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Forum topic by ShaneS posted 1682 days ago 936 views 0 times favorited 30 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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ShaneS

35 posts in 2391 days


1682 days ago

Hello LJ’ers,

I am planning to build a table saw station but have a headache I have to work around. When my barn’s floor was poured it began to rain and they almost lost the floor, this is according to the original owner, due to this the barn floor is very uneven. I plan on the station being 8’ x 8’. In a 8’ span there can be as much as 1.5” of difference in the floor. The station is going to be very heavy with a table saw, router station and a bunch of drawers and cabinets to store a number of items. My concern is building the base “stout” enough to handle the weight. Honestly, I have already built something similar and have problems with it sagging, so I know the potential for big problems if the base is not real stout. Now since you know the boat I’m in, I thought I would throw my problem to the masses and ask, “If you were in my shoes, how would you build the base to handle the weight?” I am open to any idea’s so that I can weight all of them and feel confident I will come up with the right way to go once I’ve heard from all of ya’ll.

Thanks ahead of time for any help extended,
Shane

-- We laugh at honor and are shocked to find traitors in our midst. C.S. Lewis


30 replies so far

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cabinetmaster

10874 posts in 2162 days


#1 posted 1682 days ago

I would build the base using 4 X 4 legs with adjusters on the bottom to adjust to the unevenness of the floor. The number of legs would depend on how you design everything else. If I knew more of what you want and where I think I could help you more.

-- Jerry--A man can never have enough tools or clamps

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ShaneS

35 posts in 2391 days


#2 posted 1682 days ago

Thanks Jerry, when you say “if I knew more of what your want”, what kind of additional information do you need? I will be more than glad to explain further.

Thanks for your reply,
Shane

-- We laugh at honor and are shocked to find traitors in our midst. C.S. Lewis

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cabinetmaster

10874 posts in 2162 days


#3 posted 1682 days ago

Can you sketch out an example of what you are trying to do? I know you mentioned cabinets, router, etc. If you can sketch something out I will try to help you more.

-- Jerry--A man can never have enough tools or clamps

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thewoodmaster

55 posts in 1796 days


#4 posted 1682 days ago

Build an 8’x8’ frame out of 2×4’s. lay it on the floor where you want to put your TS station. fill the area with a self leveling concrete until the area is nice and flat. You may need to scribe the 2×4’s to the floor in order to keep the concrete from coming out the bottom.

dan

-- dan "insert pithy woodworking coment here"

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ShaneS

35 posts in 2391 days


#5 posted 1682 days ago

Thanks again Jerry. I don’t mean to be dense, but are you referring to Sketch-up or just hand draw something? I don’t know how to use Sketch-up so I guess that would rule that out. I began hand drawing, last night, but stopped cause I started thinking about this base problem and decided that I would post a question on LJ to see what others would do to attack this problem, so I do not have a drawing, at this time. I guess this question is more involved than what I realized it would be.

Shane

-- We laugh at honor and are shocked to find traitors in our midst. C.S. Lewis

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ShaneS

35 posts in 2391 days


#6 posted 1682 days ago

Thanks for your reply Dan. I did think along those lines but began to wonder if I would need to attach the new concrete pad to the barn floor and how much mixing that would involve. 8’ x 8’ would be a lot of concrete. The good side of doing this way would be that the base is attached to the floor and really shouldn’t go anywhere. Another thought is, would a pier and beam type base work?

Shane

-- We laugh at honor and are shocked to find traitors in our midst. C.S. Lewis

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Julian

880 posts in 2129 days


#7 posted 1682 days ago

I second the concrete idea. You don’t need a deep pour to correct the problem, so you shouldn’t need to mix too many bags. You’ll also end up with a solid smooth floor this way.

-- Julian, Park Forest, IL

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rcs47

182 posts in 1733 days


#8 posted 1682 days ago

Shane,

Assuming you will never want to move the cabinet/saw… I would use straight KD stock (1×4 or 2×6) that spans the the distance. Using wedges, level these boards, then scribe/cut them to the floor. This will give you a very stable base.

If you want to move it around your shop, then find a level spot, build your cabinet with space for leveling feet. Rockler carries a couple different leveling feet:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5217&filter=adjustable%20feet
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2053

If you look at Home Depot, Lowes, or Ace, you will find threaded feet (Rockler “polished nickel glides”) that can be used with tee nuts to level.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=388&filter=threaded%20insert
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=1592&filter=threaded%20insert

Good luck,

Doug

-- Doug - As my Dad taught me, you're not a cabinet maker until you can hide your mistakes.

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rtb

1099 posts in 2317 days


#9 posted 1682 days ago

Shane, I would listen to Jerry, when the day comes when you need to move it to a different location either in or out of your shop the adjusters woyld allow you to easily adjust to the new location.Sorry Dan, I just think that we’ve become to mobile to set in concrete. (pun intended)

-- RTB. stray animals are just looking for love

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ShaneS

35 posts in 2391 days


#10 posted 1682 days ago

Thanks Julian, if I did go this way what should be the starting thickness of this pad be? One side is going to be thicker than the other so how thick should the thin side be?

Thanks in advance,
Shane

-- We laugh at honor and are shocked to find traitors in our midst. C.S. Lewis

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ShaneS

35 posts in 2391 days


#11 posted 1682 days ago

Thanks for the replies. I really don’t see the station moving once it’s built but I guess one should always plan for anything being possible. As far as the levelers go, remember that I have already built something similar and I used Rockler levelers on that project and it did sag under weight. The station/table is 4’ x 8’ and I used 6 levelers, 3 down each 8’ span. Stating the obvious, I guess, I would assume that if I am going to use levelers then I would need to use more than I did or I would need to frame the base better than I did. One of the thoughts that I keep having is, if I use levelers then I am essentially using “legs” and legs do not seem as stable as they should/could be. As you can tell, I am new to projects and woodworking, so I apologize a head of time for my lack of understanding. Doug said to use KD stock, could someone please tell me what that is? Thanks

Thanks for all the replies,
Shane

-- We laugh at honor and are shocked to find traitors in our midst. C.S. Lewis

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rcs47

182 posts in 1733 days


#12 posted 1682 days ago

Shane,

Sorry, KD = Kiln Dried

I was trying to say not to use the wet 2x? from Home Depot. You want something that once you scribe it to the floor, it will stay that way.

You bring up a good point on the support. 3 support feet in 8’ on your old table, no wonder you had sag. When I was suggesting laying out the boards to scribe to the floor, my mental picture was one board every two feet because you were describing a heavy load. So, I was already at twice your original support. Using that same 2’ on center (both directions), I would have put 15 feet on your old table. Using the tee nuts and threaded feet is not expensive.

What material do you plan to use?

Doug

-- Doug - As my Dad taught me, you're not a cabinet maker until you can hide your mistakes.

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ShaneS

35 posts in 2391 days


#13 posted 1682 days ago

Thanks Doug, I did have the base framed with 2×4’s and they were on 2 foot centers. The Rockler levelers I put at each corner and one at four foot. As far as the material I plan to use, since I already used 2×4’s I was wondering if 2×6’s would be a better way to go or if I use 2×4’s then should I frame it better than before. I like the scribing idea cause that would allow the base to make total contact and that seem to make it more durable. Now the scribing part seems complicated. Getting the base level by cutting the angles correctly.

Thanks for taking the time to lend a hand Doug,
Shane

-- We laugh at honor and are shocked to find traitors in our midst. C.S. Lewis

View Julian's profile

Julian

880 posts in 2129 days


#14 posted 1682 days ago

If you are going on top of existing concrete, you can get away with about 1” for the thin side. I would also suggest using a bonding agent like this to ensure a good bond between the new poor and the existing floor.

-- Julian, Park Forest, IL

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ShaneS

35 posts in 2391 days


#15 posted 1682 days ago

Thanks Julian, I am sure glad you suggested the bonding agent cause I was wondering how I would bond to the existing concrete without drilling a bunch of holes and using re-bar. Also, thanks for answering the question on the thin side of the concrete. Something more to ponder now.

Shane

-- We laugh at honor and are shocked to find traitors in our midst. C.S. Lewis

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