Table Saw Tops

That was my exact first tablesaw. After using it, I have nothing good to say. It’s not 3HP, by the way…I know it says that on it, but it’s a conversion of startup amperage that they call 3 peak HP. It’s about 3/4 HP. It’s also a direct drive saw. Now, don’t get me wrong. I’m not criticizing YOUR saw. I’m criticizing MY saw. Don’t waste your time. The arbor is too short to take a full stacked dado blade. ..... well anyway, I wrote a review on this saw in 2004. You can read it at http://www.epinions.com/review/Craftsman_10_in_Bench_Table_Saw_24888/content_156877098628

My suggestion would be to not waste your time with it. But I suppose you’re right. You probably couldn’t make it worse.

EDIT
I’m sorry…I didn’t answer your questions as seeing the picture of that saw conjured up demons. I’ve never tried an after market top. I think that and MDF top would sag as you couldn’t make it thick enough to prevent sag AND allow for adequate blade elevation for thicker stock.

Just my opinion.

-- You can discover more about a person in an hour of play than in a year of conversation. (Plato)

I have to agree with Tom.

-- miles125, Alabama.."Architecture is frozen music""

Tom,
LOL…you review and post was great! I didn’t think about blade elevation for thicker MDF stock. Good point. So that’s ruled out. And I really don’t wanna blow $150-$300 on an after market top for this saw. My main two reasons for thinking about it are the crappy miter slots and blade insert. I haven’t tried a dado blade but after reading your review I’m really bummed. I only paid $50 and it works fine for what I’ve used it for (cutting scraps for various household use and cutting dimensional lumber). It’s basically been used as a chop saw since I don’t have one of those either. I haven’t used it allot but it was better than a hand saw. I did have a really nasty kickback incident but that was 100% my fault. Lesson learned and the bruises healed.

I’ll keep it around till the next garage sale. Time to add a table saw to my classifieds searches.

-Rocko

-- -> Malta, IL www.flickr.com/rockomccombs -<

For $300 you should be able to find a good used Saw on craigslist. At least that would be my first plan of attack. I’ve occasionally seen UNISAWs for $300, but you have to be quick.

I also had that saw or one very similar. Scared me to death one time trying to cut some 8/4 oak.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

Wayne, Long story short…I trapped a small block of unsupported wood between the blade and fence…DOH! and then I did it again…DOH! DOH!.

I looked like I got hit in the chest with a soft ball. I didn’t know I could produce such deep shaded of blue. I didn’t use the saw again for the longest time. When I finally did, I rehersed the cut for 30 minutes before turning on the saw.

I’ll keep my eyes open for that killer deal.

-Rocko

-- -> Malta, IL www.flickr.com/rockomccombs -<

It bugged me enough I went out and purchased a new Unisaw…...

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

I should have taken Wayne’s lead. I bought a General contractors saw for my second saw. I like it, but I don’t love it. I want to love my saw. So I’ll probably buy a cabinet saw next summer.

-- You can discover more about a person in an hour of play than in a year of conversation. (Plato)

nothing wrong with a cheap first saw. It gets the job done, and helps us learn what we really need in our equip. Mine was cheaper than the first replacement blade I got for it… and as soon as it finally craps out (or needs another blade) I plan on getting something that costs quite a lot more…. but with my basement shop (and needing everything mobile, I too will be getting something far less than the ideal one.

-- I am always doing what I cannot do yet, in order to learn how to do it. - Pablo Picasso -- http://blanchardcreative.etsy.com -- http://snbcreative.wordpress.com/

Hmmmm !

My comment is “The saw is what it is.”

My suggestion is make certain it is adjusted and trued up as best it can be. Even expensive saws are no good if they’re out of adjustment. My first TS many years ago was a 45 year old Craftsman. I was real careful to make certain the saw was adjusted as accurately as the saw could be. And I didn’t expect it to produce fine furniture or cabinet work. But I was amazed at the results I was able to get from it! But I wouldn’t invest a lot of money in improvements. Certainly don’t invest a lot of time and money in an aftermarket top. If you are truely worried about the saw tipping over, I would find a way of dealing with that. Can you mount the saw on some sort of plywood sheet or small platform?

Other than that, if it’s servicable for what you are doing, you should be able to get some good use from it until you graduate to a better machine.

-- Bob

Rocko, i have that saw as well and have to agree with Tom. I still use the 2488x, but it is set up to only rip wood. I also butt it into an aux table so the saw won;t tip. You are right about the miter gauge slots being funky. I ended up finding and old 50’s craftsman table saw and building a cross cut sled for it. I don’t have the money for a nice saw and this was a cheap solution for now.

I LOVE this site! Everyone is eager to give honest and well reasoned advice. I learned my basic skills a long time ago on a slightly post-war Delta table saw table saw that probably weighed a half ton and a DeWalt radial-arm saw with a support table that ran along a 25 foot wall, along with Delta jointers and planers. This was a professional cabinet shop in my grandad’s lumber yard. So, when I got back into woodworking recently, I was frustrated at first with the results I got from my Ryobi portable. I adjusted carefully and spent on an after-market miter gauge, shop-built cross-cut sled and good quality blade,more than I did on the saw itself. Now I am comfortable, if not satisfied with my results until I can buy that top-quality cabintet saw and other stationary equpment. I am a network engineer who longs to work wood for a living, and my compliments to those of you who do so!

-- If you think healthcare is expensive now, wait until it's free! PJ O'Rourke

I’ve seen a post somewhere where the poster stated that his first tablesaw was a circular saw, upside down in a milk carton, with a clamped 2×4 for a fence! I haven’t seen any pics from your shop, or projects posted, so we really don’t know just what you want a tablesaw for. Are you making cabinets or intricate little boxes? My first tablesaw was a post-war Rockwell with a slightly warped fence. I made jigs. I made outfeed tables. And I found out that MDF is about the worst stuff you can use for these. As Tom(mot) said…It will sag over time. See, people tip these saws over because there’s no support for their workpiece. Check out Lee Jesberger for a neat feed table. Go visit with Todd A. Clippinger for some outfeed tables that also serve as project centers. Like Tom Keegan just stated, everyone here is eager to give advise. But we need more input from you. You might find out that your saw is just out of adjustment and might turn into a good tool for you. At least until you can afford that new PM200!

-- Bob Vila would be so proud of you!

Some of my projects are in my flickr page here.

-- -> Malta, IL www.flickr.com/rockomccombs -<

Hello again,

Just wanted to give you fellow jocks an update on my table saw woes….
I’m the proud new owner of a Unisaw X5. I need to collect a few parts before I can use it, but I’m certainly headed in the right direction.

Needs:
Fence & Rails
Blade insert
Cast wings
Blade guard/splitter and hardware
A 220v outlet

-Rocko

-- -> Malta, IL www.flickr.com/rockomccombs -<

Hey Dadoo, my first table saw was a giant tortoise shell with a cheese wheel for a blade. It was powered by a 1/8 scale 1859 steam locomotive and had a picket fence.

-- Check out my new website! http://www.blakeweberwoodworking.com

What kind of cheese?

-- Bob Vila would be so proud of you!

Spend the money on a good fence. You’ll be glad you did.

-- Thos. Angle