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Delta 36-726 Fence / Union Plate

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Forum topic by LGLDSR73 posted 12-29-2015 01:17 PM 744 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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LGLDSR73

6 posts in 1233 days


12-29-2015 01:17 PM

Topic tags/keywords: delta 36-725 union plate fence

Greetings,

I’ve just been to hell and back assembling a Delta 36-725 table saw. The manual is useless in terms I cannot begin to express. That said, the problem I am having now is:

Adjusting those fence rails was a NIGHTMARE. What a lousy design but after several hours of adjust those rails I now find that when moving the fence from one end of the saw to the other the fence is hitting the bolts that affix the union plate (which joins the two fence rails).

Has anyone run into this problem? Also, since Delta does not reference it in their ‘manual’ (and I use the term loosely) what are the white plastic screws for on either side of the fence?

Many thanks!

UPDATE: I had the union plate on top of the rail, and not underneath. Duh….thanks anyway!


13 replies so far

View hotbyte's profile

hotbyte

844 posts in 2442 days


#1 posted 12-29-2015 01:34 PM

The white plastic screws are to adjust the fence face square to table surface.

View WhyMe's profile

WhyMe

616 posts in 1027 days


#2 posted 12-29-2015 03:58 PM

I don’t see that the instructions are that bad. I had no issues aligning the fence rails. You should read completely through the instructions first before starting assembly. By asking what the white plastic screws are for shows you have not read through the instructions thoroughly. See page 29 for the white plastic adjustment screws. Also the picture Fig.5 of the rail shows what side to mount the plate on.

View Stewbot's profile

Stewbot

195 posts in 550 days


#3 posted 12-29-2015 05:45 PM

YouTube has a couple videos showing the assembly of this saw that seem a bit helpful.

-- Hoopty scoop?

View alittleoff's profile

alittleoff

296 posts in 743 days


#4 posted 12-29-2015 06:01 PM

I’ve bypassed instructions before and everything was fine,. I’ve done it again and everything went wrong that could go wrong. I would imagine that after having a problem and not reading instructions and understanding them it got to be a headache, and kept getting worse. I’ve been there. The two peice rails are, or were no problem to me. I knew that the two peices of metal have to line up perfect for something to slide down them. Sometimes it’s better just to stop, read everything, rest a little bit drink a beverage, them look at what’s causing the little problem. Usually works for me even if it does make me feel, well you know. :-).
Gerald

View Lazyman's profile

Lazyman

700 posts in 854 days


#5 posted 12-29-2015 06:29 PM

I don’t have the problem that you describe but I agree that the 2 part fence rail design is a pain. They did that so that they could sell in big box stores without having to put the rails into separate packaging. My problem is that it makes it easier for the table wings to drop. The front rail on mine was easy and stays aligned but it took me several tries with the back rail to get it right and it has recently slipped out of alignment again. I am thinking about replacing the back rail with a single piece of angle iron to permanently eliminate the problem that the 2 piece back rail presents. Only reason I haven’t already is that I am worried about getting the holes drilled precisely enough.

If you haven’t seen it already you might check out the review of the saw by thetinman here: http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/3881
There might be some good tips in that thread about how to fix the problem and if not, if you post a question there, you’ll usually get a response pretty quickly. He’s spent a lot of time tuning this saw and probably knows more about it than Delta.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

View Amphigory's profile

Amphigory

8 posts in 349 days


#6 posted 12-29-2015 06:45 PM

I did this last week. The instructions could be better. On mine, the union plate was assembled with shoulder bolts and the screws are flush. Any chance you put the screws in the wrong direction? Mine doesn’t seem to have any problem with interference.

There’s a video on youtube where Delta shows you how to assemble it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buoVm5rKCgU

View WhyMe's profile

WhyMe

616 posts in 1027 days


#7 posted 12-29-2015 07:37 PM



I don t have the problem that you describe but I agree that the 2 part fence rail design is a pain. They did that so that they could sell in big box stores without having to put the rails into separate packaging. My problem is that it makes it easier for the table wings to drop. The front rail on mine was easy and stays aligned but it took me several tries with the back rail to get it right and it has recently slipped out of alignment again. I am thinking about replacing the back rail with a single piece of angle iron to permanently eliminate the problem that the 2 piece back rail presents. Only reason I haven t already is that I am worried about getting the holes drilled precisely enough.

- Lazyman

You do not have the bolts tight enough. I use my saw quite a lot and have never had any issue with the back rail moving. To help align the two piece rail I found that clamping a 6ft level along the rails length keeps it straight and makes it easier to set to the right rail height. Set rail alignment to cast iron table first, then set the wings to the rail.

View alittleoff's profile

alittleoff

296 posts in 743 days


#8 posted 12-29-2015 09:27 PM

I thought about using a single rail, or welding the two peices together. A good welder could do it in a few minutes time. But I’ve had mine for quite a while now and neither front or back has moved at all. You need to tighten every thing up good when it’s lined up and shouldn’t have any trouble.
Gerald

View Lazyman's profile

Lazyman

700 posts in 854 days


#9 posted 12-30-2015 03:29 AM

You do not have the bolts tight enough. I use my saw quite a lot and have never had any issue with the back rail moving. To help align the two piece rail I found that clamping a 6ft level along the rails length keeps it straight and makes it easier to set to the right rail height. Set rail alignment to cast iron table first, then set the wings to the rail.

- WhyMe

Yeah, that’s what I assumed too but when I tried to tighten the bolts, they seem about as tight as I can get them without using some sort of extension to get more leverage but that is probably a bad idea. It took over a year for that to happen so I just assumed that temperature change caused it. I think that it would be less likely to happen if the rail was a single piece.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

View WhyMe's profile

WhyMe

616 posts in 1027 days


#10 posted 12-30-2015 03:20 PM

You do not have the bolts tight enough. I use my saw quite a lot and have never had any issue with the back rail moving. To help align the two piece rail I found that clamping a 6ft level along the rails length keeps it straight and makes it easier to set to the right rail height. Set rail alignment to cast iron table first, then set the wings to the rail.

- WhyMe

Yeah, that s what I assumed too but when I tried to tighten the bolts, they seem about as tight as I can get them without using some sort of extension to get more leverage but that is probably a bad idea. It took over a year for that to happen so I just assumed that temperature change caused it. I think that it would be less likely to happen if the rail was a single piece.

- Lazyman

If the bolts are coming loose then I don’t see how the one piece rail will change that. My suggestion is to use Locktight on the bolts. Don’t use any long leverage on the bolts because you may strip or break the bolts and then you’ll have a bigger problem.

If you have a torque wrench, torque rail bolts to at least 10 ft.lbs.

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WhyMe

616 posts in 1027 days


#11 posted 12-30-2015 04:36 PM

I should clarify, the 10 ft.lb. is the the angle iron rail bolts to the cast table and wings. The box tube rail to the angle iron rail bolts are 1/4” and should be torqued to no more than 6 ft. lbs.

View benavery's profile

benavery

1 post in 345 days


#12 posted 12-30-2015 06:50 PM

I found that some of the pre-drilled holes in the rails had flared out the metal on the outside slightly (maybe they were punched out?), meaning the rails don’t sit flush to the saw. A few seconds with a hand-file to clean them up greatly helped the fence sit better, and probably less prone to slippage. It was also required to get the union plate to hold the rails correctly

View LGLDSR73's profile

LGLDSR73

6 posts in 1233 days


#13 posted 12-31-2015 01:44 AM

Many thanks to everyone who replied, greatly appreciated. The fact of the matter is that I had put the union plate on the wrong side….duh.

Seriously, many thanks!

Lyman

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