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10-26-2015 08:21 PM
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Topic tags/keywords:
oak
primer
tannin
shellac
painting
odor
dry time
I’m repainting my old oak dark stained kitchen cabinets. After 1 coat of Insl-X Stix primer, and 2 coasts of Cabinet Coat paint, I am getting bleed through on certain areas of the style profile, and where the style profile meets the panel. The guys at my local Benjamin Moore dealer said they never saw stain bleed through like that after 3/4 coats, only with Tannin’s.
They recommended I use Zinsser’s Allprime Shellac-Based Primer Stain Blocker. I’m curious how bad this stuff smells and how long it lingers after the painting is done? I’m debating if I should paint them outside in the day, and then carry into my basement at night, or leave them in my detached garage. The detached garage may be the best bet.
The bleed through didn’t happen on the frame boxes, only in 1 small area, but is happening as described on the door style profiles. I have more frame boxes to paint and was considering using this Shellac, but i’m afraid the smell may be too much. I could paint in the morning but the babies arrive back home in the afternoon, will it still smell too strong after only 5-6 hours of dry time?
Some general questions for anyone that knows the product well. -Is 2 coats enough typically?. The can says they are dry to touch in 15 minutes, and can be recoated after 45 minutes. My plan is to brush them with 2 coats outdoors (The high is only mid 50’s but the can says it can be applied all the way down to 0 degrees ok) , then carry them inside at night. -Can I use a roller (Nap or Foam), or will a brush be best? They are cabinet doors that I will later HVLP spray with the Cabinet Coat, so i’m trying to minimize brush strokes as much as possible. -Does it typically lay down flat or does it require a sanding after its dry? -The can doesn’t say dry time, would 24 hours be sufficient to then do a light sanding and top coat with Cabinet Coat Enamel? -Any other tips on applying it?
My very first time using an HVLP and I must say, the paint laid out incredibly well and looks nearly factory. I did a test door where I laid it on thick and I nearly eliminated all of the deep grain, incredible. Glad I took the chance with the HVLP, it will definitely speed up the topcoating process.
Thanks
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11 replies so far
#1 posted 10-26-2015 09:19 PM
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“I’m repainting my old oak dark stained kitchen “
This was as far as I got. Paint? On wood?
Blasphemy!
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#2 posted 10-26-2015 09:42 PM
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Shellac has very little odor the solvent is alcohol.
-- Bruce, Boise, ID
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#3 posted 10-26-2015 09:47 PM
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Like he said shellac has little odor and it dries very quickly. I use dewaxed shellac as a seal coat and can spray my next product about 30 minutes later.
-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.
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#4 posted 10-27-2015 12:50 AM
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Shellac is an awesome sealer too. Very little bleed through. And after I use it a while I feel like I’m on a Caribbean vacation drinking gin and tonic.
It sands well, very flat with a fine grit. I usually use a short nap roller like foam. It can go on thin because it seals very well. It tends to leave little lumps that need sanding. And like I said it sands well.
I was introduced to it by fire restoration guys and it’s my go-to solution for a number of problems: odor, hiding, quick and fast white undercoat (comes other colors too). It sticks to just about anything with minimal preparation. It’s gotten expensive, though.
-- Dave, New England - “We are made to persist. that's how we find out who we are.” ― Tobias Wolff
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#5 posted 10-27-2015 11:08 AM
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Hi Frank As suggested Zinsser’s Shellac-Based Primer is the product you need …..if you don’t have to many doors to paint….for a few extra bucks….try a can of the same product in aerosol….I think it would give you similar results as your HVLP finish…..read the spray can and stay 11 to 12 inches away….My results with brushing or rolling shellac primer wasn’t as good as some ….. much better results with the spray can…..especially in the corners Hope this helps RocketDogs
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#6 posted 10-27-2015 12:17 PM
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I can’t add much to what’s been said, but want to emphasize the “tough to brush” comment (doesn’t roll real well, but it’s better than brushing…at least for me). Try it on a scrap piece to perfect your technique. Also the white pigment settles fairly quick, so keep it stirred maybe a little more than you might with other paints.
-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.
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#7 posted 10-27-2015 06:49 PM
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Thanks everyone! The cabinets are stained oak, not painted. I prepped the boxes and paint brushed them and they came out great. Its the doors that are causing bleed and it sounds like B-I-N is exactly what i need based on everyone’s feedback, thanks!
So it doesn’t smell and linger a lot? I was under the impression that it was like oil based primer and the smell would linger very strong for a few days. Is that not the case with Shellac and its alcohol base?
Maybe i’ll go buy a spray can or two and see how it does. The guys at my paint shop thought with a good brush it should go on no problem and lay down flat. The idea of spraying it on with a spray can might be ideal, think I can do that without getting runs and all worse than a brush?
Any idea what it is called at Home Depot? I think its labeled differently.
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#8 posted 10-27-2015 08:40 PM
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Your worry about the odor is a little overdone. It does have a strong alcohol smell, but it’s very short lived. B-I-N won’t be labeled differently, but make sure it’s the shellac based one, there are some other formulas. A;lso, you may get much thinner coats with the rattle cans..plan accordingly.
-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.
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#9 posted 10-27-2015 08:46 PM
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Your worry about the odor is a little overdone. It does have a strong alcohol smell, but it s very short lived. B-I-N won t be labeled differently, but make sure it s the shellac based one, there are some other formulas. A;lso, you may get much thinner coats with the rattle cans..plan accordingly.
- Fred Hargis
Thanks Fred! The guys at the store told me it will smell up the house like crazy so that’s why I was concerned, and only because I have babies in the house. Glad to hear it isn’t as harsh as they made it out to be, or i’ll do a test and find out.
Would it make sense to try to spray it through an HVLP setup instead?
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#10 posted 10-27-2015 09:22 PM
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I’m the wrong guy to ask about spraying BIN through HVLP. I tried it and failed miserably. I couldn’t keep the TiO2 (white pigment) suspended. It kept settling to the bottom of the cup clogging my gun. I’m on of the few who can’t spray it (apparently) since most other folks seem to make it spray just fine. But if you can do that, it would be the way to go.
-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.
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#11 posted 10-28-2015 10:36 AM
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HandyFrank Asked??? Any idea what it is called at Home Depot? I think its labeled different
Sorry I can’t get the link to work but it is at Home Depot….13oz spray….about $8.50 a can
“http://www.homedepot.com/p/Zinsser-13-oz-B-I-N-Shellac-Based-White-Interior-Spot-Exterior-Primer-and-Sealer-Spray-01008/100398390”: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Zinsser-13-oz-B-I-N-Shellac-Based-White-Interior-Spot-Exterior-Primer-and-Sealer-Spray-01008/100398390
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