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Installing Raw Wood Veneer Over Previously Finished Cabinets

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Forum topic by End_Grain posted 12-16-2009 02:23 AM 6844 views 1 time favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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End_Grain

95 posts in 2602 days


12-16-2009 02:23 AM

Topic tags/keywords: refurbishing veneering

There is no reason to install new kitchen cabinets. While our cabinets are surely ugly as sin, they are as stout as a mule. The cabinets are finished, albeit very poorly. The grain of the exterior plywood can be felt and seen. The facing wood is finished with a smooth high gloss. I thought it would be a matter of degreasing the cabinets, correcting surface defects, removing the finish with 80 grit and installing the veneer. But with the inability to use a press or even easily use clamps on the exterior sides, I’m having a hard time figuring this out. Contact cement seems ideal but can not be used on raw wood veneer. I know someone has done this successfully already. If you could share your tips and technique I sure would appreciate it.

Thanks in advance

Frank

-- My greatest fear is that when I die, my wife will sell all my stuff for what I told her I bought it for.


4 replies so far

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JAGWAH

929 posts in 2549 days


#1 posted 12-16-2009 03:12 AM

They make pressure sensitive veneers. What you’ve done is what’s needed pryor to rolling on. The prefer a plastic putty knife drawn across the veneer rather than a j-roller but I’ve had no problem using the j-roller.
Here’s one site with the PSA backed veneers. Check your local WoodCraft Store.
http://www.oakwoodveneer.com/pressure-sensitive-veneer.html

-- ~Just A Guy With A Hammer~

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cabinetmaster

10874 posts in 3023 days


#2 posted 12-16-2009 03:34 AM

That site that JAGWAH just mentioned is a great site. You can put veneer on those cabinets if prepped right.
I used laminate glue but you need to spray both pieces and let them totally dry. Then apply a second coat and when tacky to the touch apply the veneer to your wood. I made a veneer press out of 1 X 6 piece of maple. Just 45 one end then round over the point so you have abiut a 1/8” radious on the board. Use it to apply pressure and push out all the out. Let it stand for at least 24 hours before you apllying any stain. After applying stain, wait another 24 hours before applying a finish.

-- Jerry--A man can never have enough tools or clamps

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End_Grain

95 posts in 2602 days


#3 posted 12-16-2009 04:51 AM

Cabinetmaster,

That is what I thought also. I didn’t think I was limited to psa backed veneer. I figured on prepping the surface as I mentioned, use a quality laminate glue like you said and then use a block of hardwood to press it on, like a veneer hammer. Since you have done this before, what specific glue did you use? Thanks.

-- My greatest fear is that when I die, my wife will sell all my stuff for what I told her I bought it for.

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JAGWAH

929 posts in 2549 days


#4 posted 12-16-2009 05:35 AM

I’m sorry End Grain, the veneer I meant to say I’d use is offered with an adhesive backing already on just peel the paper and apply. I’ve done many kitchen remodels this way and haven’t had a failure. In the old days I would apply adhesive as many have said and it is messy and quite a pain. The 3-m adhesive backed veneers call for a sealed substrate and you described having just that. I will apply 1/4” end panels where it’s easiest, like between oven and refrig openings. I paint the cabinet interiors first to avoid an issue with the veneer. I always build new dovetailed drawers with upgraded hardware. And I like to add full extension pull outs behind the lower doors.

That said I appoligies for not introducing myself. My name is Bob and I’m a remodeler/carpenter/ whatever needs to be done guy. I’m 4th generation and don’t own enough clamps or have nearly enough tools but after 35 years doing this I’m half way there. I should also say I’m a Breaktime Refugee and hope you can tolerate my prescence.(and spelling)

-- ~Just A Guy With A Hammer~

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