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How do I eliminate snipe from my Delta 22-580 planer

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Forum topic by Praki posted 12-06-2009 05:27 AM 6642 views 1 time favorited 32 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Praki

196 posts in 2650 days


12-06-2009 05:27 AM

Topic tags/keywords: planer question milling

Greetings,

A lot of people seem to get snipe from their planers and I really don’t want to ask this question. However, all my attempts to eliminate snipe from my planer have come to naught. I am pretty desperate now and hope there is an LJ who has solved this issue with his/her planer.

My planer (Delta 22-580) is pretty new and very lightly used. It does a super job of planing but also leaves a two-inch long snipe at in-feed and out-feed. I haven’t measured it with calipers but it is readily visible to the eye. I really don’t want to cut off 4 inches from my boards and don’t want to lengthen the board by attaching scrap wood the sides. I have read some claims that the 22-580 works perfectly with no detectable snipe. I would love to get my planer to work like that!

Here are all the things I have tried (my test piece is a 2×4 white pine pice, 18 inches long).

1. Adjusted the in-feed and out-feed tables to be level. Didn’t help.
2. Raised the in-feed and out-feed table edges to be 1/8 inch above the planer bed. Helped a little bit.
3. Raised the stock on entry a little bit and supported the stick at exit. This helped but wasn’t always reliable.
4. Fixed a 4 feet long bed to the planer. Stock is now completely supported on level surface at all times. With this, the snipe at exit is gone but the snipe at entry still persists.
5. Measured the height of the blades and the rollers. The rollers are supposed to be 1/50th of an inch lower than the blade. The out-feed roller seems to be adjusted but the in-feed isn’t! I would estimate it to be 1/16 of an inch lower than the blade.

Here is where I am puzzled. The Delta manual talks about out-feed roller adjustments only! There seems to be nothing that can be adjusted at the in-feed side. How weird is that! In my Utopian vision of planers, I stick in lumber at in-feed and get a beautifully planed lumber at out-feed.

How do I get there? Is there any 22-580 owner who has some clever adjustment tricks? Any hints, tips and thoughts greatly appreciated!

-- Praki, Aspiring Woodworker


32 replies so far

View lilredweldingrod's profile

lilredweldingrod

2495 posts in 1760 days


#1 posted 12-06-2009 05:43 AM

Praki,
I have the same problem with my Grizzly. When I talked to them, basiclly, it seems to be the nature of the beast.
Just today, I was reading thru some older wood mags and another woodworker suggested using carpet tape and attaching 4 strips of wood to each corner on the sides that extend about 4 inched past each end of the board. I haven’t tried this yet, but I will in the morning.
I think the snipe is caused by the drive rollers dropping off the trailing end and the lead side roller waiting for the board to be pushed thru.
Rand

View bruc101's profile

bruc101

568 posts in 2195 days


#2 posted 12-06-2009 06:06 AM

I’ve never had a planer that wouldn’t snipe. One thing I do sometimes is feed the board in at an angle and then pull it straight. Just before the board comes out of the planer I lift it up just a small amount and that stops a lot of the snipe if not all of it…sometimes.

-- Bruce http://plans.sawmillvalley.org http://www.sawmillgirls.com

View skidiot's profile

skidiot

50 posts in 2298 days


#3 posted 12-06-2009 06:10 AM

From what i understand the main problem is the cutter head will move up when the wood rides up on the 2nd set of rollers. Some of the newer planers have a “head lock” to help prevent this. I fashioned my own head lock on my Delta planer and it helps a bit but is kind awkward to use. The only technique I found that works is to run a peice of scrap through first then your workpiece next making sure they are touching nose to tail then another scrap after the workpiece again touching. That way it acts like a longer peice with the snipe being on the scraps you dont want. Also if you are planing a group of peices run them through nose to tail, then only the front of the 1st and the tail of the last peice will have snipe.

-- skidiot northern illinois

View LesB's profile

LesB

1066 posts in 2097 days


#4 posted 12-06-2009 06:10 AM

Rand answered the question pretty well.
you just have to keep the rollers from tipping the board as it enters and exits the planer.
Making shallower cuts on your last passes may help and carefully supporting the board as it enters and exits will reduce the problem.

-- Les B, Oregon

View BlankMan's profile

BlankMan

1487 posts in 2007 days


#5 posted 12-06-2009 07:50 PM

I had the same problem with my Delta 22-540 planer on both ends of the board, about ~2” or so worth. What I did was after planing was take the last cut on the jointer but that only worked for boards under 8”. Or run it through my drum sander to remove it for wider boards. Or cut the snipe off which I hated to do because of the waste.

This was one of the reasons I replaced that jointer and got the DeWalt DW735, no snipe with it and a really smooth finish as compared to the Delta.

My outfeed table for the planer is my bench so I have about 7-1/2 ft of outfeed table, but I had this for the Delta too, actually 8+ ft for that one because the DeWalt is bigger.

-- -Curt, Milwaukee, WI

View Praki's profile

Praki

196 posts in 2650 days


#6 posted 12-07-2009 04:00 AM

Thanks for all your suggestions!

I should have mentioned that I do use the cutterhead lock. I also resort to attaching scrap wood at the ends to trick the snipe devil! Since there are many who claim that their 22-580 is snipe-free and many the contrary, I was hoping it was some clever adjustment or alignment that was needed on my planer. Well, seems like it’s back to the workarounds :(

-- Praki, Aspiring Woodworker

View bigike's profile

bigike

4031 posts in 1942 days


#7 posted 12-07-2009 04:24 AM

all u have to do is lift the infeed and out feed tables a little, put a straight edge across the tables and with the screws adjust so theres at least 1/8” under the part close to the machine itself then try if still sniping put it up more. the problem is the wood weighs down the table so there for the first and last part of the wood hits the blades before the rest of it try and keep us posted? had the same problem with my ridged went to finewoodworking.com and got the answer my delta didn’t have that problem for some reason then i sold it like an ediot cuz i wanted a new looking planner so i had to adj.the tables myself.

-- Ike, Big Daddies Woodshop, http://www.icombadaniels@yahoo.com

View matt garcia's profile

matt garcia

1830 posts in 2325 days


#8 posted 12-07-2009 05:07 AM

I have that very same planer, and I’ve discovered if you flatten one side of the board on the jointer first, then run the other side through the planer, there is no snipe. That is my solution that works for me. The only problem with that is that I only have an 8” jointer, so anything wider is going to have snipe.

-- Matt Garcia Wannabe Period Furniture Maker, Houston TX

View tvrgeek's profile

tvrgeek

23 posts in 303 days


#9 posted 11-19-2013 10:46 PM

Too many postings on this subject and never the root cause or solution. Here it is:
Even if your lead screws are snug, everything tight and you feed nice and flat, you get as much as .0025” snipe or more. Why? Because the head rocks. Sloppy tolerance and a poor design.

Easy fix. Take the top and sides off. Order some 25/32 double split collars and slide one on each post. When you get to that last precise run, snug them down against the head casting and your snipe will be about .0008”. Not bad for a $60 used planer. Cut the sides down and attach them to the head. I am sure a bit of fancy machine work on some aluminum bar stock could make a more convenient fix, but this is cheap and easy. ( being really cheap, I bought 3/4 inch collars from a surplus supply and honed them larger to fit. )

View mporter's profile

mporter

237 posts in 1231 days


#10 posted 11-19-2013 11:05 PM

tvrgeek- less than 1/32 inch snipe! OMG how could we ever live with that?

Here is an idea. Just lift up on the board when it feeds into the planner and when it leaves the planner bed. Snipe eliminated- It’s a miracle!

View tvrgeek's profile

tvrgeek

23 posts in 303 days


#11 posted 11-20-2013 12:23 AM

Tried that. It helped a little, but no where near good enough. Head still rocks. Less than a thou snipe, yea, I can live with that. You can still feel it with your finger, but the first light cleanup with 320 grit and it is gone. I have not tried cleanup with only a scraper as my rather specialized projects lend themselves to sanding.

I also use a 1/2 inch aluminum plate 3 feet long as the feed/outfeed table. It does not flex. Not a budget mod unless you happen to have some scrap old tape drive “white plates” sitting around.

Someday I will be able to afford a big iron job, but for now, at least I don’t have to chop off 3 inches off every board end. On to my router table lift problems. The Rigid router moves when you clamp it after adjustment. A $400 lift is not in the future. Time to think it out

View Dallas's profile

Dallas

2906 posts in 1141 days


#12 posted 11-20-2013 12:59 AM

Funny that no one posted that the 22-580 has a lock function. Once you lock the springs the snipe is gone.

22-580 has a lot of other problems, but snipe is the least of them.

-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!

View Praki's profile

Praki

196 posts in 2650 days


#13 posted 11-20-2013 01:20 AM

tvrgeek – I don’t quite understand your mod. Can you post a couple of pictures or video, if possible?

Dallas – I have tried the lock function on mine and still see significant snipe. I wouldn’t be surprised if lock function has some variability from one planer to another. My technique to avoid snipe has been to attach runner strips that extend beyond the board by 4-5 inches and avoid using the planer altogether!

-- Praki, Aspiring Woodworker

View pmayer's profile

pmayer

573 posts in 1719 days


#14 posted 11-20-2013 03:16 AM

I agree with what Matt said. In general this will greatly reduce snipe on a planer. for boards that are larger than your jointer’s capacity, grab a pair of shooting boards and a hand plane and get it flat on one side. Doesn’t have to be pretty because you will run both sides through the jointer. It’s tough to get boards pretty with a hand plane, but really simple to get them flat.

Having said all that, I am quite surprised that people are having snipe problems with that planer. I had that model for before I upgraded to a stationary planer, and I didn’t have a snipe problem at all. The only thing that would get sniped by that machine was a badly twisted board. Everything else was remarkably flat. I love having the increased power and capacity of a stationary planer but even though I have tuned most of the snipe out of my new planer through roller pressure adjustments I miss the snipe free perfection of my old planer.

-- PaulMayer, http://www.vernswoodgoods.com

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

3360 posts in 1467 days


#15 posted 11-20-2013 06:12 AM

I agree that proper jointing first can help.

Try raising the far edges of the infeed / outfeed tables a bit more.
Also use roller supports for boards longer than 4’.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

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