Making angle cuts

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Forum topic by alittleoff posted 11-16-2015 03:51 PM 703 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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541 posts in 1455 days

11-16-2015 03:51 PM

I want to know which way is best to make a 45 degree cuts on a 4 or 5 inch board? Standing on the edge with a miter saw, laying flat on a miter saw, or using a good miter gage and cutting it on the table saw. Which one do you use. I also need to know a good brand of saw blades and what no. Of teeth for my miter saw for making good smooth cuts. Something that won’t break the bank. Thanks in advance.

7 replies so far

View ChefHDAN's profile


1149 posts in 3028 days

#1 posted 11-16-2015 04:07 PM

Gerald, what are you trying to make, it’s not clear if you need to make a miter as if for a flat picture frame with 5” wide stock or if you need to cut a bevel for a box with 5” tall stock. The final application and the wood being used will help with suggestions

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

View Daruc's profile


460 posts in 1311 days

#2 posted 11-16-2015 04:14 PM

I think whatever way you’re more comfortable with, and which gives you a better cut. Both methods work.
I have a 15” Hatachi chop saw that cuts real nice with a 108 tooth blade so I stand up on edge.
The type of saw you’re using could also determine which method would give you a better cut.
Standing up against a cheap fence may not give you as square of a cut as laying flat could.

-- -

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244 posts in 1110 days

#3 posted 11-16-2015 04:20 PM

I use either a sled on the table saw or a 45 degrees template on the radial arm saw which I lock tight at 90 degrees . The blade is a 80 tooth DeWalt thin kerf. Better still to clamp the piece to sled or jigs.

-- PJ

View RogerM's profile


798 posts in 2577 days

#4 posted 11-16-2015 04:30 PM

Gerald -

I have had the most success with a table saw. First, calibrate the blade angle (for a bevel cut) with a Wixey digital gage (WR300 Type II – invaluable and usually under $30). Next, calibrate your miter gage to a perfect 90 degrees. And finally, get a Forrest Woodworker II blade for your table saw and make your cuts. I think you will be pleased.

I use an Incra miter gage but any consistently accurate miter gage will work fine.

-- Roger M, Aiken, SC

View alittleoff's profile


541 posts in 1455 days

#5 posted 11-16-2015 04:52 PM

What I’m doing is making a table. The skirt I guess you could call it is 5 inches. It goes all the way around the table. I find when I make a 45 degree cut on my miter saw, which is a 717 dewalt, I’m not getting a real good cut. I think it’s the blade. The saw has been set up and will make a good cut sometimes, other times no so great. I would like to get to where it will make perfect cuts. I get some splintering most of the time. I also have a good table saw with an incra miter gage I could use. I just wanted to know which way most people cut larger peices of wood and what blade to buy. Really for both saws. Thanks again for the answers.

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6643 posts in 1317 days

#6 posted 11-16-2015 06:35 PM

Forrest or Freud blades are good on both saws. I have been pleased with Freud’s Diablo line which is more affordable. For good crosscuts, get a crosscut blade with a high tooth count. For an all-purpose blade, I like the Freud 50T Combination blade. The same blade should work fine on both saws. However, for the best finish cut on the miter saw, a blade with a negative rake will leave a cleaner surface.

For your splintering problem on your miter saw, your problem may not be the blade. Try backing the cut up with some scrap material or making a zero-clearance insert for the saw’s throat. You might just see that tearout disappear. And there’s always some deflection when making bevel cuts with a miter saw in my experience. I think you’ll have better luck getting tight fitting joints right off the saw if you set up and make the cuts on your table saw.

Finally, you will probably never get a perfect cut on your miter saw. My preference on critical miter joints is to cut them a hair long and then fine tune them with a low angle block plane. That being said, if your talking about the apron when you say “skirt”, the miter joints won’t be visible so I wouldn’t loose any sleep over it.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View ChefHDAN's profile


1149 posts in 3028 days

#7 posted 11-25-2015 05:31 PM

For a 5” table apron with mitered corners I would use my TS beveled to 45* and cut with a crosscut sled.

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

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