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Forum topic by woodworkingdrew posted 10-17-2015 05:07 AM 496 views 0 times favorited 3 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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woodworkingdrew

189 posts in 1077 days


10-17-2015 05:07 AM

I purchased an older Ridgid jointer a couple years back. Went to use it this past week to square up some 2×4x10 for a patio cover. My results were less then disirable. The boards were bowed and a couple were twisted. Do you want to place more pressure on the infeed table or the outfeed table? Also, since the boards were really long, does this make it harder to joint a square edge? Thanks

-- Andrew, California


3 replies so far

View Tennessee's profile

Tennessee

2410 posts in 1982 days


#1 posted 10-17-2015 11:06 AM

First, the outfeed table is the desired edge, so you want to apply any pressure to the wood on the outfeed table as you move it along, while keeping it dead against the fence.

Assuming it is set up correctly, and that is a large assumption, you should see a small amount being removed when the wood transitions from the infeed table to the outfeed table, and the board should be flat against the fence the entire run.
So…it is harder to get long boards to stay put for the whole run, which is why people buy an 8” jointer so they can get those long fences and tables. I rarely work with anything longer than 36” long, so for me, a 6” jointer is just fine.

And if you were working with bowed and twisted boards, it makes it all the harder to put on any kind of edge. They should be run through flat first to get rid of the bow and twist, if possible. Some boards along their whole length are warped and bowed more than the overall thickness, which renders the long length useless.

The first thing to do is check the overall accuracy of the machine. There are blogs and articles on this site on how to do that.
Good luck!

-- Paul, Tennessee, http://www.tsunamiguitars.com

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rwe2156

2200 posts in 948 days


#2 posted 10-17-2015 11:28 AM

If the boards are that long you will have a very hard time on a small jointer like this.

You may even end up with something worse.

Even on my long bed jointer, boards over 8 feet can be very tricky.

Remember you’re dealing with construction lumber and I can almost promise you tomorrow your jointed board will not be straight!!

I would employ a straight edge and a circular saw and follow up by ripping to width on your TS.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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8iowa

1546 posts in 3229 days


#3 posted 10-17-2015 12:58 PM

#2156 above has brought out a very good point. Construction lumber usually has a high moisture content and will continue to “move” long after you have bought it. This type of wood needs to air dry in a suitable place for at least a month before you try to use it. Perhaps here we are touching on an important difference between contracting and woodworking.

That said, I only have a 4” joiner with 28” of infeed and outfeed length, yet, I’ve joined 100” long boards, getting them nice and flat and edges straight for gluing. The secret to my success is placing Rockler’s Heavy-duty flip stands both fore of the infeed side and aft of the outfeed. Using a feeler gauge I zero the stands “flat” with the infeed and outfeed tables. This set-up can be accomplished in a surprisingly short period of time and really works well.

A lot of people think that a jointer is the all with all method of addressing twist. Folks, it isn’t always that easy. I’ve gotten into the habit of first taking a board, laying it on my work bench, and then with winding sticks and a hand plane I remove twist. A jointer can then take it from there.

-- "Heaven is North of the Bridge"

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