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Forum topic by HarleySoftailDeuce | posted 12-10-2009 04:04 PM | 12915 views | 1 time favorited | 13 replies | ![]() |
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12-10-2009 04:04 PM |
Hello fellow Jumber Jocks, -- Paul, Bristol,Rhode Island |
13 replies so far
#1 posted 12-10-2009 04:13 PM |
If you have the room, I would build the carcass first. Then build the FF and put them on the carcass as they are built. I you need more info, feel free to pm me. Been a cabinetbuilder for over 30 years. -- Jerry--A man can never have enough tools or clamps |
#2 posted 12-10-2009 05:42 PM |
Paul, I agree with Jerry. I always build the carcass first and then fit the face frame to the carcass. -- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine |
#3 posted 12-10-2009 05:45 PM |
I agree with the others, I always build the carcasses first. -- Sawdust in my veins-- |
#4 posted 12-10-2009 05:55 PM |
Thanks to my friends at LJ !! I’m going to do the boxes first. -- Paul, Bristol,Rhode Island |
#5 posted 12-10-2009 06:04 PM |
Why on earth would you build a ff first? kreg…not necessarily. |
#6 posted 12-10-2009 06:08 PM |
Kreg is a terrific choice. I have the K3 system, plus a couple of their right-angle clamps … makes face frame and carcase construction much easier. -- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!" |
#7 posted 12-10-2009 06:15 PM |
A kreg pocket hole would be great if you are building modular cabinets on which the faces are mounted prior to installation. They will not be that great otherwise. |
#8 posted 12-10-2009 06:26 PM |
How you attach your face frames can differ according to how your cabinets are configured unless there nailed on . I don’t like the look of pocket screws if they are visible even with plugs the are way to obvious unless you can put them were they wont be seen. you can also kerf the edge of your cabinets large enough to accept biscuits and then add biscuits to the back of the face frame . Of course I agree with making the cabinets first. -- https://www.artisticwoodstudio.com/videos wood crafting & woodworking classes |
#9 posted 12-10-2009 06:51 PM |
carcasses for sure. I would use pocket holes anywhere they will not show and a biscuit here and there to keep them lined up and if you do not have that tool dowels will work in the corners and longer spans.. |
#10 posted 12-10-2009 07:08 PM |
I just remembered a small cabinet I whipped out for a class I was teaching that the very last second I applied the face frame with turners tape ,it stuck very well and is still on the demo cabinet. I’ve thought about using this on a combination of cabinets with one face frame but I have not been brave enough to do this on a customers job. -- https://www.artisticwoodstudio.com/videos wood crafting & woodworking classes |
#11 posted 12-10-2009 07:35 PM |
As most have already stated, boxes first. To attach the face frames, cut a groove in the edge of the cabinet sides (no need to do the bottoms) and make a corresponding groove in the stiles (veritcal pieces) of the face frames. Attach with glue and splines. This is a very strong method, especially if the doors are to be hinged from the face frame, but you must take care to have the grooves align. Needs some precision but isn’t that what we strive for? Good luck. -- Don, Pittsburgh |
#12 posted 12-10-2009 08:14 PM |
If you use the Kreg system, be sure you clamp the FF or when you put the screws in, the board will move slightly and botch the look with a catch edge. A real shame to do all that work and have it look like I did it. |
#13 posted 12-10-2009 10:23 PM |
Rand is right … that is why I bought the right-angle clamps. Norm Abram did a whole series a year or so back on a kitchen remodel. He used pocket-screws to assemble the face frames, then used biscuits to attach them to the carcases. He used his PC biscuit joiner to on the frames, but used a router with a slot-cutter to make grooves in the carcases. -- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!" |
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