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Forum topic by jamfu posted 11-12-2015 01:54 AM 813 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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jamfu

23 posts in 391 days


11-12-2015 01:54 AM

I am pretty new to wood working but have always liked it. I can now afford nicer tools and so i can actually start making good stuff. I bought an old JET jcs-10 today for 150 bucks from craigslist. the rear guide rail for the fence is gone, and i dont know where to start other than trying to get a factory replacement from JET. Also not sure if they will tell me to piss off cause its an old saw. Or do i upgrade to something decent but not crazy over the top? What are my options , and how do i even pick the correct fence system? Will any aftermarket fence fit? what should i look for? How do i size it? attached is the first piece ive ever really made . I think it is turning out good. i just hope i do a good job on the drawer. I am doing everything right now with a worksite craftsman tablesaw. miter saw and jointer. I made a dead on cross cut sled and boxjoint jig for the tablesaw it so that is making life easier. but there is only so much i can do with such a small table saw right now.
Thanks
Jim!
http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu233/jim_fuss/20151108_165722_zps84717e29.jpg!


14 replies so far

View Tedstor's profile

Tedstor

1625 posts in 2097 days


#1 posted 11-12-2015 02:08 AM

Rear Guide Rail…..$85.83.
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/rear-guide-rail-p-1780742.html?osCsid=67mk60uvrgb8as1fehctjkfrb1

OR….you can move into a new replacement fence. Delta T2, Vega, Shop Fox, Grizzly, Incra…...all can be made to fit. But even the Delta at $200 is twice as much as a new rear guide rail.

If the existing fence is in otherwise good working order…..I’d probably just replace the rear rail and start making sawdust.

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

4226 posts in 1663 days


#2 posted 11-12-2015 02:17 AM

What fence is on there? I’ve seen a couple different ones and who knows what a PO may have done. The rear rail linked to above by Tedstor looks like it could be replaced with a piece of square tubing from the hardware store and a little creativity. If it’s a t-square type fence, then the rear rail isn’t even needed. Post a picture.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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jamfu

23 posts in 391 days


#3 posted 11-12-2015 02:49 AM

I had to recruit a buddy to help me move the thing from its current location. So I will get it Friday after work. It is not a t square fence. From my understanding it is the standard cheapest jet face fence offered. The mechanism seemed to work fine just will not lock cause no rear rail. But I have no idea if the thing is still straight . I’ll have to put a dial indicator on it and run the fence down the side of my reference straight surface to check it

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jamfu

23 posts in 391 days


#4 posted 11-12-2015 02:57 AM

I had to recruit a buddy to help me move the thing from its current location. So I will get it Friday after work. It is not a t square fence I think. I know so little about them that I’m not 100% about what that really means though. From my understanding it is the standard cheapest jet face fence offered. The mechanism seemed to work fine just will not lock cause no rear rail. But I have no idea if the thing is still straight . I’ll have to put a dial indicator on it and run the fence down the side of my reference straight surface to check it

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jamfu

23 posts in 391 days


#5 posted 11-12-2015 11:01 AM

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-aluminum-hollow-tubing/=zry6jl

Im willing to bet this will work just as good for a third of the cost


Rear Guide Rail…..$85.83.
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/rear-guide-rail-p-1780742.html?osCsid=67mk60uvrgb8as1fehctjkfrb1

OR….you can move into a new replacement fence. Delta T2, Vega, Shop Fox, Grizzly, Incra…...all can be made to fit. But even the Delta at $200 is twice as much as a new rear guide rail.

If the existing fence is in otherwise good working order…..I d probably just replace the rear rail and start making sawdust.

- Tedstor


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Tedstor

1625 posts in 2097 days


#6 posted 11-12-2015 11:34 AM

That might work. Would aluminum be too soft?

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jamfu

23 posts in 391 days


#7 posted 11-12-2015 12:58 PM

I don’t think so. If it is I can get stainless or use steel.

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jamfu

23 posts in 391 days


#8 posted 11-13-2015 12:13 AM

i called JET today the rail is not available to buy anymore. ill have to make my own

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jamfu

23 posts in 391 days


#9 posted 11-14-2015 01:37 PM

So I got the saw in my shop. turns out it is a t square fence. so the rear guide rail could be almost made out of anything stiff and smooth. But i think the fence is toast. I found it does not clamp square to the blade and the measurement is out by about 1/4 too far when i measure from the blade and compare it to what the scale on the front rail says. the blade is parallel with the miter slots. so thats refreshing. but i found out why the fence isnt square.. see picture… But hell for 150 bucks a saw 2 sets of molding cutters and a wobble dado blade dado throat plate, and extension infeed table with conveyor rollers i think it was a major score. I just need to polish the top, and get a fence

View runswithscissors's profile

runswithscissors

2189 posts in 1489 days


#10 posted 11-14-2015 11:34 PM

Ordinarily a t square type fence doesn’t require a rear rail. But if you need to rip wide stock, requiring you to move the fence beyond the table limit (assuming the front rail is long enough to allow this), you will then need to have a rear rail.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

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jamfu

23 posts in 391 days


#11 posted 11-14-2015 11:56 PM

The rear rail is just a piece of square tube or angle that the end if the fence sits on so it slides easier. I have it as good as it is going to get. The casting is cracked. So I will need a new fence system or find a replacement for the factory one.
Jim

View ForestGrl's profile

ForestGrl

445 posts in 550 days


#12 posted 11-15-2015 05:53 AM

The Jet 10” contractor’s saw was my first, used it for 3 or 4 years. I would caution not to put toooooo much money into a fancy fence. While it’s a good saw to get started with, it has its limitations (mostly due to it being a contractor’s saw rather than cabinet, and [depending on what you find yourself cutting/building] a somewhat smallish motor)—a moderately priced, basic fence won’t come back to haunt you when you go to sell the saw later.

-- My mother said that anyone learning to cook needed a large dog to eat the mistakes. As a sculptor of wood I have always tried to keep a fireplace. (Norman Ridenour)

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jamfu

23 posts in 391 days


#13 posted 11-15-2015 11:14 AM

It’s a 230v 2hp cabinet saw. Definitely not a contract saw. But perhaps the same guts

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ForestGrl

445 posts in 550 days


#14 posted 11-15-2015 05:00 PM

Oh, sorry! That’s great! I didn’t read carefully I guess. Congrats. I have an older Unisaw, cab saw are a joy.

-- My mother said that anyone learning to cook needed a large dog to eat the mistakes. As a sculptor of wood I have always tried to keep a fireplace. (Norman Ridenour)

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