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Drawbored Breadboard Ends?

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Forum topic by newwoodbutcher posted 10-16-2015 05:40 AM 612 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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newwoodbutcher

552 posts in 2313 days


10-16-2015 05:40 AM

Is it practical to drawbore a breadboard end? I’m thinking I can elongate the pin holes in the tenon or put thin wall holes either side of the drawbored hole in the tenon to allow for movement.

All hardwood, the Breadboard is 2 ½” x 4” x 24”, the tenon is 2” x 2” x 24”
Am I perfuming the pig?

-- Ken


5 replies so far

View SirIrb's profile

SirIrb

1239 posts in 694 days


#1 posted 10-16-2015 11:15 AM

Not a bad idea. I havent done it but I see no reason why it couldnt be done. The drawbore would give you the tight fit and would negate the use of glue except right at the very end of the install of the dowel. I would worry if the tongue was something like 1/4 or 1/2 thk. My fear would be that the drawing (1/32 or so) would split the grain so close to the end.

Look at it like this, if it goes wrong you can still back up and redo it, plugging the holes with faux dowels.

-- Don't blame me, I voted for no one.

View WoodNSawdust's profile

WoodNSawdust

1417 posts in 640 days


#2 posted 10-16-2015 12:18 PM

Should work. Another trick I do is to use a hand plane to shave a couple of thousandths off the bottom edge of the breadboard so that when the pins pull it tight against the table the top is tight.

-- "I love it when a plan comes together" John "Hannibal" Smith

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bondogaposis

4028 posts in 1814 days


#3 posted 10-16-2015 01:11 PM

It might work or if the pressure is too great might cause your breadboard to split between the draw bore holes. In a typical draw bored mortise and tenon joint, you would only have one draw bore per joint. On a breadboard end you would probably want 3 or more and that might cause a split that would run between the holes. I believe that is why you typically don’t see draw bored breadboard ends.

-- Bondo Gaposis

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SirIrb

1239 posts in 694 days


#4 posted 10-16-2015 01:16 PM

I agree with the below. But his joint appears to be quite hefty. There is a bit of assumption here but based on the dims he gave, it seems he will have an inch above and below the tenon (if I am imagining this right). If that is true i think he should do it right now and post pics.


It might work or if the pressure is too great might cause your breadboard to split between the draw bore holes. In a typical draw bored mortise and tenon joint, you would only have one draw bore per joint. On a breadboard end you would probably want 3 or more and that might cause a split that would run between the holes. I believe that is why you typically don t see draw bored breadboard ends.

- bondogaposis

-- Don't blame me, I voted for no one.

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newwoodbutcher

552 posts in 2313 days


#5 posted 10-16-2015 11:13 PM

Thank you all for your responses. So it sounds practical?

Just for clarity, the Ash tenon will be 2” x 2” x 24”. To me that’s beefy and strong. The breadboard is providing strength for the pressure created by a Benchcrafted Wagon Wheel Vice. I will have dovetails on the front and rear laminations into the ends of the Breadboard ends. I’m planning on gluing the front dovetails and locking the breadboard end nearest the vice with glue and draw bored pegs. Then around the middle of the breadboard and the other end, unglued pegs that go through elongated holes in the beefy tenon. The back lamination will attach to the breadboard end but not glued so they can slide in their sockets when the top expands

Still sound right?

-- Ken

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