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Masterforce Table Saw for $375

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Forum topic by justjkit posted 01-01-2016 04:25 PM 926 views 0 times favorited 22 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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justjkit

21 posts in 338 days


01-01-2016 04:25 PM

Setting up my first furniture building shop. I’m in need of some expensive items, so I’m trying to budget smart.

I’ll be building dining tables, wall art, chairs, etc. I think the majority of my cuts can be done with a cross miter .. however I want to start using a table saw more than my circular.

I’ve been leaning towards the Rigid which is $430 at depot. I walked through menards today as saw their saw for $375 after rebate.

I’ve read through reviews for the last hour on this saw, the Delta, rigid, grizzly, etc. Each of the reviews I read (and the user comments responding to those reviews) talked about the Masterforce costing $450, not $375. Users said to spend a few more bucks and get something nicer. If the Masterforce didn’t come out to be $375, and I was looking at spending $450-500+, I’d probably step up a couple bucks and go with the Delta or Grizzly.

Question is .. for the $375, is the Masterforce a good saw for the beginning furniture builder? Does the price drop warrant buying this saw or will I really be happier spending the $600 for the Delta or $700 for the grizzly?

Look forward to your thoughts. Thanks

http://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/power-tools-accessories/power-saws-accessories/masterforce-reg-10-in-contractor-table-saw-with-mobile-base/p-1444436497745-c-9082.htm?tid=-8918623762041658135

-- Member intro and shop build: http://lumberjocks.com/topics/137306


22 replies so far

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TheFridge

5764 posts in 947 days


#1 posted 01-01-2016 04:30 PM

Never heard of master force.

Save your pennies. Get somethings better.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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knotscott

7208 posts in 2836 days


#2 posted 01-01-2016 05:44 PM

It depends on whether or not you get a good one. It’ll be subject to the same issues that have plagued the R4512, 21833, Dayton, and G0715P. Check Menard’s return policy, check that the saw is not plagued with an alignment issue, and be prepared to return it if it’s defective. $375 would be a decent price if it works out, but I’d still take a good look at your local used market first.

Be sure to set aside some funds for a decent blade(s) regardless of which saw you end up with. They start at around $30 for the Italian made Freud Diablo and Irwin Marples blades (not to be confused with the Chinese made Irwin Marathon or Classic series).

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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Tennessee

2410 posts in 1975 days


#3 posted 01-01-2016 05:47 PM

If the issues talked about on the ones listed above pass you by, and you get a good one like I did with my R4512, then that is a heck of a buy. I’m sure Menard’s policy is similar to HD. When I lived in Iowa long time ago I used Menard’s. Always wished they were more in the South.

-- Paul, Tennessee, http://www.tsunamiguitars.com

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Jimbo4

1432 posts in 2224 days


#4 posted 01-01-2016 05:52 PM

I would be hesitant about any Delta equipment – they are in a real bind right now. Also, they do not support anything that is not in their current catalog.

Looking at the web site, the Master Force has sheet metal wings. I’ll probably receive all kinds of remarks, but to do what you want to, and build professional wood items, you should look into a table saw with cast iron wings, as it will be more stable. And, by table saw, I do not mean one of them table top things with direct drive!

-- BOVILEXIA: The urge to moo at cows from a moving vehicle.

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bandit571

14547 posts in 2144 days


#5 posted 01-01-2016 05:55 PM

IF I remember correctly….Masterforce is the house brand name. Menards doesn’t actually make the tools in their brand name, much the same as Sears never made a single tool.

Menards seems to have a set up for their brand name tools to be the best buy for the buck. Other than the colours, these might be a better name brand tool in a green & gray suit.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

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WhyMe

611 posts in 1022 days


#6 posted 01-01-2016 06:05 PM



I would be hesitant about any Delta equipment – they are in a real bind right now. Also, they do not support anything that is not in their current catalog.

- Jimbo4

Sooo… just what real bind is Delta Tools in? I just love these nebulous comments without factual details.

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justjkit

21 posts in 338 days


#7 posted 01-01-2016 06:22 PM

thanks for all the comments. i see the mastefforce is the same as the craftsman and ridgid but for nealy $200 less. i just dont want to be cutting with something that doesnt cut straight or will die out on me. it’s hard not to go buy that $375 saw today. trying to get myself to spend a little more.

If i’m spending $700.. what saws do you recommend? Decent entry level cabinet with belt drive?

-- Member intro and shop build: http://lumberjocks.com/topics/137306

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knotscott

7208 posts in 2836 days


#8 posted 01-01-2016 06:30 PM



...these might be a better name brand tool in a green & gray suit.

- bandit571

Me thinks you’re right…AFAIK, these are made by Dayton for a number of companies.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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WhyMe

611 posts in 1022 days


#9 posted 01-01-2016 07:06 PM



If i m spending $700.. what saws do you recommend? Decent entry level cabinet with belt drive?

- justjkit

You are not going to get a decent new cabinet saw for $700. You can get a hybrid or contractor style. My choice still will be the Delta 36-725 for $600 for that price point of saw.

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justjkit

21 posts in 338 days


#10 posted 01-01-2016 08:56 PM

Appreciate all the advice guys.

I just walked out of Menards with their saw for $265 after tax (I had a $150 store credit i needed to use up).

I’m a bit worried about all the negative feedback on it, but for the price and having the store credit, I had to give it a whirl. My menards has always been excellent at returning things, even months past their return dates, so i figured i’d give it a try.

I think I’ll use the money saved and upgrade the saw a bit. I’m thinking a forrest blade to start.

Can you pros offer any other advice on what I can do to upgrade this masterforce table saw?

Thanks again

-- Member intro and shop build: http://lumberjocks.com/topics/137306

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greenacres2

251 posts in 1629 days


#11 posted 01-01-2016 09:43 PM

Hey Kit—i bought the Craftsman 21833, their version of that saw, 3 years ago (for $330 net after some weird discounts, points, bunch of creative shopping—but that’s a different story). There had been a production run with a serious alignment issue related to blade elevation, but most of what i saw was in the C-man and Ridgid versions and i don’t recall Masterforce complaints as i read the discussions before buying. Still worth reading on the alignment issue so you know what to check for, my c-man was fine. Still stands a nickel on edge, even while cutting.

The factory fence was okay, but i did add an aftermarket fence (Incra) which was a great upgrade—but it would be on a lot of saws. Miter fence was pretty basic, common among many saws, replaced with Kreg miter fence. With a good blade—cuts great with no effort up to 8/4 rips in hardwoods. Originally i bought a pair of Freud blades (glue line and a decent 60 tooth cross-cut) that continue to serve well. For a reasonable price they got me a few years to be patient in watching for the right deal on the “next step” up in blades. About a year ago, i ran across a hobbyist moving from 10” to 12” saw, and bought a pair of WW-2’s (24 and 40 tooth), a pair of Amanas (60 and 80) and an Infinity for like $120—all either new or freshly sharpened by Ridge.

As a hobby woodworker, my 21833 is plenty of saw and very functional. If i run across the right cabinet saw (PM-66, Uni left tilt, Grizzly G0690 or 1023) with 3 hp at the right price (cheap!!)—i’d upgrade. But it would be out of desire, not out of need. If the Masterforce does not suffer from the blade alignment issue—i’d predict you may be happy with it—especially at that price out of pocket!!

earl

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knotscott

7208 posts in 2836 days


#12 posted 01-01-2016 09:51 PM

Congrats on the saw.

A good blade is a great start to the upgrades. If you really want the best performance possible, I’d consider getting a couple of dedicated purpose blades instead of one general purpose type. Forrest is an excellent brand, but is among the more expensive choices….Infinity, Ridge Carbide, Freud Premier, Tenryu Gold Medal are other top shelf choices. Tips for Picking Saw Blades

A good miter gauge is another solid option….Incra, Osborne, Kreg, etc. The basic Incra is ~ $60.

Zero clearance inserts, featherboards, hold downs, etc., are other useful options.

If you want to go off the deep end, maybe an aftermarket fence and/or solid cast iron wings. The Delta T3 and Vega are a couple of the better values in aftermarket fences.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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justjkit

21 posts in 338 days


#13 posted 01-01-2016 11:56 PM

Love the info.

I think a miter gauge and blade set is necessary. If I set this up properly, can this table eliminate the need to use my miter as much as I do now?

What recommendations do you have for a rip and cross cut blade set?

What recommendations do you have for a mid-level miter gauge? Around $100 give or take $20 or so?

What will I gain by adding cast iron wings or fences?

What are my options as to adding a large piece of plywood and afixing it to the table to make my table saw a work bench of some sort? What items would I need to purchase to make this happen?

Thanks again.

-- Member intro and shop build: http://lumberjocks.com/topics/137306

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justjkit

21 posts in 338 days


#14 posted 01-02-2016 12:26 AM

After all the reading, I think a Freud set looks like a good price point. Should I be adding a blade dampener to these blades?

-- Member intro and shop build: http://lumberjocks.com/topics/137306

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

7208 posts in 2836 days


#15 posted 01-02-2016 03:30 AM


After all the reading, I think a Freud set looks like a good price point. Should I be adding a blade dampener to these blades?

- justjkit

No dampeners…they’re a bandaid for other problems IMO, but I do think you’ll get better performance for the same money with two well selected task specific blades than a single premium general purpose blade. Blades are best when proprietary to the task at hand and saw that’ll be used.

A good 24T ripper will loaf through the thickest densest wood you’re likely to encounter. The cut quality will be good, but not polished….their forte is efficient ripping that’ll in thick wood that’ll spare your saw from extra strain. The 60T blades I’ll suggest can make very clean crossuts, will be great in plywood, and can still be used for clean ripping in wood of average thickness. Freud LU88 and LU87 would be great. The Infinity 010-060 and 010-124 may do even better for just a bit more money. If you’d prefer not to spend quite that much, the Freud Diablo D1024x and D1060X are pretty similar…they have less carbide so can’t be sharpened as many times, but the materials, construction and performance will be very similar to the Freud Industrial blades (the comparable Irwin Marples blades would also be great choices for the price).

Once it’s dialed in, your TS should be more accurate than your miter saw…it’s a more robust structure. A good miter gauge, and/or a crosscut sled can all but guarantee it.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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