Dado Dilemma

I am assuming the dado is on the edge of the stiles and rails. I use a lot of 1/4 ply in my projects and when I need to cut a dado so the ply fits just right I set up the table saw with a 1/8 kerf blade. set the fense to the correct spot and run the piece through then flip it end for end and run it trough a second time. If the table saw fense is set correctly you will have a nice fitting dado exactly in the center. This is the method I used on the blanket chest I just posted.

Hope this helps.

-- John, Colorado's (Wooden Wizard)

That is also the way I have done it.

-- Sparks

You could buy the menards chisels (cheap, tool shop) and grind down the 1/4 inch to 3/16 ans hand cut the mortises.

-- Even a broken clock is right twice a day, unless, it moves at half speed like ....-As the Saw Turns

Cut the dado with your router and a 3/16” bit.

-- Alex

Hey Snowy, You need to check out MLCS and their up cut spiral bits. They go down to a 1/8” in diameter. They were originally designed for pin routing but I like the clean cuts they make for dado’s. Here, take a look.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_solid.html#spiral_up_anchor

-- Methods are many,Principles are few.Methods change often,Principles never do.

Thanks for all the good suggestions folks. After studying this until midnight last night I think I will just double the plywood panel. Couple of reasons for this decision. I cant find 1/4 ply here in town that is actually 1/4 inch. Also, (this is a tall clock project) the plan calls for the good side of the ply to face out, but I think when the door is open, you will be able to see the inside of the clock case, so it would be nice to have a nice finish on the inside too. Also, by doubling the panel width, I can have two good sides, and I can use my dado blade and mortise machine to cut the mortise and tenons. I was thinkiing that a 3/16 tenon isnt too thick anyway, and a thicker tenon probably would be a bit stronger.

I was looking at my mortise chisels and if I bought a cheep chisel, I dont know that I could grind it down 1/16 inch without compromising the chisel. I think a router would work, probably best if I had a router table, but I think it would be difficult to clamp the stiles down and get the dado straight since the stiles are only
1 1/4 inchs wide.

Good forum…thanks for the help.

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

Wayne,

This sounds like a perfect application for hardwood panels. You can mill them to exactly 1/4” and have beautiful grain on both sides. If you are concerned about expansion/contraction use Spaceballs to keep the panel centered.

-- Joe.....

I think you are right Joe. I wish I had found this issue before purchasing all of the lumber. I have the ply and boards already so I think I will try to make a go of it with what I have. The ply was about $85 for the sheet so might as well use it at this point. :-)

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

I’ve made narrow dadoes by altering the ‘set’ of the teeth on a conventional table saw blade. It was perfect for a 5/32” slot I needed, I’m sure 3/16” would be attainable this way. I wouldn’t wreck a good blade to do this, though.

-- Einstein: "The intuitive mind is a sacred gift, and the rational mind is a faithful servant. We have created a society that honors the servant and has forgotten the gift." I'm Poopiekat!!