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How do you make a Czech Hedgehog joint?

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Forum topic by jacobem3 posted 11-23-2015 05:06 AM 1686 views 1 time favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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jacobem3

30 posts in 1147 days


11-23-2015 05:06 AM

I saw this table on RoomsToGo and I’m trying to figure out how you would make the joint. Any ideas?

I’m not sure what the real name of it is, but it reminds me of the Czech Hedgehogs zi Germans laid on the beaches at Normandy.

Thanks!
Jacob


5 replies so far

View jerryminer's profile

jerryminer

713 posts in 1135 days


#1 posted 11-23-2015 07:43 AM

One possibility: half-lap the first two pieces, then M & T the other parts, offsetting the tenons, and sizing them to leave enough structure in the original (half-lapped) pieces.

-- Jerry, making sawdust professionally since 1976

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HerbC

1660 posts in 2553 days


#2 posted 11-23-2015 08:28 AM

Take a look at this blog by a woodworker named Justin. He’s built a table with a similar joint design…

-- Herb, Florida - Here's why I close most messages with "Be Careful!" http://lumberjocks.com/HerbC/blog/17090

View whope's profile

whope

139 posts in 2139 days


#3 posted 11-23-2015 12:33 PM

You’ll have to rummage through the article: http://www.dezeen.com/2011/11/07/chidori-furniture-by-kengo-kuma-and-associates/

Not sure of the strength if tilted.

-- Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an axe.

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ARivingHome

2 posts in 609 days


#4 posted 11-23-2015 05:22 PM

Hi Jacob, I’m the blogger that Herb linked to up above. The joint in my table is just a series of half-laps, which gives a result that is similar, but not identical, to the joint in your picture.

What kind of table are you looking to build? A side table? Or a dining table? The reason I ask is because (as whope alluded to) the stresses on the joint may be pretty severe given the fact that all of the members will be under tension, which is not the case in the chidori furniture that he linked to. It’s not possible to build the joint as pictured and keep more than 1/3 the thickness of any member at the joint. So on a dining table, which gets leaned on and generally abused, any possible solution might be too weak unless you scale up the dimension of the legs to be pretty beefy. By offsetting slightly, which is what I did, you get 1/2 the thickness of each member at the joint (so, 50% more material), plus the joint is much simpler to cut.

On something that doesn’t take quite so much abuse, like a side table, you may be able to get away with doing what jerryminer suggested, but I doubt it would be sufficiently robust for a dining table.

I suspect the Rooms to Go table has some sort of hidden hardware involved, but who knows?

-- Justin, Fernandina Beach, Florida http://arivinghome.wordpress.com

View jacobem3's profile

jacobem3

30 posts in 1147 days


#5 posted 11-24-2015 03:00 AM

Hi Justin,

It’s for a kitchen table similar to the one you built for your kitchen. Your design looks better than the commercial version and much better than I would have imagined it based on a written description alone.

Thanks, and thanks for all the fast responses!

Jacob

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