Jet Xacta fence help needed.

Hi Doug:
I don’t have that fence but I can imagine it is a clone of the Biesmeyer.

Try this:
1 cut a strip of material against the fence and about 3 ” wide.
2. place it in the same position only reversed front to back.
If the fence is pinching the board as it enters the blade, you need to let the set screw move the fence away from the blade.
Just eyeball the change Doug don’t worry about physics. I

f it goes the wrong way move the screws the other way.
Never mind the physics jut look at the wood you just cut.

Now try to move it half the distance that it is binding.
Set the set screws and run the stick through again.

It should be just about parallel now.
If it is, put 3 small pieces of 20 lb bond paper between the stick and the fence at the trailing edge of the blade. Adjust until the paper fits between the blade and the stick .
You should have the fence pretty much set with a slight open end now toward the back of your saw.
When you move the fence to the blade it should just kiss the front of the blade and there should be a tiny gap ( 3 sheet of paper) on the back of the blade.

I showed you this method cause I don’t know waht measuring tools you have and this will pretty muchs work without anything special.

Cheers
Bob

-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner

Bob, what feeler gauge setting would you use? I could mike three sheets of paper, I suppose, but I’m lazy.

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

Doug:
I would use 3-5 thou at the blade to give you roughly 5-7 thou at the end of the fence.
Sorry I didn’t realize you had a feeler guage.

Bob

-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner

My Dad was a machinist for the Atchison,Topeka & Santa Fe Railway. If it’s a layout or measuring tool, I probably have it in as a L.S Starrett tool, but might not know how to use it. Pearls before swine… Thank you mightily Bob.
I’ll be paying it forward…

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

How can it be considered “Paying It Forward” if the action is in response to a service provided?

Ed

-- Come on in, the beer is cold and the wood is dry. www.crookedlittletree.com

“Pay it forward or paying it forward refers to repaying the good deeds one has received by doing good things for other unrelated people.”
Wikipedia

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

What happened to the woodworkers who were just here?

That slight gap at the back of the blade is critical to your sucess in ripping. If you find the fence locking lever isn’t locking the fence in place after making your adjustments, tighten both set screws equally, and repeat the spacer sequence.

Lee

-- by Lee A. Jesberger http://www.prowoodworkingtips.com http://www.ezee-feed.com

Thanks Lee. One of the pads on the springs that bear against the front fence rail came off, and since the repair I have never gotten it just right. Since then I have just cut a bit oversize and cleaned the edges off with a plane or scraper. But has been frustrating and I am hoping to tweak it back to snuff. I put a new Freud Fusion on the Visa card to see if it helped (some but not enough). I just don’t want to burn the coating off the right side of the new blade, and it would be nice for ripping to be fun again.

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

Doug,
As you know I have a Jet cabinet saw. I start by lining the fence up to the miter slot. That always seems to take care of the problem. Then create the gap at the back. But…... The fence might not be the problem. Check the tightness of the belts. I’m on my third set in 2 years. I finally switched to link belts and the burn problem solved it self. I just the other day ripped a piece of Oak the was almost too tall for the blade with no trouble. My problem was belt slippage.

-- Thos. Angle

Ooooh good call. I’ve had mine for 6 years and never changed out. I have a link belt hanging on a hook in the garage. Saw makeover in progress!

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

Gotta love this web site…

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

Speaking of the link belts… Do you guys know if they will work okay with saws with the multiple small v-groves rather than just one large one (like on a fan belt on an older car)? I have a Delta hybrid and was going to buy one and then remembered how the pulleys were set up. It seems there is potential for slippage there. This is the only saw I’ve owned so I don’t know if this is commonplace on most saws today.

I had my saw tuned really well but something has slipped somewhere and I’m getting a little burn again too…

-- Jeff, St. Paul, MN

Wayne, there used to be a song and saying “You’ve found a home in the Army.” Found one in the LJ army, that’s for sure. Now I have to launch my old butt out to the garage. Client wants oiled walnut with a smooth clear coat by the 31st, so three days drying before shellac bodying up and rub-out. Now I’m in the corner. But, that’s when I work best…

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

Shoot. I thought you were posting to report back on the staus of the project. Get to work trooper….

lol

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

Sir, Yes Sir.
Jeez, Wayne I don’t work as fast as Thos.

Toodles, gang. I’ll check back later…

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

Okay, burning is stopped, but I’m sure the trunnions will need to be adjusted. The blade isn’t parallel to the miter slots, and we ain’t talking thousands of an inch here.
The good news is the Freud Fusion is AWESOME. I’ve never used a Forrest WWII, but I am completely satisfied with this blade. Runs quiet, no chip out on crosscuts at all. No more taping the edges with plastic packing tape prior to cross cutting panels.

If anyone here has used the PALS system here I’d like to hear about it.

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

Sorry, No, get out the wrenches

-- Thos. Angle

Wrenches, we don’t need no stinking wrenches. Well probably we do. I’m posting a skills forum on the trunnions.
Thanks, Thomas.

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

Doug, i ran across this while searching for info to stop my fence from moving.

I’ll be positing a blog on the saw re-do. You just can not put things back where they were and believe that things will work like they did before.

I borrowed a friends Aline-It tool because I was getting burn marks on the wood. (I remember your original post about the PALS system.) A guy in my woodworking group bought one for his saw and loves it. In any case, my blade was only 3/1000ths inch to the left at the back and I’ve adjusted the fence to 3/100ths to the right at the back so I have no pinching. (A ls Bob#2)

Back when I tool a week long class with Ian Kirby he said any part of the fence past the back of the blade is useless.

My problem is that I can not now get the fence to lock in place.

Lee

-- No piece is cut too short. It was meant for a smaller project.

Lee,
Odd that you should send this today. GaryK just sent me an PM last night, inquiring whether I was still encountering saw difficulties. I have the PALS kit on the bench in the mud room waiting to get my dead butt out in the shop, and into the soup of fixing this once and for all. While ToddC was here for his stop-over we did an impromptu check with a square riding the miter slot, and sure enough I’m heeled in at the back of the blade by a full 1/16th or more. Ripping has been a ”push and duck” exercise since this occurred. No fun. Perhaps this is an instance of the LJ universe aligning to declare “today is the day” to get on the insulated coveralls and fix this damnable thing once and for-all.

While attempting to set the fence parallel to this misalignment to ameliorate the difficulty, I have fiddled with this incessantly. Try tightening the two set screws a small but identical amount on both sides of the fence. Also check to be sure the HDPE pad on the lever that contacts the front rail is still in place. Once again the 5¢ widget may be the thing that has brought down the $300 dollar fence system. I had to replace this once as the adhesive holding this in place had allowed slippage, and the fence would not lock down. Although long out of warranty, my reseller acknowledged that this was a “known issue” with the Xacta system and they (Midwest Woodworkers of Omaha Nebraska – home of the “Wood is Good” line of carver’s mallets and carving kits) supplied me with a free replacement part.

Good to see that you have withstood the Atlanta tornado without serious damage.

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

Better git them overalls on!

-- Dorje (pronounced "door-jay"), Seattle, WA

<vbg>

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

I checked with Woodcraft. They do not carry little replacement stuff.

It’s a call to Jet on Monday.
I figured that I can put a clamp next to the slide and make do until the part gets here.

Lee

-- No piece is cut too short. It was meant for a smaller project.