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Adjusting blade parallel to miter slot

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Forum topic by Julian posted 11-18-2015 04:15 PM 632 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Julian

1039 posts in 2157 days


11-18-2015 04:15 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question tablesaw

I recently purchased an used Jet Exacta (3hp) table saw from an ad on Craigslist. It is very heavy (~450lbs) and to get it into my van by myself I disassembled the fence, both wings, and the table top. After I got it home and reassembled I had to realign the blade to the miter slot. This took me over an hour to get it within .005” (blade parallel to miter slot). The saw was set at the factory at .003” (info. provided in the manual).
The saw is on a mobile base but I had the wheels locked. Anyone have suggestions how this could have been done quicker?

-- Julian


6 replies so far

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MrUnix

4244 posts in 1666 days


#1 posted 11-18-2015 05:51 PM

How did you do it Julian? If you aligned the blade to the miter slot, then thats bass-ackwards :)

To align the miter slot to the blade, you just need to loosen three of the 4 bolts holding on the table, give it a few whacks with a rubber mallet or soft faced dead blow hammer, then tighten them back down once you get it zeroed in. Once that’s done, you then align the fence to the miter slot. Shouldn’t be more than a 10 minute job at most.

I do notice that the manual says to loosen all 4 bolts… don’t do it… loosen three and leave the fourth one pretty snug to act as a pivot point. Oh, it also helps to tighten them back up a little at a time going from bolt to bolt – as sometimes tightening them down at once will inject a little movement… just something to keep in mind.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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HokieKen

1807 posts in 605 days


#2 posted 11-18-2015 07:38 PM

An hour to dial the alignment within .005 is not unusual for me on my contractor’s saw. It should be easier on your cabinet saw but alignment is never simple and I wouldn’t loose any sleep over spending an hour on it. Like Brad, said above, leave 1 bolt tight as a pivot. Tighten bolts down a little at a time in an “X” pattern and double check your alignment before the last torquing of the bolts.

How did you measure the alignment? A dial indicator on a jig that rides in the slot is my method. You have to make sure your jig is TIGHT in the slot but doesn’t bind though. Not getting consistent accurate measurements can make the process much harder and longer.

I don’t know if you’ve aligned your fence yet. But, be aware of error stack. If your blade is .005 out from your miter slot and you align your fence to the miter slot within .005, you could be .010 out between the fence and the blade. Of course you could be dead-on too depending on the direction of the error. Just try to make sure that whatever misalignment there is between the blade and the fence ends up with the wider gap at the rear to prevent pinching.

That is one fine looking saw BTW. Depending on what you paid for it, you might have earned a “You Suck”!

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

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Julian

1039 posts in 2157 days


#3 posted 11-21-2015 01:42 AM

I loosened only 3 bolts that held the top to the cabinet to align the “miter slot to the blade”. I think the mobile base made this process harder because some of the blows from the dead blow hammer moved the entire saw. The wheels on the mobile base were locked but if I ever have to do this again I will wedge the wheels. Adjusting the fence was a piece of cake. I used a dial indicator with a jig that fit tightly in the miter slot.
Found this saw on Craigslist for $1,500; good deal but not cheap.

-- Julian

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HokieKen

1807 posts in 605 days


#4 posted 11-23-2015 07:24 PM

Sounds right to me Julian. That’s how I would have done it and with the exception of chocking the wheels like you mentioned, I’m not sure that anything other than experience will speed up the process. Hopefully, you (and I) will never gain that experience because realignment should be very infrequent. Congratulations on the new saw. Maybe not a “You Suck” but still a great buy on a saw that looks like it’s never been used!

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

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rwe2156

2198 posts in 947 days


#5 posted 11-23-2015 09:51 PM


If your blade is .005 out from your miter slot and you align your fence to the miter slot within .005, you could be .010 out between the fence and the blade.
- HokieKen
Ken, I could be wrong, but I usually align the fence to the blade, not the miter slot.

I have the exact same saw and have never made an adjustment on it in probably 15 years. (yes, I’ve checked it and its alway dead on) so once you get it set up, it should stay there forever.

Julian – you’ve got yourself a nice saw there (except for the POS blade guard/splitter—I ditched that right away – couldn’t believe Jet would make something that flimsy and cheap).

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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HokieKen

1807 posts in 605 days


#6 posted 11-25-2015 01:00 PM


If your blade is .005 out from your miter slot and you align your fence to the miter slot within .005, you could be .010 out between the fence and the blade.
- HokieKen

Ken, I could be wrong, but I usually align the fence to the blade, not the miter slot.
- rwe2156

So do I. But almost everything I’ve seen online and in manuals says to align everything to the miter slot because it’s fixed and can’t move. I also think a lot of people have an indicator and jig that rides the slot and that’s the most accurate way they can measure the fence alignment. But, your right, aligning the fence directly to the blade eliminates the error-stack.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

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