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2K views 12 replies 8 participants last post by  SignWave 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hey guys, in case you're not familiar with it, there's a saying about Texas weather: "if you don't like it, wait a bit and it'll change."
That may not be the case in summer. It's hot as hell every damn day. But the past few weeks, it's been really moody. Monday, it got to right around the freezing point, and by Thursday it was 70 degrees and really humid, Friday was about the same, until it rained and rained and rained, then today it dropped down to the 40's.
Well I just finished my work bench, and that's my first major project to not be kept indoors (it's in the garage), and it's also the first thing I haven't finished with lacquer or varnish (I used several coats of Danish oil).
With all the changes in temperature and humidity, I've already noticed some of the glue seams starting to stick out.
Do you guys think I have anything to worry about with it being out there? I'd hate for it to warp or swell all to hell after all the work I put into it.
 
#6 ·
Kenneth, sealing a piece doesn't stop movement, it just slows it down. If the work bench was constructed appropriately, e.g. no cross grain joints, you should be fine with the Danish oil because all the parts will expand and contract together at the same rate.
I disagree, a good film finish on all sides really minimizes it, and usually b4 humidity gets in, the humidity drops and with a good film finish it off sets those times.
You could go fancy and A/C the garage.
 
#8 ·
Dang, now you've got me worried. It has breadboard ends. I've been doing woodworking on a more commercial scale (in a custom cabinet shop) for about five years, but now as I'm shifting more toward woodworking for pleasure, I'm learning a lot more about it. So I've only recently read about wood movement, and how it can cause problems. What's the worst case scenario?
And for future reference, I've read about floating tenons for breadboard ends, but are those not supposed to be glued?
 
#9 ·
Besides being porous, wood is hygroscopic; it absorbs and releases moisture. Wood will absorb and give off moisture as the atmosphere around it changes in humidity levels; the end grain absorbs water more than the surface. I agree that finish slows this moisture exchange, helping to stabilizing the wood, but it doesn't eliminate it.

The thicker the coating of any finish, the better it limits moisture exchange. I've used the old traditional method as you did - Danish/tung oil [or a mixture of boiled linseed oil and gum turpentine (50/50 mix)] which will soak deep into the fibres and seal them quite well; it will still allow the wood to 'breathe.' So, if your bench is subject to big humidity swings, I'd suggest you apply a heavier finish and reapply once a year…more is better.
 
#11 ·
I'm guessing that the glue seam problem is "glue creep", you must have used a PVA glue which is very prone to creep. Like knothead said every state in the union has that saying.
 
#13 ·
I'm in N. Tx and my laminated workbench lives in a non-climate controlled space. I made mine with construction lumber (Fir) and glued it with TB2. A couple of times during the first year, I noticed that the wood was higher in the glue lines and lower in between. The overall surface was still relatively flat, but with these variations, if that makes sense. It didn't warp overall.

I hit it with a #4 smoothing plane to re-level it. It happened again a few months later, but not as much. It seems to have settled down and the uneven spots are mostly due to me abusing it. Bottom line is it's a workbench, and you're going to need to true it up from time to time. But a laminated top should be pretty stable overall.

FWIW, I also used danish oil on mine, but a single coat. I reapply when I true up the surface, usually.
 
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