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Forum topic by Allison posted 12-18-2009 11:10 PM 1694 views 0 times favorited 19 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Allison

819 posts in 3264 days


12-18-2009 11:10 PM

Topic tags/keywords: mirrors drywall question

I have completely redone my bathroom, including tearing down a wall and making a new one. My dilemma is this. I now want to hang quite heavy mirrors up. I have them up now with those plastic UGLY mirror holders to the studs. We hate this. We would like to find out if there is a product that we could use that would actually “glue” the mirrors onto the new wall which is 90% drywall. We wanted to frame them but have not been able to come up with away of doing so that would look attractive with the few studs we made. I have been to every website and all my local stores. I can not find attractive mirror holder uppers. Sooo does anyone know of a product that would “hold” the mirrors up?
Thanks in advance

-- Allison, Northeastern Ca. Remember, Amateurs built the Ark. Professionals built the Titanic!


19 replies so far

View Les Hastings's profile

Les Hastings

1300 posts in 3238 days


#1 posted 12-18-2009 11:18 PM

Mirror mastic, you can pick it up at your local glass shop. But you will have to keep the mirrors supported well until the mastic dries. that should do it for you Allison.

-- Les, Wichita, Ks. (I'd rather be covered in saw dust!)

View rustfever's profile

rustfever

716 posts in 2775 days


#2 posted 12-18-2009 11:19 PM

There are several ‘mirror-holder-uppers’ available, including adhesive. Adhesive is the best, but with one caveate. You can never remove the mirror without ruining it. You must use an adhesive designed for mirrors, however.

There are some small metal channels that can be attached to the wall. You then set the bottom of the mirror into. You must still restrain the top of the mirror to keep it from tipping out.

A call to a good, full service glass company will give you more information.

-- Rustfever, Central California

View j_olsen's profile

j_olsen

155 posts in 2637 days


#3 posted 12-18-2009 11:20 PM

you could use mirror mastic—should be found at any of the big box stores or a glass supplier
be carefule using anything else such as liquid nails or rtv as it will interact with the backing on the mirror
used mirror mastic for a store install while i was working for a store fixture mfgr

-- Jeff - Bell Buckle, TN

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CharlieM1958

16243 posts in 3684 days


#4 posted 12-18-2009 11:24 PM

I imagine a liberal amount of construction adhesive (liquid nail) would hold, but I would never feel comfortable without have them mechanically supported.

What about making a hanging strip for top and bottom out of 1/2” plywood with a 1/4” rabbet cut on the back side to accept the mirror. Screw the strips into the studs, then come back and hide the hanging strips by applying a decorative frame over them.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

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Richforever

755 posts in 3185 days


#5 posted 12-19-2009 12:37 AM

French cleats are available in some hardware stores. They support a lot of weight. One would rest inside the other, and be fastened to the studs and the back of the mirror. Now might be the time to re-do a little of the drywall to make a strong support inside the wall.

Projects like this are no fun unless you have to re-do and/or improve them!

-- Rich, Seattle, WA

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mtkate

2049 posts in 2790 days


#6 posted 12-19-2009 12:59 AM

Are these mirrors without wooden frames? If they are framed, you just get those butterfly type studs (the kind that open inside the wall in the back and clamp to the wall). I have used them for real heavy hangs against drywall.

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SnowyRiver

51452 posts in 2946 days


#7 posted 12-19-2009 03:23 AM

If you have a frame on the mirror, you could just use those picture hangers that Home Depot or Lowes has that have the three nails that can be pounded into the sheetrock. They hold upwards of 100 lbs each. I have used those on a number of mirrors and they hold very well. You could even put one on each side on hooks on the frame if you thought the weight exceeded the hanger specs.

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

View bigike's profile

bigike

4050 posts in 2754 days


#8 posted 12-19-2009 04:19 AM

me i would use some mirror glue i think u can get at HD or like someone alredy said a glass shop and then frame them out with some nice cherry or red oak wood with a real nice bead and cove detail on the edges and a gloss poly finnish.

-- Ike, Big Daddies Woodshop, http://www.icombadaniels@yahoo.com

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

115202 posts in 3042 days


#9 posted 12-19-2009 04:41 AM

Sorry Charlie (no pun)
Don’t use liquid nails it can make your mirror deteriorate. The Mirror mastic is formulated not to do that.
Like was said earlier they sell metal french cleats that are strong and pretty flat.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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studie

618 posts in 2612 days


#10 posted 12-19-2009 04:56 AM

Others have said it, Mirror mastic. Just make support strips for the bottom & long flexy strips at an angle from the floor or wall to hold the top of the mirror till morning or about 12 hours. My house is filled with remodel stuff from jobs I did. One of my favorites is an old medicine cabinet frame above the bathroom sink. It’s an old wood frame with a door that has a mirror. I could not cut my wall studs out for the medicine box as wiring was there so I just nailed it to the wall. People come here and open the door only to see the wall behind it. When they ask about it I say what were you looking for & we all get a good laugh. I like Charlies idea, put a nice wood frame around it. A glass guy placed mirrors on a job of mine using a small J strip at the bottom of the mirror nailed to studs then using mirror mastic (looks just like silicone to me) he put the mirror on the J strip then tilted it up & pressed it to the wall. He then pulled it away for a minute to let the glue “flash” it makes it set up faster. He pressed it back against the wall & was done. While he was loading up his tools I went to look at the mirrors & found both had defects. He came to look & after cleaning said you’re right I’ll come back tomorrow with new ones, don’t worry I’ll pull these off tomorrow. I pulled them right away as I would have had to replace the sheet rock, I know that stuff is strong!

-- $tudie

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odie

1690 posts in 3305 days


#11 posted 12-20-2009 07:13 PM

I took mine down … not looking at me makes the bathroom look better.

-- Odie, Confucius say, "He who laughs at one's self is BUTT of joke". http://woodstermangotwood.blogspot.com/ (my funny blog)

View scrappy's profile

scrappy

3506 posts in 2896 days


#12 posted 12-20-2009 07:26 PM

I put mine up with those little metal clips. Then made a frame for it and releif cut a spot in back of the frame for the clips. That way it is only a small frame but the clips are covered.

Scrappy

-- Scrap Wood's the best...the projects are smaller, and so is the mess!

View LesB's profile

LesB

1237 posts in 2908 days


#13 posted 12-20-2009 09:33 PM

In the end it you mastic the mirror to the wall you doom them both because the mirror won’t come off without breaking and the wall will be damaged too. I guess you could just saw the mirror off the wall leaving the sheet rock attached to the mirror and save the mirror because the wall will need to be repaired in either case.
So. I would suggest figuring out a nice frame to mount the mirror in and then hang it.

-- Les B, Oregon

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papadan

1175 posts in 2834 days


#14 posted 12-20-2009 09:42 PM

Build a nice frame for the mirror and screw it into the studs. Cover the screw heads with a nice contrasing plug. If the screw/stud locations are not uniform or on the corners, add more plugs around the frame to even out the pattern and make it look right.

-- Carpenter assembles with hands, Designer builds with brains, Artist creates with heart!

View Todd A. Clippinger's profile

Todd A. Clippinger

8901 posts in 3565 days


#15 posted 12-20-2009 10:05 PM

I installed these two big mirrors with mirror mastic. The large one on the wall sits on top of the trim and the one on the entry closet is held only my the mastic. A wooden block held it up for a couple of days until the mastic was cured.

SV102449

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://americancraftsmanworkshop.com

showing 1 through 15 of 19 replies

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