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Ridgid Bandsaw Fence/Table, etc...

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Forum topic by interpim posted 12-26-2009 08:17 AM 4656 views 1 time favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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interpim

1158 posts in 2925 days


12-26-2009 08:17 AM

Hi all,

I have had a Ridgid 14” bandsaw for a while, and I have finally got fed up with the stock blade it came with. I just put a 1/2” Timberwolf blade on order, and I expect it will be here in a week or two.

I’m not sure if I got the short stick or not when I bought this bandsaw, but It does not have a fence. I do see mounting holes on the front of the table to attach a fence though. Does anyone have any experience with fences that will fit the Ridgid BS14002 and could you please point me in the right direction. I think with the stability of a fence being set to the drift, i’ll be able to make more consistent cuts.

Also, one last thing (I promise). As far as auxiliary tables go, what is the recommended size in relation to the stock table. I understand that any more to the left of the table I go is going to restrict my tilt, but I honestly haven’t tilted the table once since I have owned the saw.

-- San Diego, CA


4 replies so far

View Alonso's profile

Alonso

949 posts in 2705 days


#1 posted 12-26-2009 08:55 AM

I own the same BS and I read on the Ridgid forum that the Kreg fence kit KMS7200 is a direct fit to most 14” BS, I hope soon to buy one. As far as auxiliary tables sizes I did extended mine 3” around, so now I have a 20” table instead of a little 14”. pm’ed me for pictures if you like.

Good luck

-- The things I make may be for others, but how I make them is for me.

View Rick  Dennington's profile

Rick Dennington

5183 posts in 2661 days


#2 posted 12-26-2009 09:09 AM

Grettings interpim:

I don’t have a Ridgid bandsaw, but I have a Delta 14”, and I might can help solve at least one of your problems. My saw came with a good fence, but to tell the truth, I hardly ever use it anymore. I built an oversized auxilary table, and use it all the time. I made mine out of 3/4” MDF. The table is about 20”wide x 26” long. I mounted a oak runner in the miter slot, then took it off, cut a 3/8” x 3/4” dado 6” in from the front of the table. Pushed the table through to cut the bandsaw slot about halfway through the table. Then fixed a 3/4” x 20 ” oak board to a miter gauge so it lays flat on the table, and would slide easily in the miter slot I cut.

I use this set-up all the time for most applications. And for re-sawing, it really works good, cause there’s hardly any drift. When i re-saw, I just clamp the miter gauge to the table to keep it from moving.
Here’s what it looks like. You can see the fence laying on the saw.://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu73/RickDennington/bandsawplanerroutertable.jpghttp

-- At my age, an "all--nighter" is not having to get up and pee...!!!

View drfixit's profile

drfixit

318 posts in 2611 days


#3 posted 12-26-2009 01:04 PM

I checked out you set up, thats pretty cool. I might have to do that with mine. The link got a little messed up in your post… http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu73/RickDennington/bandsawplanerroutertable.jpg

-- I GIVE UP!!!! I've cut this @!&*!% board 3 times.... its still too short!

View Rick  Dennington's profile

Rick Dennington

5183 posts in 2661 days


#4 posted 12-26-2009 04:45 PM

Greetings drfixit: Thanks for fixing the link. I don’t know what happened. It looked like it went through when I posted. Appreciate it. Yea—- the aux. table works really good for all sawing. I used MDF cause it is good and flat. I forgot to mention to interpim that I put on 2 coats of Danish oil also. It made the MDF look good!!! I haven’t tried to do the tilt thing, but then again I never tilt it, so no biggy….... keep on keeping on.

-- At my age, an "all--nighter" is not having to get up and pee...!!!

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