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Questions on cabinet doors

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Forum topic by HalfNasty posted 1676 days ago 1496 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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HalfNasty

3 posts in 1677 days


1676 days ago

I am an “intermediate” woodworker who builds items for others on occasion. I have been asked to build a liquor cabinet for a customer that would include doors 20” x 20” made out of 3/4” oak. Simple enough. I have problems, however, on how to keep a door this size stable as to warping one way or another. It needs to remain flat so it would close properly years down the road. Also, I need help in determining what type of hinge to use that would support a door this size and weight fully open for years to come. I am new to this site and hope that someone with more experience than I can help me out .


8 replies so far

View GFYS's profile

GFYS

711 posts in 2095 days


#1 posted 1676 days ago

how to keep a door this size stable as to warping one way or another

use “stable material”
use standard methods of building a door panel that should probably have been designed differently. (buddy doors)
consider lateral back supports
use 3 axis adjustable hinges
make no promises

View UnionLabel's profile

UnionLabel

660 posts in 1824 days


#2 posted 1676 days ago

I would recommend stick and cope with a floating center panel. Use the .188 spacer balls to stop the center panel from rattling but allows for expansion. You did not state whether this has a face frame or is frameless, but euro style hinges will work and 2 per door will be sufficient. When doors go over 30 inches in height, then use 3 hinges, 42 inches and over use 4, up to 48 ” in height. Something like a 170 degree Blum hinge should do the trick. This table should help you out as well.
http://www.specialtysupplies.com/pdf/blum/blumcatp23clip170.pdf

-- Methods are many,Principles are few.Methods change often,Principles never do.

View huff's profile

huff

2795 posts in 1909 days


#3 posted 1676 days ago

HalfNasty, I’m not sure the style door you want to make, but it sounded like maybe a solid flat door. If so, there would be a couple ways to do that. If you are going to glue up solid oak to 20” in width, I would suggest you don’t go over 5” wide with each board and flip the growth rings on every other board. Make sure your lumber is flat and stable to start with. All wood is going to expand and contract during seasonal changes, so it’s impossible to know for sure if they will stay flat. Another note: When you finish, make sure you seal both sides and all edges equally. Another way to do a flat door is do it in Oak Plywood with a solid wood edging. Actually some people likes this look better ( more of a modern look). Make sure you get good Plywood ( at least 7 ply). The more plys, the more stable. Usually your big box stores sell a 5 ply, so check it out if you go that route. Either style door, you should be fine with two hinges per door. Are these going to be a full overlay, 3/8 inset or full inset? I’m with UnionLabel, use the euro style hinges if you can. They will handle the weight and lots of adjustment after they are mounted. And you can always do a 5 piece, stile and rail with a flat panel. A totally different look, but usually pretty easy to keep stable. Good luck and drop me a line if you have any questions.

-- John @ http://www.thehuffordfurnituregroup.com

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Sawkerf

1730 posts in 1692 days


#4 posted 1676 days ago

If this is to be a solid door (i.e. a slab), I would use a piece of MDF core oak plywood with an edge banding. I did several slab style beech doors a couple of years ago and used iron-on edge banding.

If you want a flat panel door, a regular cope and stick frame with a 1/4” ply panel would work just fine.

For a raised panel door, I would make cope and stick rails and stiles at least 2.25” wide, and shoot a couple of brads into each joint from the back.

For hinges, I would use two cup hinges.

Like John says above, skip the big box plywood. For plywood slab doors, I use A1 ply from a real lumberyard.

-- Adversity doesn't build character...................it reveals it.

View rhett's profile

rhett

697 posts in 2291 days


#5 posted 1675 days ago

As much as I enjoy helping out other woodworkers and sharing what knowledge I myself continually gain over the years, I am going to have to be an ass on this one. Let me start by saying that I am no master by any sence of the word. With that said, there are certain fundamentals one should have a firm grasp of before trying to get paid for the craft. Some of which I feel are woodmovement and door construction. This is not a persoanl attack on you HalfNasty. This is my venting on a subject I am seeing more and more frequently on this forum. Woodworkers with just enough knowledge to be dangerous and then trying to get paid for it.

-- http://planeandsimpleblog.wordpress.com/

View mtkate's profile

mtkate

2049 posts in 1949 days


#6 posted 1675 days ago

Hi Rhett – I understand your point but there is no telling from above what HalfNasty has already declared with his customer (who is probably a friend of a friend of a friend?).

As long as individuals are honest, and declare their level of expertise and what they need to research in order to perform the job – then they are setting the right expectations. People who go to non-professionals know what they are doing. They are trying to save money. Makes me think of the episode in Faulty Towers where Basil insisted to hire the Irish contractor and ended up losing his dining room entrance.

I myself have had many different hobbies in the past and when friends of friends of friends (etc) saw what I did and would ask me to do something for them and pay me for it. I always declared my level of expertise and told them the risk they were taking – it’s THEY who always insisted to proceed… Luckily, I have never had a disaster and took rework (caused by myself) on myself. But then, I was never trying to make a living on this. Just side projects.

I agree. I live by that quote.

Alexander Pope (1688 – 1744), An Essay on Criticism, 1709:

“A little learning is a dangerous thing; drink deep, or taste not the Pierian spring: there shallow draughts intoxicate the brain, and drinking largely sobers us again.”

View Dave's profile

Dave

26 posts in 1691 days


#7 posted 1674 days ago

Hi HalfNasty i to am fairly new to woodworking. The info from the other guys above is great. I think its great that you want to build and maybe make a couple of bucks doing it. Asking questions on what ever your
not sure is great. I think all the Lumber Jocks out there are more than willing to help out .( Well most of
them ) Oh and as far as just enough knowledge to be dangerous and try to get paid for it Dont listen to that.
Good luck
I hope you learn lots from fellow Lumber Jocks and Make Money doing your work.

-- Dave

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Artie2

6 posts in 1674 days


#8 posted 1673 days ago

That was a great episode of FT. I believe the venerable “O’Reilly” was the Irishman.

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