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To POLY or not to POLY??

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Forum topic by noosh4 posted 12-10-2015 06:09 PM 592 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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noosh4

1 post in 361 days


12-10-2015 06:09 PM

I just made a table out of some rough sewn poplar, which I know isn’t the hardest wood. (It was free so I went with it.) I have done 2 coats of Danish Oil and am coming up on 3 days of cure time for the Danish Oil. I don’t want to use a glossy poly on it, but I am afraid a red wine spill would stain badly. I read in these forums that people have used a Wipe On poly (satin) over Danish Oil. Will that make a significant improvement to its stain resistance? Doesn’t that create a barrier that I’d have to sand down if I needed to condition with Danish Oil in the future? I’d love a little advice given this specific project. Will be a heavily used coffee table for a family with 2 boys and a husband who spills often…


4 replies so far

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Tennessee

2410 posts in 1977 days


#1 posted 12-10-2015 06:15 PM

Will be a heavily used coffee table for a family with 2 boys and a husband who spills often…

I think that says it all…
I’d probably put on at least two-three coats of poly. Then you don’t have to worry about reconditioning it with Danish Oil again.
When I refinished, I must have done at least 50-75 dining room sets over the 12 years, and they all got three-four coats of sprayed polyurethane, buffed and waxed with carnauba wax as a final step. Never had a complaint, and no one ever had me refinish my refinishing job over the twelve years.

-- Paul, Tennessee, http://www.tsunamiguitars.com

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Vicki

1043 posts in 2807 days


#2 posted 12-13-2015 03:20 PM

If your lathe is reversible, get the same size insert, but with a set screw so you can take advantage of the reversing feature.

-- Vicki on the Eastern Shore of MD

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WoodNSawdust

1417 posts in 639 days


#3 posted 12-13-2015 04:10 PM

Welcome to LumberJocks.

Poly will be fine. If you decide to redo the Danish Oil in the future you will have to strip off the Poly first.

First make very very sure that the Danish Oil has completely dried before applying any finish on top of it. If it is the least bit wet you will have problems with the top coat finish.

I would apply two coats of wipe on poly in as close to dust free environment as possible. For the third coat I would apply with 600 grit non-serrated wet/dry sandpaper and then wipe it off and allow to dry. This will remove any dust nubs in the finish and help to level any marks. Keep applying coats of Poly till you are satisfied. Then buff and wax. Depending of wear you will have to rewax it.

-- "I love it when a plan comes together" John "Hannibal" Smith

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a1Jim

115202 posts in 3040 days


#4 posted 12-14-2015 03:14 PM

Given you used an oil finish you might want to use a water base poly.water base will not reactivate the oil finsih below it and give you a good protective finish. You can buy a number of finishes in spray cans such as Minwax polycrylic ,but you will get more for your money if buy the pint or quart size.

http://www.amazon.com/Minwax-23333-Polycrylic-Protective-Finishes/dp/B000C02AO2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1450023589&sr=8-3&keywords=minwax+satin+polycrylic

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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