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Trouble with hand planer

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Forum topic by IAmSupernova posted 01-03-2016 04:58 PM 788 views 0 times favorited 28 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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IAmSupernova

12 posts in 338 days


01-03-2016 04:58 PM

Topic tags/keywords: planer question

I’ve been trying to fix the issue on my own for a few days now, can’t seem to do it. The obvious answer is get a better one but I got it for a small project I’m doing. Not really worth paying 3x for a good one for. I would like to figure out how to make this one work, it has to be possible.

The first one I had, there was too much play in the blade and the farthest back you could take the adjustment screw it still wouldn’t hold the blade out of the sole (at least later on, right out of the box it did it’s job fine). So I took it back to get a replacement, this one doesn’t really have any play. However it has a different problem.

Now the issue is getting wood caught between the cap iron and the blade. I’ve been reading around trying to fix it and so far I’ve sharpened the blade, filed down the bevel on the front of the cap so it’s perfectly flat but the back side of the bevel does not touch the blade, I’ve given the front a bevel to further reduce the distance between where the blade and cap iron meet in front, I’ve put shims in the back part of the assembly behind the screw so it can get a steeper angle and have even ground down the back of the blade to deal with any leveling issues there. Wood is still going straight in between the blade and the cap iron.

Does anyone have any kind of tip or trick that could stop the wood from being able to enter in between the two?


28 replies so far

View Pezking7p's profile

Pezking7p

3097 posts in 1114 days


#1 posted 01-03-2016 06:28 PM

Do you mean cap iron, or chip breaker? The chip breaker should be completely flat against the blade with no air gaps at all. Not even a small one.

Assuming the above is true, the tighten your chip breaker down as tight as you can, then tighten your cap iron down very tight.

If the problem STILL persists, move the chip breaker back from the edge of the blade a hair, and move the frog back so that there is a little more gap between the blade and the front of the mouth. This will give the shavings more of an opening to avoid jamming in the chip breaker.

If none of this works…a picture or two are worth a thousand words.

-- -Dan

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paratrooper34

891 posts in 2415 days


#2 posted 01-03-2016 06:50 PM



Do you mean cap iron, or chip breaker? The chip breaker should be completely flat against the blade with no air gaps at all. Not even a small one.

Assuming the above is true, the tighten your chip breaker down as tight as you can, then tighten your cap iron down very tight.

If the problem STILL persists, move the chip breaker back from the edge of the blade a hair, and move the frog back so that there is a little more gap between the blade and the front of the mouth. This will give the shavings more of an opening to avoid jamming in the chip breaker.

If none of this works…a picture or two are worth a thousand words.

- Pezking7p

Got to be careful with your advice: Cap Iron and Chipbreaker are two terms that are used for the same part. I assume you are using the term Cap Iron for the Lever Cap.

Supernova, the Cap iron needs to sit flush on the blade ensuring there are no gaps which is what is causing your problem. If it is not flush at the business end when the Cap Iron screw is tight, you can slightly bend them to make it sit flush. Check out youtube for instructions on how to fix your problem; there are lots and lots of videos out there explaining it.

See the pics to see how both Cap Iron and Chipbreaker are used for the same part.

-- Mike

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IAmSupernova

12 posts in 338 days


#3 posted 01-03-2016 07:08 PM

Yeah it’s not the lever cap. It’s the piece that screws to the blade. And best I can tell they are pretty much flush, I’m not sure how I could get it anymore clean but can still kind of see some light behind the point they meet at the right angle. It’s not a visible line like it was before working on it, so I dunno if that is just ambient light coming through the sides or what, I do not see a defined line of it though.

I’ve ground the cap iron away to where it almost sits flat on the blade without the screw tightening it down (there’s only a slight angle and minimal clearance). Could bending the rounded part down a bit more (so more tension is held) fix this issue? I didn’t want to do it because I didn’t know if that would make the problem worse or not. The original state of the cap iron was not very good though, the machining was pretty terrible. It took me grinding away that much material just to get it perfectly flat.

If bending it down is safe to do I’ll try that and see if that helps anything and if not I’ll try to get some pics. I’m not sure I could get any that would help though.

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paratrooper34

891 posts in 2415 days


#4 posted 01-03-2016 07:51 PM

Can you post some pictures?

-- Mike

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IAmSupernova

12 posts in 338 days


#5 posted 01-03-2016 08:16 PM

I don’t have a great camera (just the one on my phone) these were the best I could do. If you need something more specific let me know and I’ll try to get a better one of it.






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IAmSupernova

12 posts in 338 days


#6 posted 01-03-2016 08:19 PM

It shrunk them.

Here are the ones of the front of the blade really zoomed in (if it doesn’t shrink them as well)

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John

166 posts in 1045 days


#7 posted 01-04-2016 02:48 AM

Hiw tight is the blade to the front of the mouth when thr blade is installed and ready for use? You cold try moving the frog back to open the mouth more and see if that helps.

-- I measured once, cut twice, and its still too short...

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John

166 posts in 1045 days


#8 posted 01-04-2016 02:49 AM

Sorry. I see now that pezking beat me to it.

-- I measured once, cut twice, and its still too short...

View Ross's profile

Ross

142 posts in 1436 days


#9 posted 01-04-2016 03:06 AM

Try flattening the back side of the iron as well as the chip breaker. From the photo’s that you posted it’s obvious that the two are not seated to each other properly. Then like paratrooper said, open up the throat a bit by moving the frog back a couple thousanth’s.

-- "Man Plans and God Laughs"

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IAmSupernova

12 posts in 338 days


#10 posted 01-04-2016 03:11 AM

I have flattened the back of the blade, needs to be done more? In the photos the screw isn’t in (didn’t think to put it back in after clearing the stuff out for the pics) I dunno if that would make a difference to the diagnosis or not.

I also don’t think this one has an adjustable frog. It’s just two screws that hold it in place.

View bandit571's profile

bandit571

14571 posts in 2146 days


#11 posted 01-04-2016 03:43 AM

On the right side in the pictures….there is a gap.

Take a oil stone, hold the “top” end of the Chipbreaker lower than the end that is resting on the oil stone.

First off, black sharpie, rub the “flat area” on the chipbreaker. This will help you see where it needs to be tuned a bit.

Keeping the top end low, rub the flat along the oil stone for a few minutes. Check the progress as you go. When all the black is gone…hold the chipbreaker to the iron. Hold the two up towards a bright light. Look for any gap showing up as a bit of light shining through. Work until there is no light showing through.

On some chipbreakers I’ve seen..they are bent. Flip the chipbreaker onto the side that faces out in the plane (upside down) and see IF it will rock. The “hump” part should be flat across at the top of the hump. IF it does rock a bit, turn it over, use a nail set or pin punch and a hammer. Hit right dead center in the hump, you want a “Bullseye” to happen. Flip back over and test for any rocking. THEN, if it doesn’t rock, go to the oil stone part of this reply.

I usually set the chipbreaker back from the edge about a 1/32 to a 1/64th” As for the two bolts holding the frog in place? Loosen them just a bit, then you can slide the frog back as needed. I try to get a flat line straight through. Where the iron will rest on the small ramp like casting in the mouth opening. You can feel with a fingertip when the area is coplanar with the face of the frog. Tighten the bolts back down.

I doubt IF you would need to flatten the back of the iron any more, and, you only need to flatten the area where the chipbreaker would sit, anyway.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

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IAmSupernova

12 posts in 338 days


#12 posted 01-04-2016 04:18 AM

I checked, it’s not rocking on either side I’ll try some more grinding on it tomorrow. What do I do for the tension/space between the flat part of the cap iron and the back of the blade? I’ve taken a lot of material off the lip and it is sitting quite a bit lower than it did originally. Is it safe to slightly bend the front end (such as like right behind the hump) down just a bit to give a bit more clearance? Is that even nessecary?

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bandit571

14571 posts in 2146 days


#13 posted 01-04-2016 04:26 AM

What you are looking for is a “knife edge” where the two meet. Then, when you tighten down the bolt, the thin edge will deform just enough to close any small gap that is left. You don’t have to torque the bolt tight, just enough so the two stay together. And the chipbreaker doesn’t slide back.

Hump shouldn’t getting in the way…it is there to guide shavings up and out of the plane. Maybe back the frog to the rear a bit, sounds like the frog is too far forward.

Usually, I have to bend the hump back into a hump shape on some of the planes I redo. Really don’t need to bend the hump down any.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

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Aj2

690 posts in 1261 days


#14 posted 01-04-2016 04:29 AM

I have a loop that I hold up to my eye when I need to see super small stuff.If I had your problem thats where I would start.You really need to confirm the two are mated perfectly.Keep at it till they are.Also the work needs to be done with flat stones or a surface your using.You Dont need the whole stone to be flat just the area you will work with.a good way to check your stones flatness is your starret square blade.Also check the blade and chip breaker for hump or hollow.
You can do it.

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IAmSupernova

12 posts in 338 days


#15 posted 01-04-2016 05:03 AM

That last bit might’ve actually helped some. Helps me understand what I’m trying to do a bit better. I’ll update after I get results tomorrow.

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