HELP- gap forming during staining

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Forum topic by Sapper posted 11-13-2015 06:46 PM 716 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Sapper's profile


10 posts in 399 days

11-13-2015 06:46 PM

So i’ve glued and sanded my mahogany and maple table top. Everything came out tight and touching, no gaps and flush after sanding. After a couple rounds of Danish oil, a gap between two of my boards as formed. its roughly 6 inches long. Its soaking up stain and i’m not 100% but pretty sure through to the bottom of the table. Hopefully the pictures will show up and will give a good look at what i’m dealing with. How can I salvage1?

Thanks in advance.

6 replies so far

View AandCstyle's profile


2540 posts in 1679 days

#1 posted 11-14-2015 12:02 AM

Sapper, were the pieces glued together? Is one or the other being held in place (inadvertently) thereby preventing the wood from moving? I think you need to understand the root of the issue before a fix can be implemented. I guess you could try adding a thin, black epoxy from the top and sanding smooth, but try to determine why it happened first.

-- Art

View pintodeluxe's profile


4825 posts in 2235 days

#2 posted 11-14-2015 12:07 AM

Perhaps it was a glue starved joint. If long grain glue joints don’t get adequate glue, they can separate pretty easily. Did you use a spring joint or just straight edges off the jointer? I usually don’t mess with spring joints except for breadboard ends.

Good luck with your issue.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View the_other_ken's profile


21 posts in 2397 days

#3 posted 11-14-2015 03:59 PM

You could try wet sanding the top to create a slurry that you can then force into the crack. Use something like 320 wet and dry sandpaper and the danish oil and sand the top. The sawdust will mix with the danish oil and create thicker mixture which you can then force into the crack. You might have to do this a few times to fill the crack. Unfortunately, you will probably have to do the whole top as the wet sanding tends to fill the pores of the mahogany. This is not a bad thing, especially for a table top.

Another option might be to take an offcut of the mahogany and create some sawdust using 80-100 grit sandpaper. Then mix some danish oil with the sawdust to create a thin paste. You can then try forcing this into the crack. This might be a better option depending on how wide the crack is.

If the crack does run all the way through you can use a vacuum under the crack to suck the mixture down into the crack.

With any luck, this will create a slightly darker line where the crack is. ONLY YOU will notice this darker line and you will even forget about after a while.

Good luck and let us know how this turns out.

View ThomasChippendale's profile


244 posts in 354 days

#4 posted 11-14-2015 06:35 PM

Had similar thing happening to me when laminating 1\4 inch, bookmatched padauk table top over 3/4 inch thick birch plywood 21 inches wide. Filled the cracks with 5min epoxy stained with iron oxide powder, cannot tell there were cracks anymore and has not moved in a complete year. You will need to find the powder that matches your color the best. Heat the epoxy in the crack with a heat gun so it acts as a filler and a glue, scrape the excess before full cure, final sand with a block.

-- PJ

View Sapper's profile


10 posts in 399 days

#5 posted 11-16-2015 10:08 PM

Hey everyone. Thanks for the suggestions! Had a busy weekend and i’ll be attacking the problem tonight. i’ll let follow up on the post and shot everyone how it turned out!

View Sapper's profile


10 posts in 399 days

#6 posted 11-23-2015 08:50 PM

So i created a putty from glue, saw dust from both woods and the danish oil i was using. It turned out really well. Its a darker line but its filled and smooth as the rest of the table. I appreciate all the help!

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