2/3 vs. 3 pitch on Lenox Tri-master?

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Forum topic by nick_name posted 10-31-2015 03:26 PM 418 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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17 posts in 386 days

10-31-2015 03:26 PM

I need to replace the Lenox Trimaster on my 20” bandsaw. Before I pull the trigger on a 3 tpi blade, which has consistently served me well, I am considering the pros-and-cons of a 2/3 pitch.

Anyone running a 2/3 pitch 1” or similar blade? I’m interested to hear your experiences with cut quality and speed.

Thanks in advance

6 replies so far

View wdwrkr's profile


26 posts in 2422 days

#1 posted 11-02-2015 11:39 AM

I run a Trimaster 2/3 at 1”. It’s the only blade I ever use really. I am on my second one in maybe 8 years or so. First one broke from tensile failure after about 7 years. I really need to relieve tension on the blade at the end of the day.

This new blade cuts so well I am often looking at the two sides of a resawn board to figure out which one needs to be planed. It is really quite good. I can make one clean-up cut on the jointer at about 20 mils to clear resaw marks. So waste is very minimal. On a typical resaw blade (non CT), I might have to make three or more clean-up passes.

I resaw boards to get veneers, and to to get to 1/2” finished thickness, typically. Species used run the range – poplar (a lot), pine (some), oak (very little), mahogany (a lot), cherry ( a lot), a multitude of others (some) – you name it.
As for feed rates, obviously oak runs slower than poplar, but seriously I have never been frustrated or impatient with it, and I am not a patient man. I use my tools to make a living so efficiency and performance are very important to me.

I’ll sometimes run boards to the resaw limit of the saw – 10”-12”, but far and away the most used widths are in the 6”-8” range. At the smaller sizes, you can virtually run as fast as you like. At the taller sizes, obviously slower is better. I find that I run slower to allow the blade to cut cleanly and track well – not because of loading. In fact, I don’t think I’ve ever had a loading issue. I tend to let my cutting tools “develop the cut” – allow them time work to their highest performance without beating them up (pushing too hard, too fast).

I am always looking for better tools, better performance, longer life, etc. That said, I bought the second Trimaster and have never been disappointed for one second.

Caveat: Words such as “fast”, “slow”, “easy”, “hard” are all subjective and mean different things to different people. I hope you will be pleased with your 2/3 blade if you choose to buy one. I am.

View ElChe's profile


630 posts in 757 days

#2 posted 11-02-2015 05:06 PM

I can’t afford this blade. So, I haven’t used it. In metal working, variable pitch blades are used to eliminate harmonic vibration. I wonder if the same principle applies to resawing, i.e., using variable pitch to avoid vibration?

-- Tom - Measure twice cut once. Then measure again. Curse. Fudge.

View nick_name's profile


17 posts in 386 days

#3 posted 11-02-2015 05:32 PM

Thanks, I’m currently on my 2nd 3 tpi Tri-master, also over about 10 years. I leave the blade on the bandsaw pretty much full time. I also have a 1/4” blade that I run with a different set of guides (Carter) that allow the blade to pivot. The Trimaster is awesome, well worth the additional cost because if not abused it won’t get dull. What I do find is that over years of use the blade gets slight deformations that cause bumps in the resaw finish.

It doesn’t help that I don’t de-tension the blade, ever. I know I should, but it’s a hassle and if I’m spending $250 every 4-5 years to replace it, not a bad tradeoff.

View Aj2's profile


628 posts in 1219 days

#4 posted 11-03-2015 03:30 AM

Lennox woodmaster Ct 1.3 TPI cuts much faster than the tri master. I use one on my 20 inch saw.
The Trimaster will cut some metals so maybe that’s why some guys like them?

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17 posts in 386 days

#5 posted 11-03-2015 04:01 AM

it’s a fair point and truth be told, I use the trimaster because that’s what I’m comfortable with. The Woodmaster doesn’t have quite the cut of the Tri but it does have an advantage of a thinner kerf. I cut a lot of veneers and I wouldn’t mind squeezing a few more out of a board. I also think the woodmaster would not ride the thrust bearing like the trimaster does.

Worth considering, thanks for pointing it out. I can go from bandsaw to glue-up with the trimaster, if I can deliver that with the woodmaster it would be a good deal.

View BurlyBob's profile


3468 posts in 1686 days

#6 posted 11-03-2015 05:10 AM

Thanks guys. I appreciate all this information. I’ve been considering a tri master. I may hold off for a short while
till I can get one.

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