Building a wooden fence question?

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Forum topic by brantley posted 01-13-2010 08:34 PM 1397 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View brantley's profile


185 posts in 2675 days

01-13-2010 08:34 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question pine

Im thinking of putting a fence in my yard. Im thinking about 90 ft on both sides and 90 ft in the back… and joining it on to the sides of the house which shouldnt be much…im talking about your basic wooden fence. 6ft tall fencing…..

How much do fencing people usually charge for a fence this size.??? I consider it about average as far as yard size.

Also any tips on the actual construction of the fence, set up, etc is appreciated. Never done it before.

8 replies so far

View Gary's profile


8965 posts in 2850 days

#1 posted 01-13-2010 08:41 PM

Use screws instead of nails. Bump the boards…when they shrink you’ll see the gap.

-- Gary, DeKalb Texas only 4 miles from the mill

View brantley's profile


185 posts in 2675 days

#2 posted 01-13-2010 09:57 PM

any idea of the size screw? id be using dog ear fencing

View Kindlingmaker's profile


2656 posts in 2944 days

#3 posted 01-13-2010 10:55 PM

For your framework use joist hangers and screw them also. If you use your typical 3/4” boards then you would want at least 1 3/4” screws. Gaping your boards is good if they are really dry but if the wood is wet, as Gary mentioned, bump them up against each other. If you you install dry boards and bump them then when they get wet they will swell and pop boards loose and make gates impassable. Never paint your fench or you will be painting it the rest of your life! A stain sprayed on is good or leaving it natural. If left natural, seal the top end grain with a stain sealer and your boards should last much longer and the goes for the uprights on your framework.

-- Never board, always knotty, lots of growth rings

View funchuck's profile


119 posts in 2475 days

#4 posted 01-13-2010 11:39 PM

Like Gary said, use screws.

I used pressure treated 4×4s for the posts on mine. Not sure if the pressure treated wood would make a difference though.

I painted mine off white. I used a good primer too. They are about 5 years old and so far, they look good… actually, they still look new, except that the pad lock on it has gotten some rust.

-- Charles from California

View SteveB's profile


57 posts in 3475 days

#5 posted 01-14-2010 12:57 AM

Around here (Arlington, TX), $7.00 per foot is a good rough estimate.

-- Steve B - New Life Home Improvement

View CaptainSkully's profile


1407 posts in 2976 days

#6 posted 01-14-2010 06:49 AM

It’s been a while since I’ve done a fence bid, but SteveB’s estimate sounds right to me. How does one compare commercial fencing pricing with doing it yourself pricing? Don’t forget who gets the “good” side…

-- You can't control the wind, but you can trim your sails

View SteveB's profile


57 posts in 3475 days

#7 posted 01-14-2010 08:29 PM

Thinking again, that $7/foot is for the labor.

Here’s an estimate from HomeTech Cost Estimator, assuming the contractor marks up material and labor by 50%: (Sorry, but I can’t get the columns to format properly.)

Item Material Labor Total Selling
Description Quantity Unit Cost Cost Cost Price
Pressure treated pine stockade fencing 270 LF 2,627.10 2,065.50 4,692.60 7,038.90
42” wide pressure treated stockade gate 2 EA 144.56 153.00 297.56 446.34

Project Selling Price: $7,485.24
Project Cost: $4,990.16
Gross Profit: $2,495.08
Gross Profit Percentage: 33.33 %

-- Steve B - New Life Home Improvement

View KnotWright's profile


252 posts in 2905 days

#8 posted 01-14-2010 08:30 PM

From a guy that’s put up miles and miles of both chain link and standard home cedar picket fencing, and after checking local prices from home depot, Just materials are about 10 bucks a foot, using 1×6x6 pickets, 4×4x8 treated posts, and 2×4x10 rails, and figuring a bag of concrete per post.

Once I moved to Austin, I quit installing fences because of the limestone rock just under the dirt. I couldn’t compete with the local fence companies in town, so I just started using them.

There’s a debate on whether to cement the posts in the ground or not, I’ve always used concrete and never had any rot problems. You’ve got a few choices on posts, treated pine, cedar posts, and metal posts. Problem with metal posts is you have to buy the brackets to mount your two by fours and the caps for the posts, but they do last longer, and are easier to change out if you get one bent. Treated 4×4’s have a tendency to twist as they dry out, making the fence look bad. Cedar posts tend to stay straight, but they rot faster from my experience anyway.

When you figure your pickets add extra pickets per foot, since they are only 5.5” each so you loose ground the longer the run of fence is.

Good luck with your fencing project.

-- James

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