Belgrave (Website) ,

View JasonIndy's profile


187 posts in 3433 days

#6 posted 01-24-2010 09:41 AM

I agree with Jim, the only time I ever had kickback on a miter saw I was foolish and cut a piece that was wayyyy too small and it got away from the fence. It ended up getting thrown all over the place.

View PaulfromVictor's profile


228 posts in 3343 days

#7 posted 01-24-2010 03:36 PM

Ditto. When you cut a small piece there is not enough fence behind it for support. For small pieces I cut them on the table saw using a sled. With a miter/bevel I would make a zero clearance fence for the miter saw. You can put together a couple lengths of mdf at a 90 degree angle. Clamp that to your saw on both ends and cut through. Not hard to do. The toughest part is finding a spot to put your clamps where they are not in the way of your cut or your workpiece. Plan that ahead of time before building.

View ChunkyC's profile


856 posts in 3252 days

#8 posted 01-24-2010 04:27 PM

Thanks guys. The blade is brand new “Freud LU74R012 12-Inch 96 Tooth ATB Thin Kerf Cut-Off Saw Blade with 1-Inch Arbor and PermaShield Coating”. I’ll watch for small pieces that aren’t tight to the rear fence from now on.

I also use a zero clearance fence system on my miter saw. I don’t like to use it for one reason though. When I have the zcf on the saw, I can’t lock the saw in the down the position. Silly reason really but it’s a habit that I’ve gotten into. It’s like the habit of always lowering the blade on the table saw after every cut.


-- Chunk's Workshop pictures:

View tomfromwinnipeg's profile


60 posts in 3083 days

#9 posted 01-24-2010 05:30 PM

I agree with Jim, the one time this happened to me there was a small peice of scrap between the board and the fence, just enough to cause the kick back.

-- Tom From Winnipeg

View jussdandy's profile


157 posts in 3205 days

#10 posted 01-24-2010 06:44 PM

I ruined a 12” delta, I knew the piece was to small but Hey I can handle it, well I got nervious just b4 the blade hit the wood, Had a btight Idea, I tried to hold the piece with the wood handle of a hammer. What a big bang it made, the wood got in between the guard and the blade, it ruined the blade and the frame of the miter saw actually broke, still have the saw no longer use it, I can get parts to fix it.

-- Randy I have the right to remain silent, just not the ability ; )

View ChunkyC's profile


856 posts in 3252 days

#11 posted 01-24-2010 08:26 PM

Now that’s some impressive kickback when it breaks the miter saw frame. I assumed you came out of no worse for the wear?

-- Chunk's Workshop pictures:

View jussdandy's profile


157 posts in 3205 days

#12 posted 01-25-2010 04:27 AM

no injury just scared the beegeebers out of me, and ment to say can’t get parts to fix, maybe sometime this week Ill pull it out and take a pic of the damage

-- Randy I have the right to remain silent, just not the ability ; )

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