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Lumber--from tree to workshop question

1K views 14 replies 10 participants last post by  mojapitt 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I imagine this is a not-uncommon question and there are probably forum threads devoted to it. I didn't see any so please forgive me if it is a redundant post.

I am curious what it takes (preparation and duration) to get hardwood to a condition whereby it can be used for projects from a living tree-state to a milled-lumber state. So, for example, a friend of mine had to chop down a black walnut tree over the weekend and he now has many nice sections of tree (bark still on). They are probably a few feet each in length. If I were to be given a few of these chunks, what steps would I need to do to refine it down into usable boards? How long would it take and is it even worth it? What portion of the tree would be the usable part (i.e. the darker heartwood or anything below the bark?) Any other information or resources here?

Thanks in advance,
David
 
#2 ·
Yikes this is a big topic!!!
in general you want to let the wood dry out as slow as possible . I do this by painting the ends of the wood with any old latex paint. Depending on the climate you live in it can take from months to years to have the wood dry out naturally.

Some people Mill the lumber green and send it to a kiln ( like a big oven ) to get dried out.
If you have access to a mill you can pay them to process the wood for you . this would most likely get you the most amount of useable wood.
If you prefer to do it your self, you can get a "portable mill" like a beam machine or a grandberg mini mill but you will need a REALLY beefy chainsaw and some strong arms!!!!

Good luck!!!
 
#4 ·
I was talking to my lumberyard today about me having to take down some ash trees on my property and he mentioned they have a bandsaw mill that they offer as a service. He doesn't do kiln drying but does know someone who does. I also know the woodmizer web site has a list of local sawyers that would either do it on site or you could take the logs to them for processing. You will have to judge if the amount you would get out of it would be worth the cost of milling or not.
 
#5 ·
Most mills have a minimum length requirement. The fellow I use is 42".
Check that first.

Its a shame he whacked it up into small pieces like that.

Some people use the sapwood, some don't its up to you.

After its cut, you sticker it air drying can take up to 2 years depending on the thickness and climate.
 
#6 ·
Can I piggyback a question on the topic? I have four small sections of a maple trunk, some of which (I suspect) contain nice burl. These sections are 16"-20" wide by 24"-30" long. Currently, they are sitting under my deck with the ends painted.

I have no chainsaw, my bandsaw is a 12" Craftsman (in great shape but with limited resaw capacity), and my table saw is a Grizzly 1023RL. I could probably find an axe (if needs be) but I've never used one before. I also have a Ryobi saber saw and a garden-variety handsaw.

With this equipment (or cheap additional tools), is there anything I can do with these trunk sections?
 
#7 · (Edited by Moderator)
Can I piggyback a question on the topic? I have four small sections of a maple trunk, some of which (I suspect) contain nice burl. These sections are 16"-20" wide by 24"-30" long. Currently, they are sitting under my deck with the ends painted.

I have no chainsaw, my bandsaw is a 12" Craftsman (in great shape but with limited resaw capacity), and my table saw is a Grizzly 1023RL. I could probably find an axe (if needs be) but I ve never used one before. I also have a Ryobi saber saw and a garden-variety handsaw.

With this equipment (or cheap additional tools), is there anything I can do with these trunk sections?

- ADHDan
Short answer: No.

Splitting is out of the question, so forget the axe ;-)
Most sawmills can't handle logs that short.

Bandsawing with a sled would be best. Perhaps you could locate someone with a bigger machine?

My advice is rent a chainsaw and build some kind of rack to hold it and make whatever cuts you want to do.
If you want dimensional lumber, you could saw them down the middle, do some rough flattening, and use your bandsaw.

You could also opt to 1/4 saw once you open the wood up you'll see what you've got. May be spalted if its been sitting under your deck very long?
 
#8 ·
If you have a Harbor freight somewhere close you can pick up a cheap eletric chainsaw. About 50 bucks. A small 14inch one , and alot of patience will get you though. Id be hesitant to try with just the tools you mentioned, but a cheap chainsw will do you wonders.
 
#9 ·
OP, let people know where you are. Maybe someone reading this is close and will help you mill it. I use a Granberg Alaskan mill and a chainsaw to mill into 2" slabs. They are cheap and this is a great excuse to get one. Coat the ends with Anchorseal (available from Amazon if you're just getting a little) to prevent end checking. Stack the slabs with lengths of 1×2 between them in the backyard on some cement blocks with more cement blocks on top of the stack and a tarp over the stack to keep the rain off but with the sides of the stack exposed. Give it about 6-9 months like that then move the slabs into your attic for another 6 months or so and you'll be dry enough for use on inside projects. 2" stock stays flat more reliably than 1" stock and you can resaw it to the thickness you need later and have plenty of material.
 
#10 ·
OP, let people know where you are. Maybe someone reading this is close and will help you mill it. I use a Granberg Alaskan mill and a chainsaw to mill into 2" slabs. They are cheap and this is a great excuse to get one. Get the type that clamps both ends of the chainbar. Coat the ends with Anchorseal (available from Amazon if you're just getting a little) to prevent end checking. Stack the slabs with lengths of 1×2 between them in the backyard on some cement blocks with more cement blocks on top of the stack and a tarp over the stack to keep the rain off but with the sides of the stack exposed. Give it about 6-9 months like that then move the slabs into your attic for another 6 months or so and you'll be dry enough for use on inside projects. 2" stock stays flat more reliably than 1" stock and you can resaw it to the thickness you need later and have plenty of material.
 
#11 ·
Thanks for the advice. I'm sure I can scrounge up an electric chainsaw somewhere. With a little tuning and a good resaw blade my bandsaw actually can handle a 5-6" cut pretty well, so a few strategic cuts and a little flattening might do the trick.
 
#12 · (Edited by Moderator)
I scavange the remains from local tree-removals: usually 18" - 20" that range from 10" to 20" in diameter. Short stuff, but if you don't get why someone would go this route I cannot explain it and have it mean anything. My point, though, is that with my 14" Jet BS I quarter-saw, paint the ends, sticker, and air dry under a few bags of portland cement. A box fan on a timer keeps things moving, and after one year for each inch I have material that means something to me. I'm not a lumberjack with special training, rather I work hard and through online resesrch and trial & error have developed practices that work, meaning that if this city boy can do it anyone can.

Re: axes and such…sometimes I will use a maul and splitting wedges to get real wide stuff into manageable size. Sometimes I get the result that I want and sometimes I get hand-worked firewood, but the takeaway is that mills and even chainsaws are not indispensible if you're patient, ambitious, and not a weakling.
 
#13 ·
Re: axes and such…sometimes I will use a maul and splitting wedges to get real wide stuff into manageable size. Sometimes I get the result that I want and sometimes I get hand-worked firewood, but the takeaway is that mills and even chainsaws are not indispensible if you re patient, ambitious, and not a weakling.

- fuigb
Yeah an axe isn't going to get you far, but I've also used splitting wedges on decent size pieces from the trunk of a tree and gotten useable pieces.

For the OP, it's too bad your friend let them cut the pieces so short. Wood checks and splits from the ends, so short pieces will mostly be lost to checking. I realize tree services cut them that way on purpose to be manageable sizes. You may have some luck splitting the pieces into quarters and drying them that way, or you can cut bowl blanks out of them if you have a lathe.
 
#14 ·
@tim

I don't have problems with checking on .my shorts. I'll plank my findings while they're still literally smoking from the tree service's execution. I paint the ends with whatever near-dead latex paint is around and that's it. Stcker, stack, and bags of cement mix. Checking that you experience/ hypothesize occurs in kiln dried stock? Or maybe I'm just lucky?
 
#15 ·
Lots of factors go into this, lots of variables. I take it from the tree to the finished product. It's very enjoyable, but not easy. Different wood takes from months to years. In a perfect world, next year I will build my own kiln.
 
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