LumberJocks

Craftsman Table saw Model 113.27520(1952)

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by woodworker1972 posted 01-08-2010 07:54 AM 12303 views 0 times favorited 25 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View woodworker1972's profile

woodworker1972

10 posts in 2527 days


01-08-2010 07:54 AM

Topic tags/keywords: vintage craftsman table saw tablesaw

I am looking for the extions for the rack and pinion fence. The fence is good and solid. I want to build a saw station for this saw with wing extentions and outfeed table. I would like to be able to heep original fence, but will need the extentions that the fence rides on. Like I said its a rack and pinion style. This saw was made by emerson co. and was one of the better 10 inch saw made for sears and roebuck. Mine has a 1 hp motor on it. I am restoring this old saw and will post before and after pics when done. Any info or help would be greatly appreciated.


25 replies so far

View scrappy's profile

scrappy

3506 posts in 2897 days


#1 posted 01-08-2010 08:56 AM

Would also like to know. Just picked up one of these yestaerday. Had a bit of surface rust but otherwize in great shape. Also need to build a stand with wings and outfeed for it. Oh, and I need the original rip fence. Mine has a different one on it, but still has the rack for the original.

-- Scrap Wood's the best...the projects are smaller, and so is the mess!

View woodworker1972's profile

woodworker1972

10 posts in 2527 days


#2 posted 01-08-2010 09:01 AM

I have been looking through the internet for a few hours now and have not come up with anything yet. So I am hoping somebody out there knows where I can find these parts. I hate to lose the original fence when it works so well.

View woodpicker's profile

woodpicker

8 posts in 2527 days


#3 posted 01-08-2010 08:30 PM

View woodworker1972's profile

woodworker1972

10 posts in 2527 days


#4 posted 01-08-2010 09:22 PM

Well the fence rails are what I need. How long do they make up put together? How much do you want for them? Guess I could take the fence for spare parts. I want to build a station similiar to yours that is why I wanted the extra rails, however I do not know how long they are all together. May not be long enough after all. I don’t know. Let me know, thanks

View woodpicker's profile

woodpicker

8 posts in 2527 days


#5 posted 01-09-2010 02:12 AM

42”

View woodworker1972's profile

woodworker1972

10 posts in 2527 days


#6 posted 01-09-2010 05:56 AM

Ok, thanks. I was hoping they would be a little longer. I will probably go ahead and build a bisiesmeyer clone.
Here are some pics of the saw I picked up. I tore it down tonight and have started on cleaning up the table.
Will post future pics and the finished product with saw station when I get it completed.
Well I guess no pics, I cant figure out how to post them right now.

View mgb_2x's profile

mgb_2x

179 posts in 2535 days


#7 posted 01-11-2010 04:13 AM

http://www.owwm.com/
this is a great site for old woodworking machines, might be a good place ot start

-- "aim small miss small" m g breedlove

View woodworker1972's profile

woodworker1972

10 posts in 2527 days


#8 posted 01-11-2010 05:15 AM

Thanks, I have been all over that site. I have sent them two emails one of which was another question and they still have not answered me. I am also looking for the front panel. Mine was badly pitted. I tried numerous tricks that I had learned over the years in black powder restoration and other things. But no matter what I tried, it either would not clean it up or it wanted to remove the swirl marks that were on there from the factory. I have looked on ebay. The only thing I can see is to find a whole saw for parts. They had one on ebay, nut the guy wanted three times what I paid for this one and appeared to be in about the same shape. I have tried three different things to put the swirl marks back in, but have been unsuccessful. I was not able to find anything online either. I could just buff and polish the front panel out to a mirror finish, but that would not be original. I f anybody has any info on this that would be great. Or if you have an extra front pane that fits a 113.27520 or know someone who does that would be great too. Thanks

View noahbehrens's profile

noahbehrens

3 posts in 2459 days


#9 posted 03-17-2010 03:12 AM

woodworker1972,
ii actually stumbled upon this part when searching for rack extensions for the same saw
http://www.restoredwoodshop.info/parts-for-sale.php?mfr_id=2

woodpicker,
are the aluminum rail extensions still for sale?

View Obernelson's profile

Obernelson

5 posts in 2640 days


#10 posted 04-14-2010 04:02 AM

woodpicker, thanks for the idea for a replacement fence for the old Craftsman

View cleanout's profile

cleanout

1 post in 2286 days


#11 posted 09-05-2010 10:18 PM

I have one of these tablesaws from my uncle. is anyone interested in it?

View BandAide's profile

BandAide

7 posts in 854 days


#12 posted 08-08-2014 02:59 AM

I am in the process of restoring a 1951 Craftsman 113.27520.

I’m not trying to make it original because there are so many 113 saws on the ground that almost every house has one.

My aim is to have a great saw for a cheap price, so I’m rebuilding my grandfather’s saw.

I cleaned and replaced bearings on the arbor and wire buffed the acme screws, palm sanded the ways with scotch bright and WD-40, Stripped and gave the case an electrolytic bath with my battery charger and HTH PH plus, Cleaned the aluminum, and clear-coated. and painted the case a Craftsman blue.

To turn Ferrous oxide(Hard red rust) into Ferric oxide (Soft brown rust) 1) get a large plastic container,
2) Get HTH PH plus or Arm and Hammer Landry Detergent (Sodium Carbonate), 3) Add 1 teaspoon per gallon of water, 4) Connect negative battery charger cable to the parts you want to clean. 5) connect positive cable to the junk in the water pail. Don’t let the positive and negative touch, separate them with anything non conductive, lumber bricks EXC.

For a cleaning in 8 hours, use a 30 to 40 amp charger.

It is only safe to put your hand in the water when the charger is off.

If you do it when it is on, you will know it.

The rust will wipe off easily after an electrolysis bath.

The larger the anode (Junk piece connected to the plus wire, the better, stainless works best.)

Don’t use the old lady’s new pot, I learned that the hard way.

I Palm sanded the table until I could see tool marks through the rust, then I got out the steel scrubbing pads and the gun oil to clean the top.

I bought the bearings and the cast iron wings on Ebay, as well as the Delta T2 fence i,m going to add to the saw, A delta T2 fence is just like a Beismeyer fence, But about 1/3 the cost.

I am also adding an Incra 1000 SE Miter fence.

For less than 500 bucks I’ll have a Very close to cabinet quality saw.

View toolie's profile

toolie

2025 posts in 2095 days


#13 posted 08-09-2014 12:40 AM

Careful with that last comment, band aide. The “ya gotta have a 3 hp “old arn” 52” biesmeyer equipped cabinet saw” to do any serious woodworking crowd might not appreciate it.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View BandAide's profile

BandAide

7 posts in 854 days


#14 posted 08-12-2014 09:22 AM

I may not be able to cut really dense wood like maple ore oak with the precision of a cabinet saw,
But I bet it will do better than a new saw from a big box store.

View BandAide's profile

BandAide

7 posts in 854 days


#15 posted 08-12-2014 09:35 AM

The Biggest problem to overcome with the old Craftsman saws it how to fine tune the trunnion adjustment parallel to the miter slot within .003 inches, anybody have suggestions on how to get this kind of accuracy?

showing 1 through 15 of 25 replies

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com