How likely is it that an arbor is too large?

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Forum topic by LutherBaker posted 12-13-2009 07:12 AM 1710 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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11 posts in 3087 days

12-13-2009 07:12 AM

Topic tags/keywords: arbor sawblade tablesaw

I just purchased a Craftsman 22124 10” Tablesaw and have it setup with one outstanding problem.

I can’t seem to get the blade to lay flat against the arbor flange. It seems like the sawblade hole is too small. I can fit the blade over the arbor threads and I can push it back to within about 1/8” from the arbor flange but the arbor has a slightly larger collar right at the point and the blade hole won’t easily slip over that collar.

When I tighten the arbor down a reasonable amount – the blade doesn’t spin true. Part of the blade rides up on the collar and the other does not. I can tighten it down a bit farther and it seems like it is pulling in a bit closer – but it seems like I’m doing an inordinate amount of tightening and I don’t want to warp or damage the blade when in fact, there is something wrong.

I am a completely newbie to working with tablesaws and I’m just not sure what to expect or do in this case. The arbor is machined and so I can’t believe I have a fault arbor … but it seems like I am missing something.

Thanks for any thoughts …


13 replies so far

View GFYS's profile


711 posts in 3471 days

#1 posted 12-13-2009 07:38 AM

Are you sure there isnt a bushing that should be removed. I have never seen a shoulder on an arbor shaft…but then I haven’t seen lots of things.

Specs indicate a standard 5/8 arbor. You should have a blade stabilizer on both sides of the blade the stabilizer may fit onto a shoulder.

View Blake's profile


3443 posts in 3875 days

#2 posted 12-13-2009 08:01 AM

Please return it and get something other than a Craftsman! This is only the beginning my friend. I work in a tool shop and we see stuff like this all the time. If you want any ideas let me know.

-- Happy woodworking!

View Rick  Dennington's profile

Rick Dennington

5864 posts in 3195 days

#3 posted 12-13-2009 08:02 AM

Luther: It could be(but not likely) that the hole in your saw blade may be a little small. I ran into that with a set of dado blades one time. The hole was a little undersized. Have you tried another blade to see if it fits?
Also, being a new saw, there might be some burrs on the arbor that didn’t get cleaned when they turned the threads. One thing to try: Remove averything, and use a wire brush to clean the arbor, turning the arbor as you clean. Hopefully it’s just something simple.

-- " At my age, happy hour is a crap and a nap".....

View LutherBaker's profile


11 posts in 3087 days

#4 posted 12-13-2009 08:53 AM

I’ve taken a picture and posted it here. (The picture is really quite large.)

Near the base of the arbor “bolt” you’ll see a thicker, shiny thread. It doesn’t come off like a bushing. The arbor just changes shape a little bit and forms what I’d call a thicker thread (I assume the saw blade hole should sit directly on this area). If if isn’t obvious from the picture, that slightly larger piece sits just in front of the arbor flange – thus, if the saw blade cannot fit over that larger ‘thread’, then it never rests directly against the flange.

I can tighten it – and the blade starts to close that gab between the ‘thread’ and the arbor flange – but it seems like overkill. Thanks for the points so far. I have two blades – even the Leitz that came with the machine does the same thing. I didn’t notice it since I guess I tightened it down so much. I’ve used the saw with the other blade for about 2 hours today and decided to go out and get a Freud and that is when I noticed that the blades just don’t slide right on.

There is an 800 number on the manual (closed until business hours) so I’ll try that – but I can’t understand why it doesn’t work as I’d expect right out of the box.

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile


18272 posts in 3676 days

#5 posted 12-13-2009 08:58 AM

The blade should push up against the face plate you see in your picture. After yoiu put the blade on , there should be a big washer that goes on the arbor before the nut goes on. Once you have all the parts, the nut should tighten up the blade without going cockeyed.

-- Bob in WW ~ "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

View LutherBaker's profile


11 posts in 3087 days

#6 posted 12-13-2009 10:19 AM

I went ahead and just tightened it down as best I could. It got a little easier to tighten, then I heard a ping and after one more turn, the blade was flush.

I guess tightening the blade down hard enough eventually pulled the blade up and over that last big hump. It seems pretty straight now. I’ll set it up in the morning and check for square again.

Thanks to everyone that chimed in.

View PeteMoss's profile


207 posts in 3471 days

#7 posted 12-13-2009 03:50 PM

Hey LutherBaker,

Place a straight edge over the blades plate surface and make sure it isn’t bowed. I had an identical experience on my Steel City saw (which is who make the Craftsman I think), you can read about my experience with it and how it was remedied here.

-- "Never measure......cut as many times as necessary." - PeteMoss

View Ger21's profile


1074 posts in 3131 days

#8 posted 12-13-2009 04:08 PM

Try to “jiggle” it back and forth and get it to slip on. If you can only get it on with the nut, then it’s not machined properly and should be returned. Also, after using the nut to force it on, how do you get it off? If it comes off easy, then you should be able to get it on without using the nut

-- Gerry,

View Bob #2's profile

Bob #2

3809 posts in 4022 days

#9 posted 12-13-2009 04:36 PM

Let’s do some differential diagnosis:
Try a different sawblade on the arbor (Make sure it is 5./8’ too)

If it fits it’s the new blade.
If it ’s the new blade , gently ream the 5/8” hole with a reamer.
Get one from Harbor freight or from a friend that has everything.

If that doesn’t work, call Sears for a pick up and get your money back.

p.s. Never buy tools from a vendor that sells pots and pans or ladies undergarments.

-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner

View eddy's profile


939 posts in 3365 days

#10 posted 12-13-2009 05:11 PM

have you measured the arbor?
measure the step the blade is sticking on that will tell you where the issue is i have had the same saw for 2 years now with no issues like this

-- self proclaimed copycat

View Ger21's profile


1074 posts in 3131 days

#11 posted 12-13-2009 05:13 PM

I’d return the blade before reaming the hole in it. Seems to me that that’s an easy way to ruin a blade.

-- Gerry,

View Bob #2's profile

Bob #2

3809 posts in 4022 days

#12 posted 12-13-2009 06:05 PM

Gerry, the reamer suggested was to deburr the blade rather than ream the hole larger.
I sometimes take the basic knowledge of tools and how to use them properly for granted,
I’ll try to be more specific in future.

What happens is:
The hole in the blade is punched out on a stamping press and from there fitted to a laser device that cuts the final shape of the body to receive the carbide teeth in a separate operation.
It seems that the die used to punch the 5/8” hole is leaving a burr on the metal.
I just dealt with that about 2 weeks ago with a couple of new blades and so passed along the information and a possible fix.

-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner

View GFYS's profile


711 posts in 3471 days

#13 posted 12-13-2009 07:06 PM

yeah..looks like the shaft is a bit unfinished to me. I doubt its a problem with the blade. You might file the burs down on the shaft a little. There should be no shoulder on an arbor other wise you couldnt stack blades.

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