2/3 vs. 3 pitch on Lenox Tri-master?

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by nick_name posted 10-31-2015 03:26 PM 805 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View nick_name's profile


17 posts in 993 days

10-31-2015 03:26 PM

I need to replace the Lenox Trimaster on my 20” bandsaw. Before I pull the trigger on a 3 tpi blade, which has consistently served me well, I am considering the pros-and-cons of a 2/3 pitch.

Anyone running a 2/3 pitch 1” or similar blade? I’m interested to hear your experiences with cut quality and speed.

Thanks in advance

6 replies so far

View wdwrkr's profile


26 posts in 3029 days

#1 posted 11-02-2015 11:39 AM

I run a Trimaster 2/3 at 1”. It’s the only blade I ever use really. I am on my second one in maybe 8 years or so. First one broke from tensile failure after about 7 years. I really need to relieve tension on the blade at the end of the day.

This new blade cuts so well I am often looking at the two sides of a resawn board to figure out which one needs to be planed. It is really quite good. I can make one clean-up cut on the jointer at about 20 mils to clear resaw marks. So waste is very minimal. On a typical resaw blade (non CT), I might have to make three or more clean-up passes.

I resaw boards to get veneers, and to to get to 1/2” finished thickness, typically. Species used run the range – poplar (a lot), pine (some), oak (very little), mahogany (a lot), cherry ( a lot), a multitude of others (some) – you name it.
As for feed rates, obviously oak runs slower than poplar, but seriously I have never been frustrated or impatient with it, and I am not a patient man. I use my tools to make a living so efficiency and performance are very important to me.

I’ll sometimes run boards to the resaw limit of the saw – 10”-12”, but far and away the most used widths are in the 6”-8” range. At the smaller sizes, you can virtually run as fast as you like. At the taller sizes, obviously slower is better. I find that I run slower to allow the blade to cut cleanly and track well – not because of loading. In fact, I don’t think I’ve ever had a loading issue. I tend to let my cutting tools “develop the cut” – allow them time work to their highest performance without beating them up (pushing too hard, too fast).

I am always looking for better tools, better performance, longer life, etc. That said, I bought the second Trimaster and have never been disappointed for one second.

Caveat: Words such as “fast”, “slow”, “easy”, “hard” are all subjective and mean different things to different people. I hope you will be pleased with your 2/3 blade if you choose to buy one. I am.

View ElChe's profile


630 posts in 1365 days

#2 posted 11-02-2015 05:06 PM

I can’t afford this blade. So, I haven’t used it. In metal working, variable pitch blades are used to eliminate harmonic vibration. I wonder if the same principle applies to resawing, i.e., using variable pitch to avoid vibration?

-- Tom - Measure twice cut once. Then measure again. Curse. Fudge.

View nick_name's profile


17 posts in 993 days

#3 posted 11-02-2015 05:32 PM

Thanks, I’m currently on my 2nd 3 tpi Tri-master, also over about 10 years. I leave the blade on the bandsaw pretty much full time. I also have a 1/4” blade that I run with a different set of guides (Carter) that allow the blade to pivot. The Trimaster is awesome, well worth the additional cost because if not abused it won’t get dull. What I do find is that over years of use the blade gets slight deformations that cause bumps in the resaw finish.

It doesn’t help that I don’t de-tension the blade, ever. I know I should, but it’s a hassle and if I’m spending $250 every 4-5 years to replace it, not a bad tradeoff.

View Aj2's profile


1442 posts in 1826 days

#4 posted 11-03-2015 03:30 AM

Lennox woodmaster Ct 1.3 TPI cuts much faster than the tri master. I use one on my 20 inch saw.
The Trimaster will cut some metals so maybe that’s why some guys like them?

-- Aj

View nick_name's profile


17 posts in 993 days

#5 posted 11-03-2015 04:01 AM

it’s a fair point and truth be told, I use the trimaster because that’s what I’m comfortable with. The Woodmaster doesn’t have quite the cut of the Tri but it does have an advantage of a thinner kerf. I cut a lot of veneers and I wouldn’t mind squeezing a few more out of a board. I also think the woodmaster would not ride the thrust bearing like the trimaster does.

Worth considering, thanks for pointing it out. I can go from bandsaw to glue-up with the trimaster, if I can deliver that with the woodmaster it would be a good deal.

View BurlyBob's profile


5556 posts in 2294 days

#6 posted 11-03-2015 05:10 AM

Thanks guys. I appreciate all this information. I’ve been considering a tri master. I may hold off for a short while
till I can get one.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics