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Forum topic by daddywoofdawg posted 10-30-2015 06:29 PM 819 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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daddywoofdawg

1010 posts in 1034 days


10-30-2015 06:29 PM

Topic tags/keywords: miter saw

I’ve been using the stock beaver teeth saw blade that came with my compound sliding miter saw.
I’m on a very tight low cost budget so I can’t do 75.00+ blade,I’m need to make clean finish cuts (no/little tear out),for boxes in 4/4 and less.what is a good tooth count?And any low cost brands/models I should look at?


14 replies so far

View JayT's profile

JayT

4772 posts in 1671 days


#1 posted 10-30-2015 07:28 PM

What size miter saw?

For a 10in saw, a quality 60 tooth blade will do a good all around job. I use a Diablo model D1060X with good results. Diablo has a blade specifically for sliders, too—model D1060S, with a lower hook angle that would be less likely to “catch”. Dewalt Precision Trim are also good, model DW3218PT. Avoid the standard construction blade. Haven’t used any others to really know how good they are. Either the D1060X or DeWalt should run you around $40, the D1060S is a bit more.

If you really want a super clean cut, Diablo has an 80 tooth Flawless Finish and a 90 tooth Ultimate Flawless Finish blade. I’ve seen them demo’d and the cut is fabulous, though don’t own one. Those tend to run $50 and $60 respectively.

For a 12in saw, then 80 tooth is good for finish work.

Also, consider making a ZCI for your saw. That will help with tearout, as well.

-- "Good judgement is the result of experience. A lot of experience is the result of poor judgement."

View HokieKen's profile

HokieKen

1735 posts in 598 days


#2 posted 10-30-2015 07:33 PM

Also, consider making a ZCI for your saw. That will help with tearout, as well.

- JayT

+1 for the ZCI. I replaced my CMS factory insert with a ZCI I made and put on a sacrificial fence. Tear out has pretty much disappeared.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

4852 posts in 2273 days


#3 posted 10-30-2015 07:34 PM

1+ Freud Diablo 10” 60 tooth. No blade will give you splinter free cuts, unless you backup the cut somehow.
I made a zero clearance throat plate for my Dewalt miter saw. A sacrificial fence will eliminate chipout on the back edge of the cut.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View ForestGrl's profile

ForestGrl

445 posts in 546 days


#4 posted 10-31-2015 04:06 AM

Just a note on the “flawless finish” crosscut blades—assuming they’re made like Freud’s Ultimate Cross-cut blade, which I have. The Ultimate C-C blade polishes the wood as it cuts. This is fabulous if you have end-grain that’s going to be exposed (think Adirondak chair). However, if you’ll be putting glue on that end-grain, it may not stick.

-- My mother said that anyone learning to cook needed a large dog to eat the mistakes. As a sculptor of wood I have always tried to keep a fireplace. (Norman Ridenour)

View ric53's profile

ric53

147 posts in 979 days


#5 posted 10-31-2015 11:53 AM

I vote for the 60T Freud. I use it as my all purpose blade and love it. I use an 80T for fine/finish cross cuts and a Glue Line Rip blade for fine rips. ForrestGrl, tell me more about your Ultimate C-C blade.

-- Ric, Mazomanie

View daddywoofdawg's profile

daddywoofdawg

1010 posts in 1034 days


#6 posted 11-01-2015 05:34 PM

Also, consider making a ZCI for your saw. That will help with tearout, as well.

- JayT

+1 for the ZCI. I replaced my CMS factory insert with a ZCI I made and put on a sacrificial fence. Tear out has pretty much disappeared.

- HokieKen


Any links to making one?I had made one,and ended up chopping it up when I made a 45 degree cut.Plus I didn’t really like my design.and the fence.

View HokieKen's profile

HokieKen

1735 posts in 598 days


#7 posted 11-02-2015 01:42 PM


Also, consider making a ZCI for your saw. That will help with tearout, as well.

- JayT

+1 for the ZCI. I replaced my CMS factory insert with a ZCI I made and put on a sacrificial fence. Tear out has pretty much disappeared.

- HokieKen

Any links to making one?I had made one,and ended up chopping it up when I made a 45 degree cut.Plus I didn t really like my design.and the fence.

- daddywoofdawg

I don’t have any pics of mine but it’s pretty straightforward. I used 1/4” hardboard cut to rough shape for the insert. Then I took the factory insert out and carpet-taped it to the hardboard and went around it with a pattern bit in the router. Used the factory insert to mark the hole locations then drilled/countersunk the holes. I cut a rabbet around the edge so it sat slightly below flush with the table and shimmed it up flush. Then just installed it and used the blade to cut the clearance slot.

For the fences, I just cut some 1/2” MDF the same height as the metal fence and let it overhang the table a couple inches on either end. I screwed the MDF to the fence and cut through it with the bevel at 90 degrees. Then I took the left side of the fence off and cut another piece the same size and screwed it on the left side. I laid my bevel all the way over at 45 deg (I have a left bevel saw BTW) and cut through the second piece. I leave the first piece on when I’m doing square cuts and when I need to cut bevels, I take it off and put the other piece on. When the edges get worn out, I can move the fence pieces over a bit (why I left overhang on the sides) and close it back up to ZC.

Hope that explains it well enough. Let me know if you have any questions and I’ll take some pics when I get back home.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View TheDane's profile

TheDane

4997 posts in 3122 days


#8 posted 11-02-2015 02:59 PM

You can make a quick ZCI with a piece of 1/4” hardboard and some carpet tape.

I used a scrap of masonite about 24” long and 12” wide. I used carpet tape to attach it to the flat bad on my miter saw, turned the saw on and plunged the blade into the masonite. If you need to adjust the angle of the blade or fence, just pull the masonite off the saw, set you angle, then re-attach your hardboard.

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

7207 posts in 2835 days


#9 posted 11-02-2015 10:39 PM

The first question has been asked, but not answered (unless I missed it) ....what diameter blade?

For a slider, it’s best to get a blade with a very low positive to negative hook angle regardless of the diameter….roughly +5° to -5°.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View daddywoofdawg's profile

daddywoofdawg

1010 posts in 1034 days


#10 posted 11-03-2015 03:04 AM

10” blade,5/8” arbor. I have a 60 tooth stock blade on there now.

View Kaleb the Swede's profile

Kaleb the Swede

1727 posts in 1429 days


#11 posted 11-03-2015 03:11 AM

I have the Ryobi 10 inch slider. The Irwin Marples 80 tooth from lowes does a bang up job for me. It cost about 50 bucks and the cut is flawless. I used a piece of 1/4 inch mdf for an insert. Works great.

-- Just trying to build something beautiful

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

7207 posts in 2835 days


#12 posted 11-03-2015 07:17 PM



10” blade,5/8” arbor. I have a 60 tooth stock blade on there now.

- daddywoofdawg

Freud LU91M010 – $52

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

7207 posts in 2835 days


#13 posted 11-03-2015 07:18 PM


10” blade,5/8” arbor. I have a 60 tooth stock blade on there now.

- daddywoofdawg

Freud LU91M010 – $52

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View b2rtch's profile

b2rtch

4822 posts in 2508 days


#14 posted 11-03-2015 07:38 PM

Freud 60 or 80 tooth and negative hook are the best at reasonable price

-- Bert

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