borrowed scraper plane idea

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Forum topic by luthierwnc posted 01-07-2016 12:56 PM 947 views 1 time favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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146 posts in 1745 days

01-07-2016 12:56 PM

Hi All,

This is a scraper plane I made from A Fulton 3710 chosen because it has the wide frog receiver from older Bailey styles. I borrowed liberally from (and didn’t execute it as well) as this UK example:

My ability to machine metal is more limited so I soldered two pieces of 1/4” brass plate for the frog with a 15 degree forward pitch. To cut the mortise on the front plate I made a router jig to fit a 3/8” pattern to fit my main router with a 1/4” upcut carbide bit. It cuts like butter. One difference in the UK version is that the fillister screw holes are elongated so I can effectively open and close the mouth. As I’ll explain later, that was not necessary.

The iron is a piece of 1/8” X 2” O1 steel I had in the steel bucket. No fancy machining here: I just drilled the holes, Dremelled between them did a lot of filing. The iron was oil-hardened using a torch. Safety and marriage-counselling tip for those new to oil-quenching: do it outside! The blade pitch is 45 degrees. I’ll round the corners and may draw the burr depending on how beta-testing goes but it works pretty well as is. A depth adjustment like a spoke-shave would be an improvement. For trials I laid it on the bench, slid a piece of card stock under the nose and dropped the blade until it stopped.

Back to the mouth: the nut restricts shavings getting out of the plane. I can thin it a little but may need to remove some iron off the front cross-bolster for better flow. Barring that, no planes were harmed in this experiment. You can tear this off and put the plane stock in a few minutes—no need to even remove the iron. You could also make alternative frogs with different pitches. My plywood crash dummies are in the exploded picture.

If anyone is inspired, read the UK page first. That gentleman deserves the credit. Here’s a list of the parts I used:

1 shoulder bolt Mcmaster Carr 97345A245
2 Fillister screws 10-24 3/4” (shortened) 91794A245
box 10-24 SS washers 92141A011
2 thumbscrews (also shortened) 93585A035
1 SS T-nut (much filed to fit) 90642A359
1 O1 steel (if you don’t have it) 9516K51

FWIW, the precision tool steel bars are very accurate if you need a sturdy straightedge on the cheap. sh

7 replies so far

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

4910 posts in 3930 days

#1 posted 01-07-2016 04:04 PM

Sure looks good to me.
Do you get a bit of “bow” in the iron with it being so short?


View luthierwnc's profile


146 posts in 1745 days

#2 posted 01-07-2016 06:01 PM

No … and that’s something I’ll need to tune. Right now the cutter is dead straight so it leaves edge marks. I started that way just to see if everything would stay where it is bolted. It did.

I think the next thing I have to do is keep the shavings from forming a wad under the nut. I’d hoped to leave the cast iron alone but the crossbar is just too close to the forward-leaning iron. It’s losing 60 degrees of open space and the waste forms there like dryer lint.

Then I’ll get around to shaping the cuts. I think putting a little camber will work and I’ll round-over the edges if I need less bite. At 1/8” it isn’t going to bend. So far so good but I’m not there yet. sh

View Don W's profile

Don W

18686 posts in 2537 days

#3 posted 01-07-2016 09:14 PM

Nice idea. I may need to try this.

-- - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

View luthierwnc's profile


146 posts in 1745 days

#4 posted 01-18-2016 05:02 PM

Removing the X-bar was what it took. Attached is a picture of the strut hogged away. I’ll clean that up and probably repaint the whole thing but first I wanted to check the shaving clearance. I also rounded the edge of the mouth on the toe-side since it was pretty steep. The iron now has slightly rounded edges which keeps them from digging and leaving lines. The shavings are fluffy and not continuous like a plane but it made an ash board very smooth to the touch. I’m happy.

Again, I was hoping to keep the plane bone-stock but this does work and will give new life to one of many forgotten hand planes. The secondary market brands are also the ones that kept the flat frog seat so they are the likely candidates both for practical and cost considerations. The little thumbscrews designed to help hold the iron in place can also be used to increase the forward pitch if you set them before tightening the main thumbscrew. Since there is no depth adjustment, I just lay it flat on the bench and put a couple sheets of paper under the toe. Then I drop the iron until it hits wood and tighten the screws.

Cheers, sh

View James Wright's profile

James Wright

331 posts in 833 days

#5 posted 01-21-2016 02:11 PM

Nice work. Thanks for the inspiration I might have to try this!

-- James Wright, Rockford IL,

View luthierwnc's profile


146 posts in 1745 days

#6 posted 01-21-2016 03:22 PM

If I do this again, I’ll use a 4 1/2-sized plane and increase the forward pitch to 20 degrees. That’s about the angle I use with my hand scraper and it is also cambered slightly. With some creative belt-sanding I can probably alter the pitch on the brass frog on this guy. It works well as-is but will chatter as the tool gets further from my center of gravity. sh

View luthierwnc's profile


146 posts in 1745 days

#7 posted 03-06-2016 06:45 PM

I finally had a good test for this plane and it worked very well. I’m making a new Roubo/shaker bench and had a bunch of heavy 5/4 oak milled for both the top and legs. The shop must have had a couple nicks on their planer blades because most of the boards have that tell-tale high line running along the grain.

I just clamped the boards to the bench, took a couple passes and they were gone. It took longer to clamp them than to scrape the bump off. No fiddling with the blade at all for the 40 board feet I’ve done so far.

Officially; it turned out to be a worthwhile project. Cheers, Skip

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