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Long Jointer Adjustment

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Forum topic by Gerald Thompson posted 10-16-2015 08:23 PM 689 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Gerald Thompson

808 posts in 1702 days


10-16-2015 08:23 PM

Many years ago I came by one of the last Steve Knight’s wooden hand planes. It is 30’’. I must have told him that was what I wanted. I developed a shoulder problem got it fixed then had the other one fixed. I am now ready to have a go at it.
IIRC it is bevel up. I have been on Youtube trying to learn how to adjust the blade depth. I can not get the blade to retract by hitting the butt of the plane. It is just hogging off wood and skittering.
I have just re-sharpened the iron and it cuts hair. So that is out of the way. At present I am too tired and frustrated to try it again today.
How do it get the iron to retract There is only about 1/32” poking out but I think it needs less.
I am still trying to figure out who to blame on me ordering a 30’’ plane. It is a dandy though.

-- Jerry


11 replies so far

View Nicky's profile

Nicky

695 posts in 3559 days


#1 posted 10-16-2015 10:41 PM

It sounds as if the wedge may be to tight. I own two wooden planes, so I’m not an expert. I did build both and had similar problems with both, The wedge may need some fine tuning.

-- Nicky

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Gerald Thompson

808 posts in 1702 days


#2 posted 10-16-2015 11:39 PM

Thanks Nicky. I will have another go at tomorrow. I watched another video that helped me. I think the iron needed to be sharpened too.

-- Jerry

View Don W's profile

Don W

17971 posts in 2035 days


#3 posted 10-17-2015 12:11 PM

What kind of hammer are you using? I find with some wooden planes (I never had a knight) a large wooden mallet works best for retracting the iron.

I also find with some planes its best to just back it up and start over so it never gets to deep.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.net

View Gerald Thompson's profile

Gerald Thompson

808 posts in 1702 days


#4 posted 10-17-2015 12:15 PM

I have been using a small hammer made for plane adjustment. I have a larger wooden mallet I will try. It did occur to me to just start over.
Right now I am facing a lawn that needs mowing. Maybe after a nap I’ll give it a go.
Thanks.

-- Jerry

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Don W

17971 posts in 2035 days


#5 posted 10-17-2015 12:22 PM

I’m so thankful my wife hates the way I mow lawn!

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.net

View BubbaIBA's profile

BubbaIBA

383 posts in 1844 days


#6 posted 10-17-2015 01:17 PM



Many years ago I came by one of the last Steve Knight s wooden hand planes. It is 30 . I must have told him that was what I wanted. I developed a shoulder problem got it fixed then had the other one fixed. I am now ready to have a go at it. IIRC it is bevel up. I have been on Youtube trying to learn how to adjust the blade depth. I can not get the blade to retract by hitting the butt of the plane. It is just hogging off wood and skittering.
I have just re-sharpened the iron and it cuts hair. So that is out of the way. At present I am too tired and frustrated to try it again today.
How do it get the iron to retract There is only about 1/32” poking out but I think it needs less.
I am still trying to figure out who to blame on me ordering a 30 plane. It is a dandy though.

- Gerald Thompson

Gerald,

You may remember correctly but…..I’ve googled SKP’s and all I’ve found are fairly traditional and bevel down. I would try it bevel down and follow the advise to always advance the iron. If too heavy a cut back the iron out and start over.

ken

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Gerald Thompson

808 posts in 1702 days


#7 posted 10-17-2015 02:47 PM

You are correct Ken. It seemed it would be BU due to the mouth adjustment. There is hardly any space between the fully open mouth and the iron in BD application. I do not know whey the mouth has such far reaching adjustments when only the wide open seems to work.
I used my MF #18 to knock out the high spots on a 6’’ wide pine board. I them proceeded the SK jointer and finished it up. It is not perfectly flat but I know it works.
The shavings are to die for. Thank you so much. I was getting ready to sell it. That will be about 8 years down road when I sell all of my stuff. I will be 80 and I am getting tired of WW.

-- Jerry

View Derek Cohen's profile

Derek Cohen

296 posts in 3436 days


#8 posted 10-18-2015 03:08 PM

Steve only made BD planes. Your plane is 100% likely to be BD. The reason it has little area in front of the mouth is deliberate – it is designed to work best with a small mouth. Steve built in an adjustment section so that the mouth could be kept small.

For setting up wooden planes use a “setting block”. Most recommend a wooden board but my choice is a piece of float glass glued to a board. This will not damage your blade.

Place the plane without blade and wedge on the setting block, and slide in the blade (bevel down!) until it rests on the blade. Press the back of the blade against the back of the bed. Slide in the wedge and press down firmly.

This is a smoother, but the process is the same ..

This set up creates a fine cut. Tap the blade for a deeper cut. Always firm up the wedge after an adjustment.

Regards from Perth

Derek

-- Buildiing furniture, and reviewing and building tools at http://www.inthewoodshop.com

View paratrooper34's profile

paratrooper34

892 posts in 2419 days


#9 posted 10-18-2015 03:55 PM

It is a very long plane, 30”. You may want to consider placing a strike button on the top forward of the blade. These are very common on lengthy wood bodied planes because the length of the body absorbs the shock from the hammer blow when hit on the heel.

Look at this google search and you will see many of them and how they are placed.

https://www.google.com/search?q=antique+wooden+jointer+plane&es_sm=93&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0CCUQsARqFQoTCKzBwcevzMgCFcqqHgod3DwK9w&biw=1600&bih=731

-- Mike

View Gerald Thompson's profile

Gerald Thompson

808 posts in 1702 days


#10 posted 10-18-2015 11:10 PM

I have several cherry round door pulls about 3/4’’ in diameter. Could I shorten the tenon, drill a hole and use this for a strike button?

-- Jerry

View Derek Cohen's profile

Derek Cohen

296 posts in 3436 days


#11 posted 10-19-2015 03:30 AM

You do not need a strike button. It is technique. You need a mallet with a hard end and use a sharp blow.

Regards from Perth

Derek

-- Buildiing furniture, and reviewing and building tools at http://www.inthewoodshop.com

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