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Forum topic by Richard posted 12-13-2009 04:18 PM 1469 views 0 times favorited 25 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Richard

113 posts in 2878 days


12-13-2009 04:18 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question trick tip humidor black walnut

I am making a humidor for a Christmas gift. Yesterday I went to cut the top off using my tablesaw and fowled up. I tried to fix it by shaving a little bit off all sides and still have a ugly box as you can see.

And here

I was so mad I just had to walk away. With christmas around the corner I am feeling a bit pressed. I though about using a v-router bit to rout out the entire seem and have a little reveal but I am not sure how to do that safely and evenly. Any ideas?


25 replies so far

View bent's profile

bent

311 posts in 3132 days


#1 posted 12-13-2009 05:43 PM

how big is the humidor? would it be possible to mount the top to a sled and run the underside of it through a planer?

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WayneC

12642 posts in 3560 days


#2 posted 12-13-2009 05:45 PM

Handplane it?

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

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Richard

113 posts in 2878 days


#3 posted 12-13-2009 06:02 PM

Thanks for the suggestions. I have a couple of old hand planes but, I am afraid I will gouge the wood. I suppose I will have to bite the bullet and learn by doing. Any suggestion on hand plane techniques? Thanks for replying.

View gerrym526's profile

gerrym526

269 posts in 3271 days


#4 posted 12-13-2009 06:27 PM

Handplanes (like other hand tools) just take some practice. WayneC has the right idea. Here’s my advice-
1) Go out and buy an inexpensive chisel/plane iron sharpenening jig-it will allow you to set the correct angle for the bevel on the plane.
2) Use waterstones to sharpen your plane irons and make sure they’re sharp!
3) Take some scraps of the same material as the humidor, and put them in your bench vise and practice with your plane(s), until you get the feel of making some nice shavings.
4) Now try very light cuts with the plane on the box top edges until you’ve evened out the mistake-don’t panic you’ll have this done in an afternoon and well before Xmas.

Send the humidor to me when it’s finished as I need to move my cigars from tupperware containers to something nicer-LOL!!! (just kidding-but it is a nice gift)

-- Gerry

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WayneC

12642 posts in 3560 days


#5 posted 12-13-2009 06:31 PM

The question on handplanes would be if you have the ability to sharpen them. They would give you a lot of control. If your not in a rush, you could take your time to build some skills. Practice on scrap wood till your confident and able to take a fine shaving.

What kind of planes do you have?

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

View NoSlivers's profile

NoSlivers

210 posts in 2553 days


#6 posted 12-13-2009 06:54 PM

when hand planing pay particular attention to the direction of the grain. If the plane is freshly sharpened and you’re taking light cuts, it shouldn’t matter. Planing into the grain as the plane dulls could cause it to catch a little and try to lift the grain instead of cutting it. This generally only happens if the plane is set too deeply, so stick with shallow cuts.

Personally, if you’re concerned about using a plane, I’d suggest a cabinet scraper, but that takes a little practice too.

Or, if you have a router table, set it up with a chamfer bit with a guide bushing and put a small reveal along the bottom edge of the lid.

Either way, post the solution you decided on along with the new pics so we can all benefit

-- If you don't have time to do it right, do you have time to do it twice?

View bladeburner's profile

bladeburner

88 posts in 2550 days


#7 posted 12-13-2009 07:02 PM

I’m with the small/shallow bevel group. May be able to do just front and sides. It won’t take much to hide the scallops and be done in a couple of minutes on the RT.
Anyway, Good Luck

View majeagle1's profile

majeagle1

1426 posts in 2959 days


#8 posted 12-13-2009 07:06 PM

Hey Richard…............ been there, done that! a few times.
I have done a couple of things:
Take the top and turn it on edge on the TS and re-cut about a 1/16 of an inch off, that will square up the edges again. I use a tenon jig to make sure the top is mounted very secure and straight for this cut.

I also have “re-designed” the edges with either a roundover bit, champfer bit or if you could even cut a rabbet on both the top and base and then add a contrast strip and finish off.

Good luck and I look forward to hearing about your “fix / re-design”

-- Gene, Majestic Eagle Woodworks, http://majesticeagleww.etsy.com/, http://www.flickr.com/photos/majesticeagle/

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bigike

4050 posts in 2751 days


#9 posted 12-13-2009 07:14 PM

i would go with a rabbit and nice strip of wood all around top and box itself this way its like a do over plus u get more depth on the top and the box and a sweet lookin project in the end just after u add the strips tape a piece of sandpaper to your saw top and sand away to make it very flat then when u put it together it will look like u cut it on a bandsaw so it looks like it doesnt even open if u need someone to walk u through just ask here on LJ im shure someone will. good luck

-- Ike, Big Daddies Woodshop, http://www.icombadaniels@yahoo.com

View poopiekat's profile

poopiekat

4225 posts in 3197 days


#10 posted 12-13-2009 07:18 PM

I’m with majeagle1 on this.
you can trim it on your saw, then, if necessary, a very thin strip of a contrasting wood to build the dimension back to where it was.
Whenever I build a cube and saw the top off, I tape thin pieces of wood into the kerf after each side is cut. This keeps the lid and the box both the correct distance from each other. It is probably your fourth cut that is allowing the cutoff side to drift into the blade, as you hold both pieces together while it passes through the blade. Good Luck!

-- Einstein: "The intuitive mind is a sacred gift, and the rational mind is a faithful servant. We have created a society that honors the servant and has forgotten the gift." I'm Poopiekat!!

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sras

4391 posts in 2592 days


#11 posted 12-13-2009 07:19 PM

When stuff like this happens to me, I usually back away from the power tools and try the slowest removal of material I can think of. Usually that is sandpaper. I would try laying a sheet of 80 grit on the bench and slowly work the surface flat. This way I can check progress and stop if I don’t like what is happening.
As Gene said, I would also suggest the idea of adding and accent strip. Sometimes the goof ups make the best features!

-- Steve - Impatience is Expensive

View Richard's profile

Richard

113 posts in 2878 days


#12 posted 12-13-2009 08:33 PM

Thanks for all the suggestions! I looked into it and what happened is my zero clearance insert gave way at the back causing the workpiece to dip down a little. This is the first time that happened so I did not think to check it. Time to make a new insert. My planes are some old Craftsman units. They actually belonged to my grandfather. I will try them on some scrap wood and see how they cut. I do not have the tools for sharpening them yet. Maybe Santa will overlook all that naughty stuff I did and hook me up with one! Thanks again for all the help, I will keep Y’all posted.

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Richard

113 posts in 2878 days


#13 posted 12-13-2009 10:26 PM

Update… My Planers were way to dull to get a clean cut. I opted to rout a small bevel around the whole shoot’n match on both the lid and the box itself. Theres still a small problem area but I think it will get routed out for the hinges anyway. Thanks again for all the suggestions. I’ll post a link to the final project page once everything is finished.

View NoSlivers's profile

NoSlivers

210 posts in 2553 days


#14 posted 12-14-2009 12:15 AM

Richard, thanks for the update. I’ll be looking forward to seeing the finished product. Lookin’ good!!

-- If you don't have time to do it right, do you have time to do it twice?

View whitedog's profile

whitedog

652 posts in 2920 days


#15 posted 12-14-2009 12:21 AM

great save ,it looks really good

-- Paul , Calfornia

showing 1 through 15 of 25 replies

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