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Forum topic by dominator1md posted 11-08-2015 10:47 PM 806 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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11 posts in 896 days

11-08-2015 10:47 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question oak finishing greene and greene arts and crafts

Ok Arts and Crafters out there. I built one A&C piece and am kind of satisfied with the finish. I have watched a lot of videos and have read a lot of information about faux finishes and traditional finishes. What are the rest of you using or how do you do it. I did fume my first piece but don’t know if I should have went longer with it. Was only in about 2 1/2 hours but wasn’t sealed well. What do you guys do? I would like to stay too the original finish not a huge fan of mixing stains and dyes, but would like to hear what the rest of lumber jocks have had success with.

Thank you,

-- Dominic, Severn,

6 replies so far

View AandCstyle's profile


3023 posts in 2220 days

#1 posted 11-09-2015 12:17 AM

Hey, Dominic, I like to spray my finishes and use water based because I don’t care to invest in explosion proof fans and lights, not to mention the fumes. Therefore, I use TransTint dyes and Target Coating products. Take a look at my projects to see if any appeal to you. I usually post the finishing schedule, but don’t hesitate to ask any questions. You can also look at pintodeluxe’s projects. Willie makes some wonderful stuff and uses Rodda finishing products. HTH

-- Art

View dominator1md's profile


11 posts in 896 days

#2 posted 11-09-2015 01:05 AM

the look of your end tables and the tile frame is what I am looking for. The frame a little darker that what I had in mind but I think it would start to grow on me. Do you fume at all? If you saw my blanket chest I fumed it and put some minwax cherry stain on and then rubbed it out with paste wax with 0000 steel wool like 15 mins after putting on stain. Haven’t really learned much about finishes. Just trying to learn as I go. Any advise or guidance would help.

-- Dominic, Severn,

View Woodmaster1's profile


918 posts in 2550 days

#3 posted 11-09-2015 01:59 AM

I use watco dark walnut stain and a wipe on poly. Pics are in my projects. My wood is quarter sawn red oak. I needed to match the 100 year old red oak trim that was refinished.

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3023 posts in 2220 days

#4 posted 11-10-2015 12:06 AM

Dominic, I fumed one item, but I wasn’t really happy with the outcome so I haven’t bothered again. You could try this on scrap:
1. Sand to your desired grit, maybe 220.
2. Apply a very dilute solution of TT honey amber in Target’s WR4000 (looks like weak tea), let soak in for a few minutes and wipe off.
3. Lightly hand sand with 320 or 400G
4. Apply (I spray) Target’s EM1000 with TT dark mission brown. Mix this fairly dilute and apply a second coat if needed to get the color you want.
5. If needed, lightly hand sand with 400 or 600G to knock off any nibs.
6. Apply (spray) 2-3 clear coats.

Another, probably better, option would be to follow Jeff Jewitt’s procedure.

-- Art

View pintodeluxe's profile


5618 posts in 2776 days

#5 posted 11-10-2015 02:07 AM

If you’re looking for easy, I would recommend an oil based stain and sprayed lacquer.
If you want fancy, 1+ Jeff Jewitt formula. It is a stain-over-dye technique for coloring white oak.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View splintergroup's profile


1976 posts in 1185 days

#6 posted 11-10-2015 02:49 PM

I fume (White Oak only).

Depending on your Ammonia strength, you should get a nice brown in a few hours with a well sealed setup and a small computer fan or whatever to aid circulation.

Recently (using ‘janitorial strength’ 10% Ammonia) I waited 12 hours to get where I wanted, my booth was fairly leaky (could tell by the smell). When every thing is buttoned up tight, it usually takes maybe 4-6 hours depending on the wood.

Typically I drape some plastic over saw horses and use sand to seal it to the floor, maybe 3’x3’x5’ volume and a quart of the Ammonia.

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