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Denatured Alcohol - Shellac

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Forum topic by monster1971 posted 11-06-2015 06:55 PM 549 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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monster1971

45 posts in 461 days


11-06-2015 06:55 PM

I want to apply Shellac (only) as my finish. I seem to remember reading somewhere ( Flexner) that with oily hardwoods, to minimize drying issues:

1. You could apply Denatured Alcohol to the wood.
2. then apply your Shellac ( de-waxed).

Is that right? Or do I have that mixed up w/ something else.

Thanks in advance.


11 replies so far

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Alexl

57 posts in 405 days


#1 posted 11-06-2015 06:57 PM

would that be any different than just cutting your shellac with a bit more DNA?

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

3942 posts in 1958 days


#2 posted 11-06-2015 07:59 PM

It sounds like whatever you refer to is suggesting that the initial use of DNA is to help clean some of the oils off the wood, making it a little less oily for the application of shellac(?). That makes sense, since it’s a common recommendation to clan the oils off even before gluing, or applying other finishes. I didn’t check the book, but can’t say that it would hurt anything to do what you want.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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monster1971

45 posts in 461 days


#3 posted 11-06-2015 08:21 PM

Yeah, in the end it can’t hurt. Thanks.

View ElChe's profile

ElChe

630 posts in 801 days


#4 posted 11-06-2015 08:22 PM

That’s my understanding as well in terms of oily woods. The denatured alcohol flashes pretty quickly and in my experience doesn’t raise the grain. I would suggest that if you are using something like bullseye dewaxed shellac that you cut it first by adding some denatured alcohol and mixing well. I find that it flows easier when brushed that way. The shellac in a can can be very thick.

-- Tom - Measure twice cut once. Then measure again. Curse. Fudge.

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monster1971

45 posts in 461 days


#5 posted 11-06-2015 08:51 PM

Elche, I did think about cutting the shellac but was shying away b/c on the instructions it specifically said not to. I am assuming you have done this and there were no issues?

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

3942 posts in 1958 days


#6 posted 11-06-2015 09:07 PM

It’s not a problem to cut the pre mixed shellac to whatever you want. Thin away…..

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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HokieKen

1767 posts in 603 days


#7 posted 11-06-2015 09:23 PM

I don’t see why you can’t cut the shellac as much as you want. It’s just DNA and shellac flakes to start with unless the brand your using has some other additive?

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View ThomasChippendale's profile

ThomasChippendale

244 posts in 397 days


#8 posted 11-06-2015 10:14 PM

Hi

I work a lot with Teak and oily woods and before glueing or finishing , I always wipe the surface with Acetone, it has always worked for me and yes there are issues about drying with oily woods but most importantly, its adhesion that counts, you can always wait for it to dry.

-- PJ

View Rick M's profile

Rick M

7922 posts in 1844 days


#9 posted 11-07-2015 12:16 AM

Shellac doesn’t care about oil, it will make no difference. In French polishing oil is used to lubricate the shellac. Turners mix oil and shellac to make friction finish. It’s why shellac is often used as first coat because it will bond to about anything.

-- http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

14940 posts in 2154 days


#10 posted 11-07-2015 02:12 AM



Shellac doesn t care about oil, it will make no difference. In French polishing oil is used to lubricate the shellac. Turners mix oil and shellac to make friction finish. It s why shellac is often used as first coat because it will bond to about anything.

- Rick M.

That has been my experience as well. I have applied shellac over mineral oil/wax and had no problems!

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View thirdrail's profile

thirdrail

54 posts in 2128 days


#11 posted 11-07-2015 02:48 AM

Be sure and use the “Green” version of DNA. Maybe 50 cents a quart more but is almost all DNA. Non green can have as much as 1/3 other solvents or water. Take a look at shellac.com. No connection, but good info.

-- Third rail

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