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Forum topic by BlankMan posted 12-16-2009 07:31 AM 1489 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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BlankMan

1488 posts in 2814 days


12-16-2009 07:31 AM

I usually use blue tape on glue joints to prevent squeeze out from getting all over, but this time I didn’t.

On the dust collection hood I’m making for my chop saw, when I did the dry fit I scribed a line with a pencil and used the line to denote where to spread the glue. Well now that it’s all together you could see those pencil lines. Not a big deal if I where going to paint it but I’m just going to poly it. I like the look of the Baltic Birch so I don’t want to cover it with paint. Well that meant I have to remove the pencil lines. Not an easy task when they’re right in the corners.

So I tried my PC profile sander, that didn’t work well and just barely could get in there. And the paper would wear through quickly and then I’d get black streaks from the rubber of the 90 degree profile attachment. So a scraper, foam sanding blocks, sandpaper and a lot of elbow grease the last two days. Oh I found some 3M foam sanding blocks that had a 15 degree bevel on the edge that made getting in the 90 a bit easier, but still, not fun. There was also a thin layer of squeezed out glue which added to the difficulty before I could get at the pencil line.

I will never do this again, i.e. scribe a pencil line, blue tape from now on, no laziness.

-- -Curt, Milwaukee, WI


15 replies so far

View Jeison's profile

Jeison

951 posts in 2569 days


#1 posted 12-16-2009 10:50 AM

Could be worse, you could have used a black marker because you were too lazy to walk the five feet to your workbench, and figured it didn’t matter since the side you were marking was going against a wall anyways, and then end up mounting it backwards….

<><
>
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not that i’ve ever done that…

-- - Jei, Rockford IL - When in doubt, spray it with WD-40 and wrap it with duct tape. The details will attend to themselves.

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

8240 posts in 2890 days


#2 posted 12-16-2009 01:16 PM

Lacquer thinner removes graphite lines. Doesn’t do a darned thing for glue squeeze out, though. :-))

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

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BlankMan

1488 posts in 2814 days


#3 posted 12-16-2009 04:28 PM

Yes ink whould be bad. And I have a eraser in the shop, can’t get in the 90 where two boards are glued together.Yeah on the squeeze out. I wiped it with a wet rag and sponge and thought I had it all, but what I couldn’t see was enough. It was on the inside and with all the clamps hard to get to.

Thanks Gene! I’m gonna have to try that. I was thinking there has to be a better way.

-- -Curt, Milwaukee, WI

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8523 posts in 3110 days


#4 posted 12-16-2009 04:39 PM

good tip… been there, done that. now only scribing/noting with pencil in areas that will be the inside of a joint.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

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RetiredCoastie

999 posts in 2644 days


#5 posted 12-16-2009 06:11 PM

I use a product called “Magic Eraser” for pencil marks. You can find it in the cleaners area of grocery stores. I’ve used it in tight areas with little effort and it completely removes the marks.

-- www.thepatriotwoodworker.com Proud Supporter of Homes For Our Troops

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Gene Howe

8240 posts in 2890 days


#6 posted 12-17-2009 05:07 PM

Magic Erasers are great for cleaning. Use them all the time on the RV. But, I never thought of using them for pencil marks. Great idea.
I’m going to get a supply for the shop. Bet they’d work well on saw tables, plane soles, etc.
Gene

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

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ellen35

2724 posts in 2894 days


#7 posted 12-17-2009 05:29 PM

I make a skinny sanding block out the the skinnny end of a shim. I just attach stick on sandpaper to it and it fits into any corner. I sand out glue, pencil lines and whatever else is in there. Seems to work well for me.
Ellen

-- "Don't let the perfect be the enemy of the good." Voltaire

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BlankMan

1488 posts in 2814 days


#8 posted 12-17-2009 07:49 PM

Thanks all. Some good ideas here. I’m gonna try them all. Ellen, that shim idea sounds like just what I’m looking for to attack the glue, thanks.

-- -Curt, Milwaukee, WI

View Jim Crockett (USN Retired)'s profile

Jim Crockett (USN Retired)

852 posts in 3195 days


#9 posted 12-18-2009 06:22 AM

Or you can cut a 10 to 45 degree bevel on a small piece of scrap and stick some sandpaper to it. I do it all of the time. Use whatever bevel looks like it would work best depending on how tight the area is.

Jim

-- A veteran is someone who, at one point in his/her life, wrote a blank check made payable to "The United States of America," for an amount of "up to and including his/her life".

View GFYS's profile

GFYS

711 posts in 2932 days


#10 posted 12-18-2009 06:54 AM

Too bad you didn’t omit the pencil marks and just wipe the excess glue off with a damp rag.

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BlankMan

1488 posts in 2814 days


#11 posted 12-18-2009 08:57 AM

Jim, I tried that too, though not with stick on paper so it didn’t work as well. Didn’t have it at the time but now I do.

mics_54 yes, but I said previouly I had wiped the glue, just not well enough it appears. Tougher in a 90 degree corner as opposed to a flat surface compunded by not easy to get at.

-- -Curt, Milwaukee, WI

View CharlesNeil's profile

CharlesNeil

1610 posts in 3332 days


#12 posted 12-18-2009 04:34 PM

as every one else i have cussed myself because of glue , couple weeks ago , a friend of mine came in and we dovetailed some drawers , i told him not to use the cheap masking tape because it could be very difficult to get off , well you know exactly what he used , any way…he had 10 drawers, with the masking tape , and lots of glue…so i got the bright idea , and got a heat gun , a hair drier would do, and started warming the tape and the glue , it peeled right off , couldnt believe it …i used a sharp flat chisel and just peeled the glue right off, really helped the tape as well , see the big problem was he taped everything , about 1/8 of an inch away from the corner …said he didnt want to risk getting tape in the joint.. geez..any way try the hair drier … and acetone also will clean dried gllue pretty well …and the magic eraser is an A+

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stefang

15512 posts in 2796 days


#13 posted 12-18-2009 07:50 PM

I’m with Mario. A good eraser works just fine. The other magic stuff too is probably fine. Sanding doesn’t work well and does more damage than good. Especially aggravating at the glue-up stage.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

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BlankMan

1488 posts in 2814 days


#14 posted 12-18-2009 11:38 PM

Charles, thanks, I will try that. I have a Ungar heat gun from my electronics work and another one I use for the plastic on RC plane wings. Between the two of them one should do it. (my hairs too short to need a hair dryer LOL) I also keep acetone around but didn’t think it would work on dried glue, thanks again.

Mike, I have a good eraser, I can’t get it in 90 where the two boards meet. If anybody has a way to do that with an eraser along 20” joints I’d appreciate hearing it. The pencil line is in that 90 degree corner, as in as in can get.

-- -Curt, Milwaukee, WI

View studie's profile

studie

618 posts in 2608 days


#15 posted 12-19-2009 07:33 AM

Curt I will sand & stain before the glue up if I can, but if you don’t want to stain some shellac might keep the glue from sticking. I’ve tried petroleum jelly with some results but nothing is more exasperating than gorilla glue, with titebond 3 I don’t think I’ll use poly glue anymore. A shop i worked for in the past always taught to have the glue bleed out as then you know you used enough, not for me now as the modern glues are so good I don’t use so much now. I can remember scraping & sanding excess glue taking almost as much time as fabrication, not fun.

-- $tudie

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