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Need Advice-Bevel Ripping on a Table Saw With an Auxiliary Fence?

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Forum topic by gerrym526 posted 12-21-2009 04:24 AM 5004 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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gerrym526

272 posts in 3276 days


12-21-2009 04:24 AM

Topic tags/keywords: jig tablesaw

Guys,
Need to bevel rip (45 degree miter) on my table saw-a right tilt Unisaw model (blade tilts into the fence). I remember seeing somewhere how to do this by attaching an auxiliary fence to the saw fence, that allowed the mitered edge of the piece to be supported as it was cut.
Can’t find the article on how to use the fence-is the tilted blade partially buried? How to set up the auxiliary fence? How to cut?
Can any of you help describe this procedure?
Thanks in advance
Gerry

-- Gerry


5 replies so far

View kosta's profile

kosta

946 posts in 2822 days


#1 posted 12-21-2009 04:49 AM

if you are just ripping a bevel then you shouldnt need an auxiallary fence. I you have a beveled edge against the fence then you tape the cut off back onto the board so its supported

-- kosta Virginia Beach, VA http://www.kostasworkshop.blogspot.com/

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lew

11348 posts in 3223 days


#2 posted 12-21-2009 05:18 AM

Gerry,
How wide is the piece you intend to rip and what type of fence is on your saw? I would think with a Unisaw, can probably move your fence to the left side of the blade (facing the saw from the normal user position) if the piece you are ripping isn’t any wider than the area between the blade and the maximum left position fence. This will assure the waste will not get trapped between the fence and the blade.

If you are going to put the 45 degree cut on both edges, make sure the “wide” side is up on the second cut. If you put the “point” down, it may slip under the fence during the ripping operation and jam the piece or change the width of the ripped piece.

If you can’t move the fence to the left of the blade, you could clamp a straight piece of stock to the saw table top. The piece must be parallel to the blade and securely clamped. It should be thick enough to allow the piece you are ripping to butt up against it without the chance of riding up over it.

Hope this helps.

Lew

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

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NoSlivers

210 posts in 2558 days


#3 posted 12-21-2009 06:06 AM

Gerry, I’m not familiar with the Unisaw, but if you’re cutting toward the fence, with the beveled waste against the fence, you’ll want at least a thin layer of something in between. Also, I’d use a zero clearance insert so the workpiece won’t drop into the throat toward the end of the cuts (depending on the size of the workpiece). As far as how to mount it, you could do something like this depending on your usage you may not need the clamping portion. I use something similar myself, no complaints so far and it’s simple to build. The piece the clamp attaches to on this version will also keep the waste from getting caught on the blade and sent back toward you (hidden arrow).

-- If you don't have time to do it right, do you have time to do it twice?

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Ger21

1047 posts in 2598 days


#4 posted 12-21-2009 07:26 PM

I use the method your asking about all the time for cutting miters. The auxiliary fence only needs to be 3/4” thick. Before mounting the Auxiliary fence, cut a rabit into the bottom, about 1/8” deep, and 1/8 shorter than the thickness you’ll be mitering. So, if cutting 3/4” stock, the rabit should be 1/8” wide x 5/8” tall. This provides clearance so the cutoff piece doesn’t get trapped between the blade and shoot out the back.

Once the fence is attached, with the blade lowered, place your work against the fence and use it to draw a line along the fence where the blade is located. Remove the board. Now, with the blade at 45°, slowly raise it into the auxiliary fence. You want to be slightly below the line you’ve draw. I usually try to start 1/16” below the line, and fine tune from there. Lower the blade before adjusting the fence. Also, bury the blade enough so the carbide is completely hidden at the top.

Now, make a test cut, then adjust the fence as needed. I use rubber soled push blocks to apply downward pressure over the blade. You can also use a featherboard if your fence will allow it. If you see the blade cutting the edge of the board, then you’re cutting too much, and will get a curved edge.

Once you get it set up, it’s extremely fast, and very safe. Just be careful removing the small triangle cutoffs. The nice thing with this method, is that you can cut angles on boards that don’t have parallel edges, allowing you to miter many different shaped pieces.

-- Gerry, http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/index.html http://www.jointcam.com

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gerrym526

272 posts in 3276 days


#5 posted 12-21-2009 08:34 PM

Gerry,
Thanks for your description of the process. It was exactly what I was looking for.
Gerry

-- Gerry

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