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Forum topic by JeremiahD posted 11-02-2015 10:16 PM 1070 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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JeremiahD

5 posts in 404 days


11-02-2015 10:16 PM

Topic tags/keywords: help

Hello,

I’m excited that I found this site, and excited that I have entered into this world.
I am a Marine, and have found after multiple deployments, woodworking is a stress reliever much more productive than alcohol and bar fights. In a way, I believe this craft has saved me…

Ok, I’ve been doing home repair stuff for years, but nothing serious. Recently, I’ve bought, table saw, table top planer, router….awesome and newer tools. I’m excited and even started my first few projects, and run into these issues:

1. Pallet table: built before I bought planer, and now need to fill in gaps as there are spaces inbetween boards and thicknesses are not congruent. It looks cool, but what should I do to make surface smooth now. Suggestions? I’ve seen people use fillers. What kind?

2. Cutting board project. It looks bitchin, but after 3 days, the oil finish (salad bowl finish) is just a gooey coating. What do I do to make it right?

Thanks everyone.


15 replies so far

View BurlyBob's profile

BurlyBob

3697 posts in 1733 days


#1 posted 11-02-2015 10:48 PM

Welcome to our group. First, thank you for your service!! My son is a Devil Dog as well. All you need to do here is ask and I guarantee you’ll get answers, lots of them. If you need more detailed info from someone shoot them a message. It’s something I do quite often.

My Best,
BurlyBob

View BikerDad's profile

BikerDad

284 posts in 3069 days


#2 posted 11-02-2015 11:22 PM

For your pallet table, you could build a router sled to flatten it, multiple directions for both building and using the router sled can be found throughout the InterWebz. Then, if you still have gaps, you could simply rout deeper consistent sized gaps and then fill them with more pallet wood, then level with the router sled. (Note, you could do the fills first and then level only once.)

-- I'm happier than a tornado in a trailer park! Grace & Peace.

View rtbrmb's profile

rtbrmb

470 posts in 1856 days


#3 posted 11-02-2015 11:37 PM

Jeremiah;

Thanks for your service to our country & welcome to LJ’s.

I can’t help with the cutting board issue-but your pallet table…........

How wide of a top are we talking about? Do you have access to a hobby shop on the naval base that may have a thickness sander that could do something wider than your planer can handle? The other options could be a hand plane or even an electric plane to take down the high spots.

BikerDad had a great idea-he posted while I was typing. Also a belt sander followed by successive grits on a random orit sander – be careful not to remove too much with the belt sander.

As far as filling gaps-I have had a lot of success with coloring epoxy to fill gaps/knots. etc. You can use fine saw dust to color the epoxy or testers model paint-depends on what color you are shooting for. If you look at my projects page you can see how I used epoxy for fill some voids.

Bill in MI

View diverlloyd's profile

diverlloyd

1458 posts in 1325 days


#4 posted 11-05-2015 12:59 AM

The other posts have the flattening ideas down.
What salad bowl finish did you use. Is it a oil or salad bowl finish? Since i believe salad bowl finish is a lacquer it needs a cure time. I use mineral oil with bees wax melted in it I keep it in a mini crockpot used for dips.

View Gixxerjoe04's profile

Gixxerjoe04

835 posts in 1044 days


#5 posted 11-05-2015 01:15 AM

Got ant pics of the problems, at least the table that is, might be helpful to be able to see it.

View rwe2156's profile

rwe2156

2200 posts in 948 days


#6 posted 11-05-2015 05:03 PM

You can fill big gaps with epoxy and you can add powdered tints to it.
Put a backer on the bottom to keep it from running through.

As far as the flattening sled, be sure there are no nails.

Not much experience with salad bowl finish, but I would be tempted to put in the oven at the lowest setting.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

4859 posts in 2281 days


#7 posted 11-05-2015 05:42 PM

For the cutting boards try Howards Butcher Block Conditioner. Available at Home Depot and the like. You will love it.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View Monte Pittman's profile

Monte Pittman

22052 posts in 1806 days


#8 posted 11-05-2015 05:46 PM

Welcome to Lumberjocks. Hope you enjoy it as much as we do.

Thank you for your service.

-- Mother Nature created it, I just assemble it.

View runswithscissors's profile

runswithscissors

2192 posts in 1493 days


#9 posted 11-06-2015 12:48 AM

Another way to deal with gaps is to cut “feathers” that are slightly wedge shaped (a lengthwise wedge). Do this on a table saw. Glue those in and level as suggested above.

The point of the wedge shape is that the gaps may not be of consistent width. The wedge allows the feather to go as deep as necessary all along the gap.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

View bearkatwood's profile

bearkatwood

1215 posts in 479 days


#10 posted 11-06-2015 12:59 AM

Welcome to the craft, it is indeed a stress reliever. I wish you the best in your endeavors and if you ever have any questions ask ask away. This is the perfect site for the beginner.

-- Brian Noel

View Planeman40's profile

Planeman40

805 posts in 2229 days


#11 posted 11-06-2015 05:24 PM

Regarding the salad bowl oil problem. Get some fine (0000 or “four ought”) steel wool and dip it in acetone. Use the steel wool to scrub the old oil finish off. Then try another “food grade” oil finish made just for this. You can probably get it from Rockler, Woodcraft, or Highland hardware, all are on the Internet. Be aware that some oil finishes are somewhat toxic to ingest.

P.S.
The steel wool method is great for refinishing old furniture. Instead of acetone, use “brush cleaner” obtainable at any Lowes or Home Depot. Brush cleaner is just regular paint remover without the “glop”.

Planeman

-- Always remember: It is a mathematical certainty that half the people in this country are below average in intelligence!

View AZWoody's profile

AZWoody

700 posts in 692 days


#12 posted 11-06-2015 06:48 PM

Thank you for your service and welcome.

The pallet top table, is that using a the whole pallet, or just the reclaimed wood and then making a top out of that?
I’ve seen a lot of pallet wood furniture in shops and online and many people don’t try to even things out.
People like the rustic, uneven look.
If you do want to fill it, I would recommend what was said previously, which is to use epoxy that’s been colored.
You can get dye from a woodworking store or I’ve read that some people use model paint with success.

View mahdee's profile

mahdee

3555 posts in 1235 days


#13 posted 11-06-2015 07:02 PM

My goodness, you look like my twin brother 30 years ago.

-- earthartandfoods.com

View JeremiahD's profile

JeremiahD

5 posts in 404 days


#14 posted 11-10-2015 08:17 PM

Here is the cutting board. I finished it. Sanded down and stripped it. Read that on a few other posts. Still have issue with table. Don’t really know what to do.
Yes. Nails already. My bad. Learning as I go!
I’ll prob seal and paint it. Let it be uneven. I don’t intend on having it forever.

View ste6168's profile

ste6168

250 posts in 639 days


#15 posted 11-10-2015 08:37 PM



Here is the cutting board. I finished it. Sanded down and stripped it. Read that on a few other posts. Still have issue with table. Don t really know what to do.
Yes. Nails already. My bad. Learning as I go!
I ll prob seal and paint it. Let it be uneven. I don t intend on having it forever.

- JeremiahD

Cutting board looks nice, well done! I would probably do the same with the table. If you want it to be flat, as a surface, maybe get a piece of glass cut for the top? Not sure how that would look, or what it would cost, but a possibility?

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