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mortising bit for my router

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Forum topic by Pabs posted 12-04-2009 04:01 PM 1253 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Pabs

196 posts in 2921 days


12-04-2009 04:01 PM

hey all

in the process of doing 4 doors for some cabinets and want to use my router to make the mortises. in the past I’ve done them using a drill press but not crazy on the accuracy…

for the router, what bit is the best for making mortises? my stock is 2 inches wide so I figure my tenon should be at least 1 inch deep.

I have a 1/4 straight bit . I used the cut the dados on the stock last night but it won`t go as deep as 1 inch… well, unless I don`t insert all the way in the router collar… but that`s probably not a very good idea

so, what type of bit do you guys use?

thanks

Pabs

-- Pabs


9 replies so far

View Kent Shepherd's profile

Kent Shepherd

2718 posts in 2753 days


#1 posted 12-04-2009 05:16 PM

Use an up spirial bit. I know Freud makes them, as well as most bit manufacturers. They come in all sizes. The up spirial will pull the chips out of the mortise, making for a better, easier cut

-- http://shepherdtoolandsupply.com/

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patron

13538 posts in 2808 days


#2 posted 12-04-2009 05:17 PM

ditto to kent .

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

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Pabs

196 posts in 2921 days


#3 posted 12-04-2009 07:03 PM

just went to store and picked a bit…
now, silly question,... i’ve never used one of these before..how do these cut? if I need to make a mortise 1 inch deep , can i set up the bit at the full 1 inch mark and run my wood into it or do I need to it in incremental steps like a would when cutting with a regular router bit? and can you move sideways with it or is it intended purely for up and down action?

thanks

-- Pabs

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Kent Shepherd

2718 posts in 2753 days


#4 posted 12-04-2009 07:12 PM

Pabs, Cut incrementaly, just like you normally would. And yes, you can move sideways.

Good luck
Kent

-- http://shepherdtoolandsupply.com/

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Pabs

196 posts in 2921 days


#5 posted 12-04-2009 07:49 PM

hey Ken
are you saying incremental because of the sideways cut or for the up and down cut as well? when I’ve seen it done, it seems like they go all the way in…like you would a drill bit
for the side to side action I can see that you would need incremental steps but if I’m using it as a drill bit I would think I could go the full depth no?

I thought I could make a series of plunges and once and then clean side to side (same as you would with a drill press) trying to see why this would be different??

confused…...
Pabs

-- Pabs

View Rick  Dennington's profile

Rick Dennington

5183 posts in 2661 days


#6 posted 12-04-2009 09:14 PM

Ok—I’ll try to help, if I can.
First—do you know how to set the depth-stop on your router? If so, we’ll proceed. If not, I’ll tell you. Don’t know what kind of router you have, but they are all basically the same when setting the stop. Chuck up your bit in the collet. You have 2 knobs(yours may have 1), loosen the knobs. There’s a bar behind the knobs with numbers on it, and down at the bottom of the bar you’ll see the stops. They are staggered for different sizes.
Pick the one you want(I always use the shorest one), run the bar all the way down til it hits the stop. Did you lock down the depth handle on the back? if you did, release the handle and the router will raise back up, cause it’s spring-loaded. Now you have the depth set to cut the depth of the mortise. Draw out your mortise length and width. You might want to add an extra board or two(the same height as the one your cutting) for extra support for the router to keep it from tipping. Bring the bit down til it touches the wood, plunge in about an 1/16—1/8”, lock the router, and make the cut til you get to the other end. Release the handle, the bit will raise up, go back to the beginning cut, plunge down a little deeper, and do the same thing over and over til you get to the depth of the mortise you want. You can’t go any deeper that what you set the depth stop. If you set it at 1”, that’s how deep it will cut. Just repeat over and over and over til you got all the mortises cut. Just go nice and slow, and take your time. Waaa laaa—-you’re done. Hope this has helped. Just ask if you need further help. Keep oin keeping on.

-- At my age, an "all--nighter" is not having to get up and pee...!!!

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Kent Shepherd

2718 posts in 2753 days


#7 posted 12-04-2009 11:27 PM

Sorry for the confusion. A lot of guys plunge all the way on both ends of the mortise, like you are saying—-like a drill. Then you can then go side to side. That I would take off in small amounts. It doesn’t put as much strain on the bit or router. If you try to go side to side full depth, you are likely to break the bit. I’m not sure that what you’re saying about a series of plunges would be a bad thing. I guess I would do it the other way.
Often there are several methods to get the same result. If I were you I would experiment to find the way you like best.
I hope this clarified somewhat—-My wife doesn’t understand me either. LOL

Kent

-- http://shepherdtoolandsupply.com/

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Pabs

196 posts in 2921 days


#8 posted 12-05-2009 02:04 AM

hey Kent (sorry I called you KEn in my last post!)

no.I would never try and go though 1 inch of wood side to side… I can just hear the motor screaming now….
I meant doing a series of plunges (full depth) each next to the other … form one end to the next… once that;s done you would be left with ridges were the holes meet.. this would be nothing for the router to clean up

and Rick…yup I know where my stops are :)
I’m using mine (a triton) as a table mounted router right now I won’t be plunging the router into the wood

Pablo

-- Pabs

View SEE's profile

SEE

119 posts in 2634 days


#9 posted 12-06-2009 02:38 AM

Incremental cuts. If you’re not satisfied with the bit that you got this time, I recommend Whiteside solid carbide spiral bits. As someone else suggested, the upcut bit will remove the waste better. However, if you’re ever making a mortise, a dado, a plough cut that will have visible edges, the down cut bit will leave no tear out on the edges of the cut.

I buy mine from holbren.com . They’re good people to deal with. The Whiteside bits ain’t cheap, but they are very durable.

-- Build for the joy of it!

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