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Need help on making drawer box fit in cabinet

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Forum topic by tsdahc posted 11-23-2015 03:17 PM 602 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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tsdahc

107 posts in 1818 days


11-23-2015 03:17 PM

Topic tags/keywords: roll out drawer box

So I had a coworker who wanted some pull out drawers for a base cabinet. He measures everything, I measured everything. Built the roll outs out of 3/4 maple with half blind dovetails. Install the top rollout, no issue, install the bottom drawer, hits the hinge on one side. Looks like it is 1/16 or so that needs to come off the side of the roll out.

Looking at moving the hinges up 3”, route a dado for the hinge, or make the drawer on that side 1/16” thinner.

Figured out that when he measured and I measured, he removed the doors so I could get in there easier, the part he removed added about 1/4 to the opening. Only the bottom rollout has a hinge on the way.

Looking for suggestions? Moving the hinges up above the drawer is an option, although I don’t think it would look as nice when the doors open, cutting a dado in the drawer side would also clear it, but again would detract from the look.

I think I want to take down the side of the roll out just looking for suggestions on how to do this? Jointer and hand plane, but I’m worried it would break the half blind dove tails. Could use a belt sander and back up the dovetails with a backer board. Just harder to get a consistent thicknes like with a plane.


11 replies so far

View WoodNSawdust's profile

WoodNSawdust

1417 posts in 643 days


#1 posted 11-23-2015 03:27 PM

Many times I will build a drawer too wide intentionally. When it comes time to install I will run the drawer sides (both) through the joiner the slice off small quantities (about 1/64) till I get the width exact. After the drawer is installed I then add the false front.

-- "I love it when a plan comes together" John "Hannibal" Smith

View JoeinGa's profile

JoeinGa

7487 posts in 1474 days


#2 posted 11-23-2015 03:35 PM

I think cutting a dado for the slider to sit in would be the best option, if the drawer-front is wide enough to hide the dado when the drawer is closed.

-- Perform A Random Act Of Kindness Today ... Pay It Forward

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tsdahc

107 posts in 1818 days


#3 posted 11-23-2015 03:41 PM

Thank you for the replies. These are roll outs that go in a base cabinet. I’m using Blum undermount so there’s no slide on the side. I couldn’t test the fit as the cabinets were installed in his house. I set up a mock up and everything fit perfectly. It was because the hinges weren’t installed that threw the measurement off.

This is what the roll out looks like, the slides mount on the bottom.

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JoeinGa

7487 posts in 1474 days


#4 posted 11-23-2015 03:44 PM

Ah ha. I see, I see. So now it looks like you have two choices …

1. Make a new drawer from scratch.
2. Carefully cut one side of this one off (making the drawer narrower) and forget about having dovetails on one side.

-- Perform A Random Act Of Kindness Today ... Pay It Forward

View johnstoneb's profile

johnstoneb

2147 posts in 1639 days


#5 posted 11-23-2015 03:46 PM

x1 WoodNSawdust

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

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tsdahc

107 posts in 1818 days


#6 posted 11-23-2015 03:55 PM

The roll outs are already assembled and glued. Is it possible to run them threw the jointer and not snap off the dovetails? I have a helix power magic jointer. I am afraid it will snap the small piece at the back of it off. I really don’t want to rebuild these things as it’s 44” wide, 21” deep and 5.5” tall and 3/4” thick. I’m heading over to his house at lunch to check it out, I’m hoping I can adjust the drawer to the side that clears enough, he installed them so I’m hoping it’s just install error.

View jumbojack's profile

jumbojack

1667 posts in 2091 days


#7 posted 11-23-2015 04:00 PM

I too would run this over the jointer. First run the dovetail section a few inched past the DTs then turn and run clear through eliminating the blow out. This should be an easy fix.

-- Made in America, with American made tools....Shopsmith

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WoodNSawdust

1417 posts in 643 days


#8 posted 11-23-2015 04:10 PM

+1 to jumboJack’s method.

-- "I love it when a plan comes together" John "Hannibal" Smith

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tsdahc

107 posts in 1818 days


#9 posted 11-23-2015 04:20 PM

I have a test drawer at home. Think I’ll try the jointer method on it and see how it goes. I’ll set the depth to 1/64, maybe clamp a backer board to try and reduce blow out. Hope it works, do not want to rebuild this drawers. Definitely eats into any profit I made on them to rebuild.

View ElChe's profile

ElChe

630 posts in 803 days


#10 posted 11-24-2015 02:42 AM

Handplane? I fit drawers with a handplane. But I don’t woodwork for $. On the jointer do what was suggested above and run the dovetail first a couple of inches. Turn off jointer. Flip it and joint from other side making sure you press down on the drawer side on outfeed table. This will reduce risk of blowout. Good luck

-- Tom - Measure twice cut once. Then measure again. Curse. Fudge.

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tsdahc

107 posts in 1818 days


#11 posted 11-24-2015 10:48 PM

I went to the guys house and looked at what his issue was. We decided to not touch the drawers and to instead move the hinges on the doors up 3 inches. His hinges would require me taking off 1/4 – 3/8 on each side of the drawer. If we left the hinges where they were I would have to build a new drawer and mill another set of blocking runners. Problem is he glued and screwed his blocking runners in before testing the fit of everything. Anyways, thanks for all the help.

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