PC7 or Titebond III for Solid Edge Banding around Plywood Circle?

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Forum topic by Keith Kelly posted 11-23-2015 05:48 AM 602 views 0 times favorited 3 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Keith Kelly

215 posts in 1080 days

11-23-2015 05:48 AM

In another thread, you’ve been giving me advice on this lazy susan.

I’m about to attach the edge banding, and I’m trying to determine which glue to use.

Potential problems:

Tension of ends:
The ends have a decent amount of tension/strength pulling away from the plywood. For this reason, I’m thinking the PC7 epoxy, but I have no experience with it.

Excess squeeze-out in corner:
I really don’t want to trash up the project by getting black glue on the maple surface, so for this reason I’m thinking TBIII.

Do you guys have any thoughts?

-- Keith - Bolivar, Missouri,

3 replies so far

View MrUnix's profile (online now)


4018 posts in 1615 days

#1 posted 11-23-2015 06:23 AM

I don’t have any advice really… but when I saw banding, I instantly thought of contact cement like used for counter tops. I know it takes quite a lot of effort to remove, even the thin edge strips. Maybe something worth considering as well.


-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View AlaskaGuy's profile


2391 posts in 1725 days

#2 posted 11-23-2015 06:59 AM

I have never done this so it just an idea for you to explore/research.

It’s called hot pipe wood bending. It’s for bending thin wood and if it works it may lessen the spring back and make gluing and clamping easier. As I understand it this method is use on shaker oval boxes a lot.

This is the idea

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View libra's profile


1 post in 332 days

#3 posted 11-23-2015 07:56 AM

If you don’t want to use the epoxy you have, you might try EA-40 bow epoxy from smooth on. I’ve never used it, but it’s common for bow makers. Dries clear.

Generally, I use West System marine epoxy with either the slow or fast hardener, depending on how much mix pot life I need. Pot life also depends on the temperature of the environment in which I’m working. Epoxy hardens faster at higher temperatures. Unfortunately, that means that as the epoxy starts to harden, it gets warmer by chemical reaction, which causes it to harden even faster in the pot (positive feedback). I sometimes will cool the 2 parts in the fridge before I mix them to increase pot life. Some guys use crushed ice to keep the mix pot cool as the glue is applied. Lots of tricks. Should be strong enough. West System dries pretty clear, depending on how fresh the hardener is. (gets amber with age). It makes repairable joints, so if you leave a hole, you can fill it. Waterproof.

Tb1, 2, &3 glues turn to plastic as they harden. Weirdly, they don’t stick to plastic, so they won’t stick to themselves. You get one chance at a glue up like this. After that, coated pieces have to be taken apart and cleaned before you can try again. (vinegar + acetone as I recall dissolve it). I don’t know any tricks to increase the working time. You can’t fill holes after the glue sets unless the holes are free of glue. I do know that it makes really strong bonds. Tb3 dries sort of brownish. Both 2 & 3 are supposed to be waterproof, with 3 being more waterproof.

Our home lazy Susan’s are made from ~1/16” layers of maple. The edge is almost 1/2” wide. There’s a 90 degree cut out so that it works with a corner cabinet. The bearing has a detente that retards the rotation when the thing aligns to the cabinet opening. (Allows the doors to close.) Sort of looks like this

I’d probably use the West System epoxy with the slow hardener. This will give an hour or more to fool around with it before it hardens.

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