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G0715p alignment issues as explained by Grizzly

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Forum topic by Karamba posted 12-25-2015 04:36 AM 1348 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Karamba

116 posts in 396 days


12-25-2015 04:36 AM

A Grizzly techsupport answered my question about infamous issues of the blade going out of alignment when it is cranked up. He just said, yes it does, but only when you raise it beyond of what is the saw designed for i.e beyond 3 1/4” or so. I looked at some videos of people who claimed they had the issue and it does not look like they understand it completely.
So my question to G0715P owners ( or Ridgid or Crastsman) can you confirm that your saw is out of alignment at the highest point but is OK at normal heights ? The tech person says all saws behave like that so it is not a case by case variation.


13 replies so far

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Tennessee

2410 posts in 1974 days


#1 posted 12-25-2015 01:06 PM

I have the Rigid 4512, and it does not come out of alignment at the highest point, although I don’t crank it hard to make that last 1/8”. It goes out on the way up a bit, then comes back, no matter what height I want.

I can imagine if you really crank it tight all the way up, it will be out, but who does that?

-- Paul, Tennessee, http://www.tsunamiguitars.com

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KellyB

77 posts in 642 days


#2 posted 12-25-2015 02:01 PM

When I was agonizing over a new saw (a ritual that must be gone through) I, too, looked at the 0715. The tech support fellow I talked with sounded as if he was a woodworker, and said that they had never adequately fixed the alignment problems of the saw. I chose the 1023rl instead based on his recommendation. Even allowing for the fact that the 1023 was more expensive, his explanation had the ring of truth.

I am quite pleased with the 1023RL and am past the point of “Post Purchase Depression”

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716

502 posts in 376 days


#3 posted 12-25-2015 09:10 PM

The only thing stopping me from buying G1023RL is a necessity to deal with the local authorities. These guys have very good appetite and charge more for a code application for a new 220V circuit than an electrician for doing the actual work. I think Grizzly would make some good sales if they allowed a less powerful 110V option on their 1023 or 061 saw. There is a lot of folks that need precision but do not care about power so much.

-- It's nice!

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MadMark

976 posts in 913 days


#4 posted 12-25-2015 11:13 PM

I have the G0715P and am totally please with it. The 90° and 45° presets were dead on. I’ve never noticed a lean when overcranked past 3-1/8 since I don’t DO that! With a ZCI and a Freud LU83 10 and an Incra fence I get total precision.

-- Madmark - Madmark2150@yahoo.com Wiretreefarm.com

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REO

889 posts in 1534 days


#5 posted 12-26-2015 02:32 PM

716 the motor can be wired for 110!

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knotscott

7207 posts in 2835 days


#6 posted 12-26-2015 02:52 PM


The only thing stopping me from buying G1023RL is a necessity to deal with the local authorities. These guys have very good appetite and charge more for a code application for a new 220V circuit than an electrician for doing the actual work. I think Grizzly would make some good sales if they allowed a less powerful 110V option on their 1023 or 061 saw. There is a lot of folks that need precision but do not care about power so much.

- 716


716 the motor can be wired for 110!

- REO

Grizzly used to offer a G1023S110 2hp, but it’s been discontinued for a while. Wiring a 3hp motor for 120v would require somewhere near a 30 amp 120v circuit (or higher), which most homes aren’t wired to accommodate easily.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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skcj213

27 posts in 925 days


#7 posted 12-26-2015 04:12 PM

The blade on my R4512 shifts as soon as pressure is applied to raise the blade. Once getting the blade to the desired height a slight counterclockwise turn of the height adjustment to remove pressure results in the blade coming back to square. No, it shouldn’t do that, but I live with it.

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REO

889 posts in 1534 days


#8 posted 12-26-2015 07:22 PM

it appeared the trouble was the voltage of the new circuit not the amperage which as you have stated would be 28 full load on 110v. this is full load current.The same cut will require the same amperage whether it is made on a two horse motor or a three horse motor. the three horse is capable of supplying more than the 2 horse but they use the same power for the same cuts. a three horse can be successfully used on 20 amps with no more chance to blow the breaker than a 2 horse which takes 20 amps at 110v.

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716

502 posts in 376 days


#9 posted 12-26-2015 10:52 PM


716 the motor can be wired for 110!
- REO

Are you absolutely sure about that ?

-- It's nice!

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716

502 posts in 376 days


#10 posted 12-26-2015 10:57 PM


The same cut will require the same amperage whether it is made on a two horse motor or a three horse motor. the three horse is capable of supplying more than the 2 horse but they use the same power for the same cuts. a three horse can be successfully used on 20 amps with no more chance to blow the breaker than a 2 horse which takes 20 amps at 110v.
- REO

Sorry to disappoint you but you are wrong again. There is maximal current rating for each specific motor and usually the higher the nominal power means higher maximal current.
You can try all you want but a 2HP motor may not consume 40A at any speed but that could be a normal staring current for a 5HP motor.
To sum it up a more powerful motor has a higher chance ( by much) of tripping a breaker on the same circuit than a less powerful motor.

-- It's nice!

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MadMark

976 posts in 913 days


#11 posted 12-26-2015 11:05 PM

I think he was saying that for a light load, say 1/4” ply, the amperage will be low for both a 2 & 3 hp motor. You are correct for near full load conditions, but how much 3” jatoba ripping do you do?

M

-- Madmark - Madmark2150@yahoo.com Wiretreefarm.com

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REO

889 posts in 1534 days


#12 posted 12-27-2015 04:34 AM

I wasn’t wrong the first time. That motor can be wired for 110 without a rewind! Unless it is uniquely made for a specific application the windings in a 220 motor and a 110 motor are the same. They are all made for 110v. In a 220 application they are wired in series and in a 110 application they are wired in parallel regardless of what the name plate says. I don’t know a guy lol I am the guy! I have REWIRED dozens of motors that were only single voltage and or single rotation to be dual voltage reversible. I do not rewind them I just find the non user serviceable connections and bring them out. If you were careful enough to read rather than judge I mentioned that the rating was at “full load”. I have set up a demonstration for just exactly what is being discussed: 2 and 3 hp table saws side by side with an amp meter during the cut on the same material they are within an amp of each other.(the same blade was switched from saw to saw as well.) I was just relaying the facts. You kind of introduced the question, I answered with applicable information If you are interested I would be happy to help you. Trying to make my answer wrong when you don’t have an answer at all is just reading material.

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ArtMann

131 posts in 276 days


#13 posted 11-05-2016 07:50 PM

I am quite certain the Grizzly G0715P can be operated on 120VAC with a 20A breaker (110 is not nominal voltage!) The reason I know this is that is the way mine is wired. I wouldn’t do it that way if I had bought the saw new but that is the way the previous owner had it configured. When I get time, I plan to convert it back.

I just went over the saw last week and did an alignment on it. The only thing I found wrong was the fence was not aligned to the miter slot and blade. I didn’t detect any blade height related alignment issues.

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