router table table saw extension

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Forum topic by Andrew Betschman posted 01-18-2010 05:36 AM 4571 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Andrew Betschman

309 posts in 2645 days

01-18-2010 05:36 AM

Any one have one they really like? Home made or bought? It will go on a ridgid ts2424 with the O.E.M. fence.

-- Andrew, Ohio

6 replies so far

View knotscott's profile


7146 posts in 2797 days

#1 posted 01-18-2010 08:01 AM

I’ve made a couple that have worked out fairly well.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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Andrew Betschman

309 posts in 2645 days

#2 posted 03-21-2010 04:01 AM

Is there any thing you would change?

-- Andrew, Ohio

View hazbro's profile


109 posts in 2412 days

#3 posted 03-21-2010 04:11 AM

I’ve got a 8’ x 2’ hardwood top steel frame workbench from costco for $200 that I’m gonna cut a hole in and mount a woodpecker lift into. it’s flat straight & square and the top is 1 1/2 thick. custom table to build doors.

-- measure once, keep cuttin' til it fits

View JonSnc1's profile


46 posts in 2435 days

#4 posted 03-21-2010 06:07 AM

One thing I’d change on mine that I never would have thought of beforehand, is that if you attach the fence with T-nuts, add the track and a small circle at the back that allows you to remove it from above. You’ill be removing the fence a lot on a table saw extension. I find it a huge PITA to reach under the table on my current table to catch the T-nut everytime, because the T-nut connects to a groove routed through the whole thickness of the table.

Also, YMMV, but I was not happy with an MDF surface, even with poly and wax, the scratches were definitely a problem. I currently have melamine-coated MDF, which is a big improvement in smoothness and scratch resistance, but still not as durable as plastic laminate, which I’ll probably use on my next one that I’ll be building soon.

A question I was going to ask the group, but I’ll ask here since we’re already talking router tables; what’s likely to produce a stiffer table, less prone to sag, a 3/4” MDF top with hardwood torsion box about 2 inches deep or so, or a double 3/4”MDF surface with hardware perimeter banding? My current table is 3/4”MDF with hardwood frame below, only on the perimeter, and it’s sagging badly.

View Ger21's profile


1047 posts in 2553 days

#5 posted 03-21-2010 02:53 PM

My last one was MDF with laminate, and it sagged way too much after a few years. Right now I’m building a 3” torsion box table.

-- Gerry,

View SKFrog16's profile


661 posts in 2622 days

#6 posted 03-21-2010 08:32 PM

Took mine off the saw long ago. Found myself constantly removing the router fence. Built a separate roll-away cabinet for it. Best move I ever made.

-- Methods are many,Principles are few.Methods change often,Principles never do.

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