High-end saw blade (10") for flat dado's

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Forum topic by MNgary posted 12-25-2015 06:24 AM 1357 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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303 posts in 2615 days

12-25-2015 06:24 AM

I need to cut dado’s that leave a perfectly flat ‘bottom of the dado’. Prefer doing it on my 10” cabinet saw.

Blade recommendations or alternatives???

-- I dream of a world where a duck can cross the road and no one asks why.

16 replies so far

View lateralus819's profile


2241 posts in 2087 days

#1 posted 12-25-2015 06:35 AM

I have the DeWalt kit. I like it a lot. Comes with a nice case too.

View newwoodbutcher's profile


777 posts in 3048 days

#2 posted 12-25-2015 07:00 AM

I’e had the Forrest dado set for twenty years and am very happy with the performance.

-- Ken

View MrUnix's profile


7038 posts in 2397 days

#3 posted 12-25-2015 07:21 AM

I’ve never seen a dado stack that will leave a perfect cut – although I’m sure there might be something out there that can. See this thread started by Scott for examples. Alternative? I’d consider using a router if you need an absolutely flat bottom.


-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View Fettler's profile


200 posts in 2195 days

#4 posted 12-25-2015 07:30 AM

Maybe a router? If you’re cutting dados in non-engineered wood (natural wood) then you can achieve final depth with a router plane.

-- --Rob, Seattle, WA

View Andre's profile (online now)


2201 posts in 2004 days

#5 posted 12-25-2015 09:05 AM

Lee Valley sell a Dimitar 24 tooth rip blade with Flat top, excellent blade, they also have the 8” Finger Box set with Flat top which I just picked up but haven’t had a chance to try yet!

-- Lifting one end of the plank.

View knotscott's profile


8146 posts in 3573 days

#6 posted 12-25-2015 02:14 PM

Box joint sets, FTG rip blades, and router bits will leave truly linear flat bottoms, but will leave more tear out on cross grain cuts. Stacked dado sets can get close, but do leave some bat ears….it’s by design so they’ll have good cross grain performance too.

If you still want a stacked dado. The DW/Delta 7670 set is one of the best values in the $120 range. The Infinity Dadonator is the best performer I’ve used, but runs ~ $200+

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View WoodNSawdust's profile


1417 posts in 1374 days

#7 posted 12-25-2015 02:29 PM

Whatever you choose stay away from the wobble dado adjustable sets. Personal experience shows that they leave a very uneven bottom and have bad tear out.

-- "I love it when a plan comes together" John "Hannibal" Smith

View sawdustdad's profile


366 posts in 1083 days

#8 posted 12-25-2015 02:31 PM

I’ve switched to the router for many dado cuts. The time to set up the stacked dado on the table saw vs. changing a bit on the router table (which is actually mounted on the extension table of my TS and uses the same fence). The accuracy of the router bits reduces set up time and bits for plywood thicknesses are available as well.

Not sure if this will work for you, but something to consider.

With a stacked dado set, I always need to use a router plane or chisel to smooth the little nubs out of the bottom of the dado anyway.

-- Murphy's Carpentry Corollary #3: Half of all boards cut to a specific length will be too short.

View bearkatwood's profile


1663 posts in 1209 days

#9 posted 12-25-2015 04:17 PM

I bought my set last year and love it, they leave a very clean dado and they sound like a freekin airplane taking off when I raise it up to full height to cut out notches for back chair legs.

-- Brian Noel

View kaerlighedsbamsen's profile


1251 posts in 1911 days

#10 posted 12-25-2015 04:47 PM

The obvious answer would be to use a spindle shaper cutter made for the purpose. Some should fit the arbor of your ts. For instance like this one:

-- "Do or Do not. There is no try." - Yoda

View rwe2156's profile


3163 posts in 1678 days

#11 posted 12-25-2015 06:06 PM

Of course I guess the Forest is the best.

I’ve had good luck with my Freud set but – the last time I got it sharpened the blade tips on one or more spacers are off.

I don’t worry about it anymore becasue I’ve evolved to leaving it just shy and finishing out a dado with a router plane.

This ensures uniform depth across the board, which you cannot get with a dado set because any slight concave cup will leave the dado depth shallower in the middle.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View MNgary's profile


303 posts in 2615 days

#12 posted 01-22-2016 04:42 PM

Thanks, all, for the feedback. I will look at router bits.

-- I dream of a world where a duck can cross the road and no one asks why.

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

11059 posts in 3626 days

#13 posted 01-22-2016 04:57 PM

My dado set is a Tenryu. I had my outside blades ground to eliminate the bat wings. Works fine.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

View pintodeluxe's profile


5798 posts in 3011 days

#14 posted 01-22-2016 05:19 PM

I find most dado sets will give a nice flat bottomed groove. I never show the dado in a finished project, so the tiny bat ears are never an issue. You have to look pretty close to even see them.

The one place I initially thought it might be more critical is with through tenons. However if you plan to make a full-width cut at the exposed tip of the tenon, it’s a non-issue.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View shampeon's profile


1882 posts in 2381 days

#15 posted 01-22-2016 05:25 PM

I have a Freud box-joint set that cuts true flat bottoms.

-- ian | "You can't stop what's coming. It ain't all waiting on you. That's vanity."

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