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Forum topic by DonJ posted 12-18-2015 08:17 PM 556 views 0 times favorited 1 reply Add to Favorites Watch
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250 posts in 3552 days

12-18-2015 08:17 PM

1. I have a box I’m building that has many, many, many coats of lacquer applied. To fill in some minor opened grain, I’ve dropped in straight lacquer using a straight pin. I got a ‘ding’ on the top and have been trying to fill it in using the same technique, but with little success. It appears to dry from the outside in, and when I block sand it after drying I still have the little divit. It’s too large to leave as is. Any suggestions?

2. I got some tearout when routing some wenge on multiple projects (Christmas gifts). I went to Lowes to get some ebony wood filler, but mistakingly purchased wood putty. After filling in all of the tearout, the next morning I realized my error when it was still pliable. Any ideas as how to get all of the oil from the putty out of the areas so a filler can be used? To note, the project is a sushi tray that needs to have an oil application on it. BTW, I have some water based ebony wood filler, but assume that won’t work with an oil finish. Any help there would be appreciated as well.

As you can see, this year’s Christmas projects aren’t going very smoothly. Thanks as always.

-- Don, San Antonio, TX

1 reply so far

View JAAune's profile


1802 posts in 2341 days

#1 posted 12-18-2015 08:53 PM

Your method for repairing lacquer is sound but it takes a long while for the finish to fully cure. Until it does cure, it’s too soft for proper sanding and polishing and it will still continue to shrink. If you can’t force cure it according to manufacturer specs, it may take as long as three weeks for a full cure. Elevated temperatures and air movement speed up curing but that can be dangerous with solvent-based finishes if you don’t have the right setup.

Mineral spirits or paint thinner will usually cut oil-based products that haven’t dried yet. That should get the oil residue out.

-- See my work at and

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