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Help, How do I remove a stripped bolt???

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Forum topic by Fireguy posted 12-03-2009 02:13 PM 3225 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Fireguy

132 posts in 2703 days


12-03-2009 02:13 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question tip

I have a big problem at the moment and I a willing to bet someone here has an idea that will help me out.

I was changing blades on my planner a I has several button head bolts that the Allen wrench hole stripped out on (very soft). I purchased a Grip-it screw extractor to remove the bolts and it worked great until the last one (of course) and the screw extractor broke off in the head of the bolt. I is about flush with the top of the bolt head, so no was to get a vise grips on it, and is very hard, i tried to drill it out but all the drill dose is makes it shinny.

Anyone have and idea on how to get this out??? Please help.

-- Alex


15 replies so far

View papadan's profile

papadan

1182 posts in 2835 days


#1 posted 12-03-2009 02:27 PM

CAREFULLY! use a dremel to cut flat sides on the bolt head. Then grab with a sharp edge pair of vice grips.

-- Carpenter assembles with hands, Designer builds with brains, Artist creates with heart!

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jim C

1467 posts in 2565 days


#2 posted 12-03-2009 02:33 PM

Is it possible to Dremel grind 2 flats on the buttonhead to simulate a bolt head?
This way you could size the opposing flats to a wrench size or use vise grips to grab it.
Another way we used to loosen torqued bolts was to take a center punch, hold it on an angle and create a divot in the buttonhead for the centerpunch point. Then hammer it counterclockwise to break it loose.
If no luck, where are you located? I’m in Illinois just south of the WI border, and I can probably get it out for you.
I was in Tool & Die metalworking all of my life.

Jim Ceriale

-- When I was a boy, I was told "anyone can be President", now I'm beginning to believe it!

View Fireguy's profile

Fireguy

132 posts in 2703 days


#3 posted 12-03-2009 03:46 PM

I was thinking of using a dremel after the original post, but if didn’t think of the flats to put a wrench on, I will see if there is room, otherwise maybe I can grind a slot in the center for a large screw driver and at least break the head off, once the head is off the stud should not be a problem.

Thanks for the offer Jim, I am between Jainsville and Madison, if i dont get it soon I may need to ensilst your help.

This is one of the things I love about this site.

-- Alex

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Karson

35035 posts in 3868 days


#4 posted 12-03-2009 03:49 PM

I was going to suggest the slot idea using a dremel grinding blade. I’m glad that you though of that.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Southern Delaware soon moving to Virginia karsonwm@gmail.com †

View RetiredCoastie's profile

RetiredCoastie

999 posts in 2650 days


#5 posted 12-03-2009 05:21 PM

A diamond drill bit is the best way to drill out the extractor and then if you still cant get the bolt out, then drill out the bolt and put in a helicoil or go to the next size bolt and tap new threads. Helicoil kits can be purchased at any automotive parts stores.

In some cases I have used a 3x rivet gun to shatter the extractor but you have to be able to hit dead on the extractor.

-- www.thepatriotwoodworker.com Proud Supporter of Homes For Our Troops

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jim C

1467 posts in 2565 days


#6 posted 12-03-2009 07:58 PM

I would use the center- punch/hammer method first to “shock” the threads, and then the “Dremeled” flats and wrench/visegrips to turn it out.
I’ve never seen a diamond or carbide drill be successful getting an extractor out. It’s to hard, brittle and uneven.
If you break the head clean off, you will be able to drilll the screw out using the original “root” (minor diameter drill) and clean/retap it with the original tap. No need for Helicoils or oversize tap/bolt.

-- When I was a boy, I was told "anyone can be President", now I'm beginning to believe it!

View Cosmicsniper's profile

Cosmicsniper

2202 posts in 2626 days


#7 posted 12-03-2009 08:23 PM

I have always dremel-ed it with a straight slot in those applications…100% success rate.

Edit: didn’t read the part about the extractor, so I doubt you could dremel through it. I’d try to flat two edges.

-- jay, www.allaboutastro.com

View reggiek's profile

reggiek

2240 posts in 2737 days


#8 posted 12-03-2009 09:31 PM

I have also had great luck using ice on the metal around the bolt (err…also on it) (I have also heard of using one of those wart freezer cans also) so that the surrounding metal contracts (sometimes it helps to use some liquid wrench to loosen some of the electrolysis)...do that prior to turning (after you have dremeled or slotted). That way you might get the whole thing to come out.

-- Woodworking.....My small slice of heaven!

View RetiredCoastie's profile

RetiredCoastie

999 posts in 2650 days


#9 posted 12-03-2009 10:13 PM

I’ve used diamond bits on easyouts that have broken of in aircraft engine hardware and never had a problem. You have to go slow. If you get the broken extractor out and still can’t get the bolt out DON’T use the cheap skinny spiral or square extractors , SNAP ON tools has very good extractors that run about $25.00 depending on the size you need. A very small price to pay. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools.asp?tool=all&Group_ID=1262&store=snapon-store

-- www.thepatriotwoodworker.com Proud Supporter of Homes For Our Troops

View bigike's profile

bigike

4051 posts in 2755 days


#10 posted 12-04-2009 12:30 AM

if its the delta planner what i did was hard but it worked like a charm all i did was file the edges of the screw flat where i can put a pair of vise grips on there this worked then i bought some scres from the hardware store that u have to use a wrench to get off they also worked like a charm then i sold the darn thing and bought a ridged planner now i get some snipe so i raised the ends of the in/out feed tables and its all good but now i need a drum sander cuz i want to plane down alot of small stock well i guess one problem solved and another one arises. lol ;-)

-- Ike, Big Daddies Woodshop, http://www.icombadaniels@yahoo.com

View Fireguy's profile

Fireguy

132 posts in 2703 days


#11 posted 12-04-2009 02:55 PM

Well i got it out. I tried to grind a slot but was unable to turn it with a screw driver so the slot got bigger and wider until the head was weak enough to break off. Once the head was braok off I pull the plate off and was able to turn the stud out with my fingers. This is one of the bolts on the end of the Ridgid planner that has the spring behind it so i am guessing that extra tension form the srings is why all the bolts on the ends where the biggest problem.

Thanks for all the help and sugestions.

-- Alex

View jim C's profile

jim C

1467 posts in 2565 days


#12 posted 12-04-2009 04:18 PM

Great,
I bet you slept better last night. HA!

-- When I was a boy, I was told "anyone can be President", now I'm beginning to believe it!

View lilredweldingrod's profile

lilredweldingrod

2495 posts in 2574 days


#13 posted 12-04-2009 09:03 PM

Jim, ever try left hand twist drills? I keep a set of Lawson’s on hand and they usualy heat the metal enough to start it backing out with out an extractor.

View reggiek's profile

reggiek

2240 posts in 2737 days


#14 posted 12-04-2009 09:12 PM

Glad you solved the problem…..this thread has a lot of good info for stuck bolts though now.

-- Woodworking.....My small slice of heaven!

View Fireguy's profile

Fireguy

132 posts in 2703 days


#15 posted 12-04-2009 09:22 PM

Yes I felt much better with it done, Now I can lay awake at night thinking about my projects instead of fixing my planner.

lol

-- Alex

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