Cutech Benchtop Jointer Thought...

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Forum topic by daveborg98 posted 11-05-2015 08:56 PM 2933 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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24 posts in 597 days

11-05-2015 08:56 PM

Hello all,

I have a situation that I am trying to navigate and would like the experience of others to aid in that decision. I currently have a Ridge 6” Jointer JP0610 (the older grey body model) that I paid $125 for. It is in great shape with new blades and I recently refinished the tables.

The questions comes in the form of…would it be worth changing to the Cutech 40160-CT with spiral head for $290? I know the tables are shorter but there may be ways to overcome that. Most of what I use it for is under 48” and edge work.

Here are the facts as I see them….

Ridgid: Bigger/heavier, 3 blade cutter head, 6amp motor, already own and have it set up

Cutech: Smaller/easier to move, spiral cutter head, 10 amp motor

What are your thoughts?

8 replies so far

View pintodeluxe's profile


4853 posts in 2274 days

#1 posted 11-05-2015 09:05 PM

For me the Ridgid seems too small, so I really wouldn’t want a smaller jointer. If your stock is usually 4’ and under it may be okay. If you are leaning towards the spiral head, make sure it is a true spiral cutter with carbide inserts. Many segmented cutters are not actually spiral, and use HSS cutters.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View ChefHDAN's profile


805 posts in 2310 days

#2 posted 11-05-2015 09:08 PM

I have the grey jointer too, I would only trade up to go to an 8” or bigger. Smaller tables make large parts hard to work cleanly. Mostly depends on what you plan to use it for. If you’re mostly planning small projects and don’t see jointing a 5’+ board you could consider it. Keep in mind that the Ridgid and most all floor jointers are belt driven while the benchtops are direct drive, which is beaucoup LOUDER. Have you looked at the Byrd shelix head? Check out this thread if you feel you need a spiral head ,it would be the best way to go by improving your current tool and not reducing your capabilities.

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

View mahdee's profile


3548 posts in 1228 days

#3 posted 11-05-2015 09:10 PM

I would first check to see how much the blade replacement cost. I made a big mistake of not doing that and now it cost me $200 to replace my blades on steel city thickness planer. I think you will get the same exact result for both of them. As the size, weight and etc., it all depends on whether the smaller one would make any significant change is the space you have.


View daveborg98's profile


24 posts in 597 days

#4 posted 11-05-2015 09:14 PM

Those are some good points. I am still really new to woodworking and guess I got caught up in the “need” for the latest improvements. I read through the thread you linked to ChefHDAN and one thing stuck out. That was the question of do I think this will be the last jointer I own? I think it would be wisest to work on still and not be so wrapped up in tools/toys.

Now onto finding the right deal on a planer. :)

View rwe2156's profile


2190 posts in 941 days

#5 posted 11-05-2015 09:24 PM

First of all, be aware the big advantage the spiral head gives is face jointing so if you’re mostly edge jointing you won’t see much diff.

You better take a closer look at the Cutech I’m not very impressed with “12 two sided HSS inserts”.
I don’t see how that will give a better cut. I think its an advertising gimmick and my impression is the machine is cheap because it is cheap.

For comparison, the helical head on my 8” jointer has 40 – 4 sided carbide inserts.

You already got a smoking good deal on the Ridgid. Its a $600 machine new.

My advice: Stay with what you’ve got.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View ChefHDAN's profile


805 posts in 2310 days

#6 posted 11-05-2015 09:39 PM

Dave, for the $$$ and performance you can’t do better than the DW 735 planer,

I’d suggest you keep that as a baseline and watch for the grizz and some of the PM floor versions in the 15 to 20”.

I had the Rigid planer, (bought my whole shop when HD clearance’d the grey tools) but the snipe and lack of the head lock drove me nuts, got the 735 and love it. If you find a used on on CL (very rare) look at the bolts in the blade holders, if they are allen cap screws you’ll want to get the upgrade kit ($20) to convert it to the Torx screws which are easier to deal with.

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

View daveborg98's profile


24 posts in 597 days

#7 posted 11-05-2015 09:49 PM

I am looking at that Dewalt or I have a lot more looking to do though. Unless I can find a decent larger one used for a similar price.

View Doogle's profile


5 posts in 1983 days

#8 posted 08-24-2016 05:40 PM

Hey guys,

I’m the managing partner for Cutech Tool and being the new kid on the block will give you a little information that many people are not aware of yet on both the planers and jointer we sell. Most of this information is on our website but you may not pick up on it at first glance.

The discussion on the spiral versus helical heads on woodworking tools has been going on every since the spiral cutterhead was patented 10 plus years ago. The inserts are located in a spiral pattern on a staggered basis whereas a true helical head actually has the insert attacking the wookpiece at an angle.

The cutterhead we have on our machines is the second generation of this patent and now is a one piece extrusion(not segmented) which holds much closer tolerences from tip to tip from end to end. What most people are familiar with is the old Steel City segmented spiral cutterhead. That ended with Steel City as they quit selling the machines to Steel City and that is when I was able to convince the factory to let me sell them under my new brand. There is a very good reason that they only supply the inserts two sided so that the cutterhead supports the insert at a 90 degree angle for added rigidity on the insert instead of trying to match the angle on the insert to the angle on the cutterhead. The factory invested in the equipment to manufacture the inserts totally in house to also improve the quality of the inserts enabling them to create a much better finished product. We have the same style cutterhead on both the planer and jointer. The biggest advantage is it runs quiter and puts less strain on the motor than straight knife cutterheads and if damaged you can rotate the inserts or replace them much easier that changing a straight knife. Our 40200H model mentioned in the thread is the old Rigid TP 1300 design that was the workhorse for them then Steel City. It like the DeWalt 735 has snipe lock and we also offer it with Carbide inserts as well.

On the jointer as mentioned above the 32 inch table limits the you on length for a one man operation but my son and i have been able to do a very good job on some old barn would up to 9 feet long on a couple of projects but i will say it wasn’t easy lol. They have been making this little jointer for years under different brands and with the spiral cutterhead is much more rugged than you would think. It’s biggest benefit is it’s great for a small shop with limited room.

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